First real test drive today, after V8 swap.

[Jimmy D]

Yikes brotha! That’s kinda warm. 195 is normal. Now I wonder if it’s pulling timing out because it’s starting to knock and ping at higher temperatures.

I haven't read this whole thread but I think a partially plugged radiator and or faulty thermostat, fan clutch might be the culprit to the higher temps.
Would pulling timing out of it at WOT likely cause it to go rich rather than lean?

 

[DeCaff2007]

Simply go to "Acquisition" on the top toolbar, scroll down and click on "Record". Then follow what it says - IIRC you will have to give it a target file location.

Drive around or whatever it takes to make it act up and go back to normal. Then go to "Acquisition\Stop", and save it to your location. I suggest you create a folder in Documents titled something like "88 C1500 Data Logs", or whatever. You'll be making a bunch of logs before you're through. I'll usually name each file with the date such as "Log 03-31-24". If you do more than one log in a day, "Log 03-31-24a" and so on. This way, you can name screenshots differently to keep them separate. HTH

Alrighty, then. I'll post the results up when I get them. Thanks.

I'd lean more toward a cooling issue than a tuning issue, truck should have enough cooling capacity to pull more than its own ass down the road I can't imagine idling overloading it.

Yikes brotha! That’s kinda warm. 195 is normal. Now I wonder if it’s pulling timing out because it’s starting to knock and ping at higher temperatures.

Ah, see now we're getting somewhere.

Water pump and hoses are brand new. New thermostat is a 195°. That radiator, I pulled out the yard some time ago from a K2500. It's specifically the longer one - 34". The radiator fan is the plastic "upgrade" from any 90's blazer and the fan clutch is brand new. The upper rad shroud is a match to the radiator, but the lower rad shroud is NOT. I've been having a hard time finding one. It clears the rad fan, however, it'll fit the shorter rad, not the longer one. Rad cap is brand new.

I even bought the tool to pressure test the whole cooling system and it passed.

What the Hell else could be causing a cooling problem?

EDIT: Also, I just went and looked... I do have a NIB radiator that is the 34" and has the oil cooler line fittings equipped. There had to be a reason I didn't use the brand new radiator first.

Knowing myself as I do, I likely ordered it and then found the JY rad before getting a chance to install the new one. Then, after find the yard rad, my cheap a$$ probably thought, "Oh sweet, I'll return the new one and save boku bucks!" Yeah, that never happened.

 

[Orpedcrow]

What the Hell else could be causing a cooling problem?

Partially plugged radiator. Bad water pump (the fins start to disappear).

Are your heater hoses hooked up or bypassed or blocked off?

I don’t know the specifics but there’s something to do with coolant holes needed or not needed when putting vortec style heads on non vortec engines? I’m sure someone mentioned it in one of your threads

 

[DeCaff2007]

Partially plugged radiator. Bad water pump (the fins start to disappear).

Are your heater hoses hooked up or bypassed or blocked off?

I don’t know the specifics but there’s something to do with coolant holes needed or not needed when putting vortec style heads on non vortec engines? I’m sure someone mentioned it in one of your threads

Heater core hoses are connected right where they should be.

AH, so these heads are NOT Vortec heads. They are chinesium aluminum SBC heads.

 

[rebelyell]

What the Hell else could be causing a cooling problem?

Here we are some post #250+ ... I dunno the history & I'm not game to study up either.

What else? Perhaps the block and/or heads' coolant passages are mucked up with scale/shmutz/sediment etc etc.

If so, a flush alone probably won't clean it. Nor will cleaning with the typical wimpy stuff on FLAPS shelves these days (the good old stuff disappeared long ago).
Do a search for Heavy Duty Cleaning with equivalent to Long-discontinued Prestone AS-100 2-part dry chemical that WAS sold in a canister a la pringles can. DuPont also Did market an identical product; No More!
AS-100 had about 9 dry oz Oxalic Acid in a discrete compartment and about 4 dry oz of Sodium Carbonate in the other. GM even published a TSB dated about 1999 regarding this and AS-100 or also Long-discontinued GM PN 12346500 (the current stuff w/ same PN is wimpy BS don't bother).

If ya know anyone working as a boiler tender or boilermaker, they can further educate you regarding these matters.

The Oxalic Acid in sol'n WILL dissolve the crud and accumulation of Iron Rust particles. It's strong stuff; wear both eye & hand protection --- told ya! OA available on hardware shelf as DAP wood bleach. The SC neutralizer on laundry aisle as Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda (it Ain't sodium bicarb; it IS sodium carbonate). Do a search for those key words and you'll find the GM TSB from 1999; highly recommended as a reliable guide. Nothing, NOTHING else will clean the block & heads internals so completely & leave em as looking new (except having bare castings vatted and/or baked n blasted. I have successfully performed this procedure on several different vehicles; both when the parts stores had it, and since I've had to make my own. Google's your friend. Good luck.

 

[Schurkey]

Well, technically, they are lol. Everyone tried to tell me that the intake manifold thread bores were "off angle", right out of the box. As usual, I didn't listen and did my own thing. You all were correct. I had to modify the intake to make it fit. Isn't that technically a faulty head?

NO. It's like saying a cylinder head for a small-block Chevy is defective because it doesn't fit a small-block Ford. Or saying a Chrysler small-block head is defective because it doesn't fit an Oldsmobile.

You bought the wrong cylinder head for the application. That's not the fault of the cylinder head, or the manufacturer of the head, or the store that sold it to you.

IF (big IF) that cylinder head has valves that stick in the guides; or valve seats that aren't concentric with the guides, or valves that don't seal on the seats, or the casting was cracked before you took it out of the box...it's defective.

You must be registered for see images attach

WHY do you have 26 knock counts at idle?
I'd expect that to retard the timing, destroy performance/power/economy; and lead to high coolant temperature.

I am not at all familiar with that user interface, I don't deal well with Metric (If that were my tool, I'd set it up to convert all the metric measurements to inches of mercury, or PSI, and so forth, because I'm way too lazy to look-up the conversions for you.) I can't blow-up the image big enough to read all of it. It's in open-loop, which makes sense as both the short- and long-term fuel trims are exactly 128, perfect mid-range numbers. Which then makes me wonder how much of this info changes when the computer goes into closed-loop operation.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

WHY do you have 26 knock counts at idle?
I'd expect that to retard the timing, destroy performance/power/economy; and lead to high coolant temperature.

That's an accumulated number since the start of logging. A lot of times we see a bunch of knocks at startup. I usually start the enging before I start the data log, unless there's something I'm looking for during cranking.

I am not at all familiar with that user interface, I don't deal well with Metric (If that were my tool, I'd set it up to convert all the metric measurements to inches of mercury, or PSI, and so forth, because I'm way too lazy to look-up the conversions for you.)

If you're looking at MAP, I know but, that's the way everything is calculated in the .bin - You can right click on any of the monitors and select metric or US. In this case, you can set it to show vacuum in inches too.

I can't blow-up the image big enough to read all of it.

Yeah, I don't care for the "Day Dash" format either, I usually click on the box in the upper left of the screen and select "Digital Dash" instead. Some masks don't offer that but the '7747 one has been "Hacked" more than any others, to display more stuff.

 

[DeCaff2007]

You bought the wrong cylinder head for the application.

How so? They are definitely SBC heads and bolt right on (except for the two intake bolts). All the accessories bolt right on, and, once adjusted correctly, the valve train works as it should.

Besides being a junk chinesium brand, what's wrong with them? Oh and yeah besides being angled-plug heads, why are they wrong for the application?

 

[DeCaff2007]

I am not at all familiar with that user interface

HA! Neither am I! I'm doing my best here to get live data.

Problem is I don't know WHAT to look for, nor do I know WHERE to find it.

 

[tayto]

I would remove thermostat and verify it opens, can boil a pot of water on the stove and test it. Also, the rad needs to get pulled and taken to a radiator shop. at least get it flowed and pressure tested. is the fan clutch original? probably time for one of those too...

glad you got turnpro working, definitely a step in the right direction.