My '94 Suburban was not originally equipped with power windows, or locks. It was a cheyenne model. I used all (mostly) the OEM parts to do this conversion. I could have gone aftermaket, but I like OE. Since it is basically plug and play, I'll hit the highlights, and show what's involved with getting the components and wiring into an Suburban/crewcab.
To install the factory window/lock harness, the dash has to come out so,
The factory GM harness. This is a '95 harness. '95 and up uses positive trigger lock, and unlock. 88-94's are reverse polarity system with no relay.
The harness runs across the firewall, at the base of the windshield.I have heard of some doing this conversion without removing the dash, and running the harness with the main dash harness.
...And runs down into the a pillar cavity.
The lock relay clips into a hole on the right of the column support.
The window relay clips on to the left side of the column support.
Left side harness plugs into door harness in the kick panel/A pillar.
And the right...
The harness plugs into the convienence center/junction block on the left side firewall. all terminals on it are marked "pnk" "wht" "gry" "blk" "grn" etc. and refer to the color of the connector ends, not the wire color. It took me a few tries to get them plugged into the correct switched/unswitched terminals, a multimeter, or power probe helps here.
For anyone attempting this, I reccomend plugging the components in at this point and testing functionality.
These are handy. If you do any glass/window regulator work, I reccomend getting some of these window holders.
Original manual door card, drill out the rivets holding the regulator to the inner door. Not fun!
stripped out...
I used these Electric life power convesion regulators in the ront. They bolt right into the factory holes. In this case, I spliced the electric life motor harness to the original harness.
The door lock actuators are mounted on the inner door behind the outside door handle (the mounting holes are already there). the post to connect the actuator to is on the lock rod of all trucks, even if it does not have power locks, this is the best way I could get a pic of it. These are tough to mount, access, and connect the harness to.
The power unit in the door.
On to the rear...
Harness clips into the B pillar.
The original rear setup.
To remove rear regulator, take out the 2 10mm bolts in the window guide,and separate it from the glass.
As with the front, drill out the factory rivets and remove manual regulator,
The rear uses different mounting holes for the power regulator, but they are punched out from the factory.
Here's the rear door lock actuator, again, right behind the outside door handle.
As viewed through the door handle hole.
To install the factory window/lock harness, the dash has to come out so,
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The factory GM harness. This is a '95 harness. '95 and up uses positive trigger lock, and unlock. 88-94's are reverse polarity system with no relay.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
The harness runs across the firewall, at the base of the windshield.I have heard of some doing this conversion without removing the dash, and running the harness with the main dash harness.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
...And runs down into the a pillar cavity.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
The lock relay clips into a hole on the right of the column support.
You must be registered for see images attach
The window relay clips on to the left side of the column support.
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Left side harness plugs into door harness in the kick panel/A pillar.
You must be registered for see images attach
And the right...
You must be registered for see images attach
The harness plugs into the convienence center/junction block on the left side firewall. all terminals on it are marked "pnk" "wht" "gry" "blk" "grn" etc. and refer to the color of the connector ends, not the wire color. It took me a few tries to get them plugged into the correct switched/unswitched terminals, a multimeter, or power probe helps here.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
For anyone attempting this, I reccomend plugging the components in at this point and testing functionality.
You must be registered for see images attach
These are handy. If you do any glass/window regulator work, I reccomend getting some of these window holders.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Original manual door card, drill out the rivets holding the regulator to the inner door. Not fun!
You must be registered for see images attach
stripped out...
You must be registered for see images attach
I used these Electric life power convesion regulators in the ront. They bolt right into the factory holes. In this case, I spliced the electric life motor harness to the original harness.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
The door lock actuators are mounted on the inner door behind the outside door handle (the mounting holes are already there). the post to connect the actuator to is on the lock rod of all trucks, even if it does not have power locks, this is the best way I could get a pic of it. These are tough to mount, access, and connect the harness to.
You must be registered for see images attach
The power unit in the door.
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You must be registered for see images attach
On to the rear...
Harness clips into the B pillar.
You must be registered for see images attach
The original rear setup.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
To remove rear regulator, take out the 2 10mm bolts in the window guide,and separate it from the glass.
You must be registered for see images
[/IMG]As with the front, drill out the factory rivets and remove manual regulator,
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The rear uses different mounting holes for the power regulator, but they are punched out from the factory.
You must be registered for see images attach
Here's the rear door lock actuator, again, right behind the outside door handle.
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As viewed through the door handle hole.
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You must be registered for see images attach
Last edited: