Remember that some bolts are "standard" thread, and some bolts are Metric thread. There was a time when GM paid a little extra to put a blue-colored coating on the Metric bolts, but those days are long gone.
The worst thing you can do is to try to use a cheap-junk engine hoist. The "dirty little secrets" no one talks about with engine hoists are:
1. That "two ton" rating is with the boom as short as it can be set. But in actual use, you'll want it extended as far as it will go. Slid all the way out, it's a "500 lb" engine hoist, not a "2 ton" hoist. 500 lbs is BARELY enough to lift a small-block. If you leave the accessory bracket(s) on the front, with the PS, alternator, air pump, and NOT the A/C compressor, you'll have more than 500 lbs on the hook.
2. Cheap-junk hoists have a REALLY SHORT boom, so that they can advertise "2-ton" capacity when using a substandard, ultra-light-duty hydraulic ram, and thin sheet-metal structure. Even extended all the way, the damn boom is too short, which probably accounts for Elroy not being able to get the lump over the grille. A proper engine hoist will lift an engine two feet or more over the rad support.
When I'm preparing to lift an engine, I put jack stands under the FRONT AND REAR of the vehicle, so I have lots of room to work as I disconnect the engine mounts, transmission, exhaust, etc.
When actually lifting the engine, I drop the front end but leave the rear jacked-up, to tilt the front of the vehicle down.