"Lt. Dan" - 1989 C1500 Regular Cab SWB NASCAR tribute and Autocross Build

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BubbaGump

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Well, well. Had some failures and successes. And I definitely figured out how NOT to remove leaf spring bushings. So after getting some more drill bits, I still couldn't get the dang center metal sleeve of the bushing out. Stupid me decided to just air hammer the sucker out. Took about an hour of cussin' and mangling air hammer bits, but it finally came out.
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That was the WRONG way to remove a bushing. Here's the right way:

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That's a 1-1/2" hole saw I picked up at Lowe's last night. Make sure you get the right kind; I had some cheap ones that were too shallow to cut halfway through the bushing.

The goal is to cut out the rubber between the inner and out sleeves, and that, combined with the heating up of the rubber as you drill, make them easy to push out. Make sure you have a big enough drill to run the hole saw, though. I tried four total.

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First I tried the little cordless drill. It straight up said "aw, hell no" and didn't work at all. Next, the black Skil brand tried, but after 30 seconds or so got hot and was about to let the smoke out. The red one has an overrun clutch and it sounded like it had Tourette's. So I broke out the big boy - my 1/2" drive 3 in one rotary hammer drill, aka "arm breaker." I put it in "drill only" mode and went to work. You gotta hold on tight to that sucker or it'll turn your elbow inside out. I had all 5 remaining bushing cores drilled out in 10 minutes, and that's with fighting the shackles trying to get them to stay still (I don't have my vise mounted to my new work bench yet. After that, I took the air hammer, put in the pointed bit, and started pounding out the sleeves. I put the point right in the little gap where the leaf spring curls around and touches itself. All three split along the factory weld line and dropped out.

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Easy peasy, lemon squeezy. The first bushing (doing it the wrong way) took over an hour by itself. I went out to work on the other five at about 4:15, and by 5pm I was back in the house, in my underwear in the recliner drinking a cold one.

Definitely the way to go!
 

BubbaGump

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Trying to get everything ready for installing the lowering kit. I spent most of my time today with a cup brush on the grinder knocking the surface rust off the frame rails, crossmembers, and leaf springs. I watched a video made by a leaf spring manufacturer, and he said that you should not disassemble leaf springs to paint them, and he didn't like the idea of powdercoating them because of the heat involved. He said to simply shoot a coat of high temp engine paint on the assembled springs, so that's what I did. They turned out pretty nice.

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I also painted the frame rails and crossmembers with a rustoleum "hammered" paint that can be applied right over rust. It also has a neat hammered texture that hides lots of surface imperfections. Don't bust my chops too much, but I chose gold for the color. The frame rails will be gold and the rear end will be silver. Who knows? I may change my mind on that later, but here it is.

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What do you guys think, yay or nay on the gold framerails?
 

BubbaGump

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Oh, and if you are going to use a cup brush to remove rust, PLEASE wear a face shield. I had several significant impacts from rust scale and wire fragments from the brush. If I hadn't had a face shield, I may have had to take a trip to the ER or eye doctor.
 
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BubbaGump

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Put on the flip kit and C notch today. Didn't take many pictures during the process because I accidentally smashed my phone's camera lens Friday. My wife let me borrow hers to take these pictures.

I got the polyurethane bushings installed.

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The flip kit went in fine except there were no instructions. A little internet research answered my questions and the kit went in pretty well after that. The u bolts were generic and WAY too long, so I ran the nuts on as far as my impact socket could reach, then I cut off the extra length with a cutoff wheel and ran the nuts down the rest of the way.

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I made a template in cardboard and used it to mark where I needed to cut for the c notch, then used the cutoff wheel to cut the frame. I then clamped the notch in place and chucked up the 1/2" drill bit in my big ole drill. I drilled just enough to get the center of the holes marked. I then used a series of smaller drill bits to drill the holes. I stepped up a size at a time and finally had them all drilled to 1/2". Way easier than trying to do it all with just the 1/2" bit, in my opinion. Dropped in all the bolts and cinched them down with the impact.

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The one big disappointment in the chassis tech kit was the bumpstops. I snugged them down in place and they just crumbled. JUNK!

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I kinda thought I was going to have trouble with them even before I installed them. They felt like they were a weird combo of plastic and rubber, kind of a cheap polyurethane. I'll just use some 1/2" thick rubber belting that I have and will glue it in place inside the c notch.

Next I'll move on to the front, but for now this is how he sits.

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Keepinitoldskool

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Those leaf spring vushings are easier to torch. I usually juat burn the old rubber away then clean up the metal sleeve.

Sounds like your vision and mine are the same for our trucks. I want to do a 4/6 drop with some fender flares and wide tires along with a set of sidepipes or cutouts in the bed sides just before the rear tires. Kinda going for that busch truck series look.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

BubbaGump

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Yep, pretty much the same idea.

I've already picked up a set of black D window wheels for the truck; got a set of 5 used ones for $125 total. Trying to decide what tires to go with, Hankook or Cooper Cobras.
 

un4givn85

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Subscribed, looks like this will be a great build. Can't wait to see the results.
 

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