my 90 project

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Devs93

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Just to give you an idea on my with 7 in drop I drove about 100+ miles each way with 2 fully loaded coolers an easy up tent a 6 person dome tent a couple chairs and other stuff I think I bottomed out twice and they were some ty ass roads
That I botomed out on
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bow61509

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ok thanks Dev it's not the amount of work or anything I'm just not sure I want it that low my blazer was only 2/2 and I was very pleased with it. I just wanna get rid of the work truck look

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sewlow

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4/6 on 15's

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4/6 on 20's

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2/4 on 15's

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2/4 on 20's

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And my sig is 4/7 on 20's.

My opinion, just from owning trucks with both drops, is go 4/6! I wish that I had done that first to my '97 (the blue one). The only reason that I haven't is because of time constraints, & for the fact that I am not looking forward to re-doing the front spring hangers. A major PITA!!! When it does get the 4/6, I will be cutting the front coils, due to the increased spring rate. 2/4 is not enough! You'll want to go lower after 1 season. Really! You will!

One other thing, though. On a 4/6, I recommend a small bed crossmember notch.
 

bow61509

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I really appreciate all the input fellas but I think I'm gonna go ahead with a 2/4 .... two reasons 1 I'm really not going for low just a better stance and 2 I assume if a four six needs a notch then at least a small piece of the frame needs to be cut to allow for the notch, unfortunately I don't have the tools to do that plus I don't have slot of dough and the 2/4 seems to be a cheaper route. but on another note I plan on painting the truck but not for some time so it's gonna stay in primer for a while, I'm gonna paint my steelies this weekend what do you think would look good with the gray primer red or black

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2003Xtreme

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I have NEVER bottomed out on a 4/6 and roads are not that great here where I llive either. I have the bolt in notch too, but to me a 2" drop in the rear is hardly even noticeable. IMO.. lol
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4wd stance lol
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That is a 2/6
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AND 4/6 again... lol I am trying to sway you towards the 4/6 lol.
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Here is the bolt in notch.. Very easy to do.

I have not looked at what ebay posting you had or the price, but here it is like 200 bucks to do a flip kit which IMO is cheap! lol
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/lowering_flip_kits_by_djm/3339.aspx#
 

bow61509

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ok if it's easier than I'm all in on the six but how does the notch work I understand it bolts to the frame. but then you have to remove that little section where the actually notch is correct? and what's the best way of doing So I because like I said I have no way to cut anything

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Devs93

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after you flip the rear cent the notch over the axle and mark the area to cut I used a cut off wheel and sawzall then after its cut I stuck the notch back back up marked the holes. I then used a small stepper bit and drilled the holes bolted em in place......I add some welds but not necesarry Ima regret it I think when I put in step notches. To flip the rear I put jack stand under the shackles cut the old u bolts off the rear undid the driveshfat and pulled the leaf packs. I kept a floor jack under the rear the whole time the when I pulled the leave I swapped in from over the leaf to under bolted em back in thats were the jack come in real handy. after I got the leafs swapped I put the new hardware for the axle on tightened eveything up and put the drive shaft back in
 

Pierced

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4/8 on 255/70/15s

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bow61509

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alright I'm all in on the 4/6 you guys have convinced me. when doing the rear will I have to adjust the pinion angle on a flip?

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