Getting rid of spider injection! Curiosity????

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99xcss4

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well it is the cheapest option there are cheap stand alones in the 150 range but you have to manually shift them and there are even some closer to 100 mark that you have to manually shift and manually engage lockup then there are the expensive one that do that for you and you can also do some tuning on them I think
 

Pinger

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Running at full line pressure isn't what I'd want to be doing though. The changes are harsh, fuel is wasted maintaining higher than necessary pressure, and by what I've read on this forum, it is hard mechanically on the transmission.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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I've driven some vehicles with full manual valve body. They were really fun. Do they make one for the 4l80? I'd do that before all the switches.
 

Komet

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I put TPI on my motor but it's the same amount of work as an LS swap to put that into perspective. Also I was already familiar with TPI so slapping it together is no sweat for me. Unless it's summer, then I'm just sweating on everything.

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Komet

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What improvements did you expect with the TPI, and what improvements did you actually get?
What's an improvement to me might not be to someone else, but I set out on this project with some goals:
-Use regular fuel injectors that are low cost and easy to get. The refurbished and flow matched Bosch 3's in my truck were $200.
-Keep it serviceable with OEM consumables. TPI needs a box of o-rings and a box of gaskets, otherwise it's any other old school sbc intake.
-Simplify the system in the ways GM never could. No AIR, no EGR, no cat, no TV cable, no wacky sideways distributor cap, three less o2 sensors. Most of those decisions were made based on what my ECM supports, but it's essentially a minimally complex system to support batch fire multiport fuel injection.
-Have a modern ECM that's easy to update with the changes I make to the truck. Gear ratios, tire size, camshaft, shift points, rev limiter, boost, whatever I want. Datalogging at the push of a button.
-Take advantage of the long runners for maximum torque output at towing and hauling rpms (the wave tuning effect happens between 2500-3800 rpm).

And I did get all of those things. I don't need a fast truck but it hauls out well. I skipped installing a cam because I found the bearings in the oil pan but honestly now that I'm driving it, it's totally fine and absolutely traction limited with an open diff. Running the throttle off the cruise control peg (not recommended) makes it easy to crack the throttle kinda fast and I'm still chirping it around corners like a goon unintentionally.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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I've driven some vehicles with full manual valve body. They were really fun.

I once reprogrammed my Suburban’s ECU to shift the 4L60E to whatever gear I had selected with the column shift, i.e., to enable a sort of manual gear selection, and I also enabled TCC lockup at all possible times (TCC lockup is selectable in 2,3,4, not 1) and set the TCC to remain locked b/t shifts (to extent the ECU would allow).

I did it just for grins, to see what it was like. I simply drove it about town a little when traffic was light.

After that bit of fun, I (re)programmed the ECU back to its prior config.

End of experiment.
 
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