L31MaxExpress
I'm Awesome
That seal has never been supplied seperate from the air hat. I have never seen a supplier sell one like it either. It is a rigid almost nylon like material.
LEAN on both banks
- Thread starter cadman777
- Start date
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That o-ring might not be available from GM, but I'll bet you can get it at a seal supplier or industrial supply store. Years ago I went looking for large metric o-rings for a rotary engine. We're talking about 4" diameter. I went to a local seal wholesaler with some of the o-rings I needed. They only had SAE o-rings, but they had a couple that matched up perfectly and a few that matched decently.
Right, it's a double-lip type seal made specifically for that application. I looked in my seal supplier cataloges for something similar but could not find one.
Right, I tried that.
It's not an o-ring, but a lip seal with a metal base and hard rubber coating.
UPDATE:
I replaced the spark plugs, replaced the O2 sensors, and replaced the oil pressure sensor.
The engine ran very much better, and it was dripping water out of the tail pipe with no sign of excess gas burning.
One notable is the oil sender has 3 pins, but someone busted off 2 of the pins and siliconed them.
The new sender shows 75 psi whereas the old leaking sender was showing 35 psi.
Have you ever seen that before?
My guess is the PCM is fried and they deleted the leads to the PCM but not to the IP gauge.
Didn't test it b/c didn't have enough time.
Anyway, it thew a P0154 code on B1S1 O2 sensor.
Have't had time to look up what could cause that code.
This vehicle would do much better with a carburetor!
These digital vehicles are a total waste of time and money!
As they age, they become an endless pit of electrical trouble.
So instead of mechanical obsolescence, they have been deliberately made to become electronically and electrically obsolete!
I replaced the spark plugs, replaced the O2 sensors, and replaced the oil pressure sensor.
The engine ran very much better, and it was dripping water out of the tail pipe with no sign of excess gas burning.
One notable is the oil sender has 3 pins, but someone busted off 2 of the pins and siliconed them.
The new sender shows 75 psi whereas the old leaking sender was showing 35 psi.
Have you ever seen that before?
My guess is the PCM is fried and they deleted the leads to the PCM but not to the IP gauge.
Didn't test it b/c didn't have enough time.
Anyway, it thew a P0154 code on B1S1 O2 sensor.
Have't had time to look up what could cause that code.
This vehicle would do much better with a carburetor!
These digital vehicles are a total waste of time and money!
As they age, they become an endless pit of electrical trouble.
So instead of mechanical obsolescence, they have been deliberately made to become electronically and electrically obsolete!
Excellent.
Normal in cold weather. Exhaust gas is largely made up of water vapor, which condenses into liquid water when it cools off in the cold exhaust system.
Morons.
More-or-less, yes. My gauge only goes to 60. Faulty sending units can show falsely-high, falsely-low, or randomly high/low.
The other two "leads" don't go to the PCM. They go between an electrical power supply and the fuel pump.
My source says B2S1. But I'm not using the official service manual, which YOU SHOULD.
Download the service manual set for your vehicle from the links in the Sticky threads section of this forum.
Define "better". They couldn't meet emissions with a carb, they couldn't meet fuel economy targets with a carb, they had problems getting proper driveability with a carb. The TBI probably cost less than a carb system.
Ehhh. Like folks have never had problems with carburetors, choke pulloffs, corroded carb castings or plugged passages. No one ever sunk a float.
About the same with mechanical spark advance vs. electronic advance.
IF (big IF) you're used to working on the electronic stuff, it's not tough to deal with. But if you're used to carbs, EFI and computer-control of fuel and spark is an incomprehensible nightmare.
Thanks for the input.
I'll look for the manual download.
Right, my error, it's B2S1 O2 sensor, same bank that was running lean and getting fuel dumped into it.
Right, condensate dripping out of the tail pipe is what I want to see (it's Florida, so no cold weather).
Why in the world would the oil pressure sender 2 leads go to the FUEL PUMP?
All the parts I installed are Genuine OEM AC-Delco.
Never saw a bad OEM AC-Delco part in all my years.
You really think the oil sender is bad?
I've worked on both (digital vs. analogue machines) for years.
I'll take mechanical any day of the week over electronic.
I also fix appliances, same thing.
There are limits to all digital machines, and the industry refuses to find those limits.
I agree, electronic ignition is far better than points.
Same with accessible and repairable ABS.
SRS...pros and cons, esp. for the elderly and children.
BCM, no need, as relays always worked good enough for any solution and were very easy to fix.
About the only thing I can say for digital machines at this stage of development, is that they are used to control US, to create monopolies on labor and capital, and to definitely NOT to make our lives easier. We used to call it 'planned obsolescence'.
Incidentally, like I said above, the FISH carb has a nearly identical fuel use curve to fuel injection.
It's got 1 moving part, and is extremely simple.
Big oil put him out of business.
If you knew the politics, you'd know what I'm talking about.
If my C230 MB ever craps out on me, I'm switching it over to a FISH.
Presently I'm struggling with a fuel level sender and their STUPIDLY designed saddle bag gas tank.
Took me a whole day of snooping around on the internet to find enough information to figure out how that IDIOTIC system works.
It's actually brilliant, except for when it does NOT work.
And now that it's failed internally, with ZERO ACCESS to the inners, I have to cut it open and fabricate the fix it myself.
Then poly-weld it shut again (it's a plastic tank). But if I decided to say 'F-it!' and put on a carb right now, that would end all troubles in one single bang. Anyway...no point in going that route just yet, b/c it runs like a ***** ape WHEN it's running.
Let me find that FSM and do the electrical tests and see what shakes out.
Meanwhile I need to do something about he EGR and cats.
Also, his tranny is f'd up.
Someone changed it for him and they hammered the big plug into the socket so I can't remove it.
Looks like it may not even be conducting signals!
WTF?!?
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Have you ever actually run a Reese-Fish carburetor?
No, not yet.
Have you?
No, but to me it seems like a replay of the Covey carburetor arguments. There were plenty of claims that it got 100 mpg, but when it came down to it, it gave about a 10% increase in gas mileage, killed horsepower, and the carburetor carboned up every few thousand miles and needed rebuilding.
From what I'm reading on the Fish, neither Reese nor Fish made mileage claims, and the people who actually ran them said they got a little bit better mileage. Then there are racers who claimed they got a bit more power. Reese got out of the carburetor business because he said he couldn't compete with electronic fuel injection. EFI is far more tunable.
It sounds like it might be a bit more tweakable than other carbs to either mileage or power, but I'd expect a learning curve. The TBI is a lot easier to fix if you get the tools to pull the data stream.
From what I'm reading on the Fish, neither Reese nor Fish made mileage claims, and the people who actually ran them said they got a little bit better mileage. Then there are racers who claimed they got a bit more power. Reese got out of the carburetor business because he said he couldn't compete with electronic fuel injection. EFI is far more tunable.
It sounds like it might be a bit more tweakable than other carbs to either mileage or power, but I'd expect a learning curve. The TBI is a lot easier to fix if you get the tools to pull the data stream.
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