How can I go lower?

[Richard Jones]

Ok so I'm that guy that has to learn the hard way haha. So I have a DJM 3/4 drop installed, I love it. But I'm considering going a different direction and was wondering how I can get to 4/6 basically...I am using 3" control arms for the front which are fine, but in the rear the shackles and hangers just aren't low enough. What's the best way to get a couple more inches lower in the rear?

 

[DaCoupe]

Flip kit and mini notch in the rear. That will give you the look you want in the back. For the front lowering coils.

 

[sewlow]

Before (or at the same time) you install the flip kit, you will have to re-install the original hangers & shackles. That'll give you the 6" drop. Otherwise, it's a 10" drop with those hangers & shackles you have now when combined with the flip kit!
Or you can keep the lowering shackles & move the spring to the other hole from where it is now. That will provide a 7" drop.
These trucks need a 3" difference front>rear to ride level.
For a 4" drop with those 3" control arms, cut 1/2 a coil off of the stock springs. 1 full coil cut cut = 2", so that 1/2 coil removed is an inch lower.
Cutting the coils increases the spring rate, but with just 1/2 a coil removed, you won't notice all that much of a difference in stiffness.
Waste of time & $$$ to buy 1" shorter springs.
This is my '98 @ 4/7. The sig pic is @ 4/6.

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[RichLo]

Yea, I'm a fan of cutting springs too, I've done it to a few cars in my life. never a gmt400 though, always had 4wd trucks.

Just be sure to use something that doesn't generate a whole lot of heat when doing it and take your time and let it cool off if you feel like its getting too hot. I used a cutoff wheel and took lots of short breaks to let it cool down. Cut like 1/4" or 1/8" then let it cool and repeat.

 

[Richard Jones]

Before (or at the same time) you install the flip kit, you will have to re-install the original hangers & shackles. That'll give you the 6" drop. Otherwise, it's a 10" drop with those hangers & shackles you have now when combined with the flip kit!
Or you can keep the lowering shackles & move the spring to the other hole from where it is now. That will provide a 7" drop.
These trucks need a 3" difference front>rear to ride level.
For a 4" drop with those 3" control arms, cut 1/2 a coil off of the stock springs. 1 full coil cut cut = 2", so that 1/2 coil removed is an inch lower.
Cutting the coils increases the spring rate, but with just 1/2 a coil removed, you won't notice all that much of a difference in stiffness.
Waste of time & $$$ to buy 1" shorter springs.
This is my '98 @ 4/7. The sig pic is @ 4/6.

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Thank you, I should've been more specific because this was my main concern, I don't have the stock ones any more so want sure how I could bring the rear down. I'd definitely be interested in moving the spring to achieve 7 I never knew that was possible...I'm gonna take a look at it after work today. And for the front cutting half a coil sounds like the best route and then I would be basically level at 4/7. Thanks a lot all of you guys, I appreciate it.

 

[Richard Jones]

Before (or at the same time) you install the flip kit, you will have to re-install the original hangers & shackles. That'll give you the 6" drop. Otherwise, it's a 10" drop with those hangers & shackles you have now when combined with the flip kit!
Or you can keep the lowering shackles & move the spring to the other hole from where it is now. That will provide a 7" drop.
These trucks need a 3" difference front>rear to ride level.
For a 4" drop with those 3" control arms, cut 1/2 a coil off of the stock springs. 1 full coil cut cut = 2", so that 1/2 coil removed is an inch lower.
Cutting the coils increases the spring rate, but with just 1/2 a coil removed, you won't notice all that much of a difference in stiffness.
Waste of time & $$$ to buy 1" shorter springs.
This is my '98 @ 4/7. The sig pic is @ 4/6.

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If I moved the spring to the other hole to achieve 7 wouldn't I still need to notch?

 

[someotherguy]

Any more rear drop than 4" and you really need to notch. Even with 4" you can hit if you load down heavy.

To drop more in the rear you will need those stock parts. It sucks. But it's also why I and many others will caution people wanting to do a 3/4 drop to go ahead and do a 4/6 or more because they're rarely happy with 3/4 for long, and then you have the hassle of digging up the stock parts to put it back to correct in order to do the flip kit.

Richard

 

[Richard Jones]

Any more rear drop than 4" and you really need to notch. Even with 4" you can hit if you load down heavy.

To drop more in the rear you will need those stock parts. It sucks. But it's also why I and many others will caution people wanting to do a 3/4 drop to go ahead and do a 4/6 or more because they're rarely happy with 3/4 for long, and then you have the hassle of digging up the stock parts to put it back to correct in order to do the flip kit.

Richard

I agree with you. I like how it sits with my current wheels but I'm getting 20" wheels and will definitely want it lower. I don't have the stock parts but I could get some I'm sure.

 

[sewlow]

Any more rear drop than 4" and you really need to notch. Even with 4" you can hit if you load down heavy.

To drop more in the rear you will need those stock parts. It sucks. But it's also why I and many others will caution people wanting to do a 3/4 drop to go ahead and do a 4/6 or more because they're rarely happy with 3/4 for long, and then you have the hassle of digging up the stock parts to put it back to correct in order to do the flip kit.

Richard

Which is exactly where I am now with my '97.
I already had my '98 @ 4/7 when I lowered the '97.
I figured that because the truck @ 4/7 was a snowplow in the winter, I wanted another vehicle I could drive in the winters here. But, damn it, the trucks too nice to be a winter beater!
I was warned by many here that I wouldn't be happy @ 2/4.
They were right.
...and... I didn't keep the original hangers! Doh!
Been considering some SUV hangers to get to a 2/5 drop, but that'd still require a mini-notch & if I'm going to have to do a notch, well then, might as well go all the way & do the 6" drop!
I've really come to hate 2/4 drops!
The 6" drop is actually way easier to do, especially after having to mess with pinion angles & that @#$%$#@ driver side hanger on the 4" drop. Never again!

Richard. There's a couple of other things to do with a 6" drop that isn't included in the kit's instructions.
I'd recommend doing some brake line relocating. If you look at how your stock line is, there could be a possibility of it getting pinched as it snakes around to the front of the diff to the forward facing 1>2 splitter box thingie. Top left corner of the pic.
You will have to notch the box cross member above the diff's pumpkin. Mine's been boxed, but that's not a dead-set requirement. Just me putting in time burning some welding rods. I need all the practice I can get! Lol!
I can't recommend the kit to relocate the upper shock mounts enough. Even with the shock extenders, @ a 6" drop the shock's angles are pretty laid out & don't work as they were designed. They end up pivoting up & down with the suspension's movement instead of being compressed. I don't have a part number but it's a BellTech part & it's available from Summit for about $75.00. Other Co's should have it too.
I modded & relocated my stock upper mounts, but for the price of the BellTech part, doing that ain't worth the time & effort.

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[sewlow]

I agree with you. I like how it sits with my current wheels but I'm getting 20" wheels and will definitely want it lower. I don't have the stock parts but I could get some I'm sure.

My '97 @ 2/4 with 20's looks Donk-ish. To me anyhow.
Needs. MORE. low!
...and I'm really not a fan of that Kicked-in-the-Booty stance!

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