First real test drive today, after V8 swap.

[Schurkey]

one of Brandons Kids (an illegal immigrant

I prefer "Border-Jumping Invader".

 

[Supercharged111]

I prefer "Border-Jumping Invader".

Don't worry, they see themselves back out. But not until they buy a minivan and towbar 3 other cars behind it out of the country at 45mph on the interstate.

 

[east302]

Judging by the pics and info, my pitman arm is installed correctly. I thought maybe the center link was backwards, but it looks identical on both sides. The problem has to be in the tie rod ends.

On my 98 K1500, the center link is not the same on both sides. Measuring the holes on center, it’s (approximately) 3.5” from idler arm to tie rod and 5” from pitman arm to tie rod. Maybe 89 was different, but it’d be worth another look.

 

[DeCaff2007]

OK I believe the steering issue is solved. First, I checked everything in the image that @Schurkey posted. It's difficult to tell from the pics, but everything is lined up. As seen here, the flat is lined up ~ish with the weep hole.

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And here, the block tooth is lined up with the preload adjuster. See the red lines.

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Well, since we now know that that's all correct, THIS nailed it:

On my 98 K1500, the center link is not the same on both sides. Measuring the holes on center, it’s (approximately) 3.5” from idler arm to tie rod and 5” from pitman arm to tie rod. Maybe 89 was different, but it’d be worth another look.

Sure enough, I measured the holes on center from the inner tie rod to the pitman/idler connection. The friggen center link was backwards. I would have NEVER noticed that.

Soon as I reversed it, it lined right up with the pitman arm and idler arm.

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Lastly, @Schurkey it's the angle of the picture and the taper of the pitman arm that makes it look not parallel with the frame. I checked and double checked. Maybe the picture above is a little better.

The irony: The instant I started tightening everything back down, it started POURING down rain. Oh well. At least the problem is solved.

Now the only thing is to get the engine running right. LOL........

 

[east302]

Good deal, glad you got it sorted out. Thanks for posting the update.

 

[sewlow]

The friggen center link was backwards. I would have NEVER noticed that.

...and the alignment shop didn't either!
Obviously they didn't test drive, otherwise it wouldn't of/shouldn't of been called done.
You could turn one way, but not the other! That ain't right. SMH.
Seems to me that you all got was a 'set-the-toe-&-go' job.
I wouldn't be surprised if the knock-outs are still intact.

Pretty hard to fly like an eagle when your working with turkeys.

Now that the center link is installed correctly, I'd recommend a re-alignment.
But not by the last shop you went to. #clueless.

 

[DeCaff2007]

...and the alignment shop didn't either!
Obviously they didn't test drive, otherwise it wouldn't of/shouldn't of been called done.
You could turn one way, but not the other! That ain't right. SMH.
Seems to me that you all got was a 'set-the-toe-&-go' job.
I wouldn't be surprised if the knock-outs are still intact.

Pretty hard to fly like an eagle when your working with turkeys.

Now that the center link is installed correctly, I'd recommend a re-alignment.
But not by the last shop you went to. #clueless.

The rain stopped. I went back out and put everything back together. Took it for a test drive, even though it still doesn't quite run right. MY GAWD!! The steering is near PERFECT, minus a real alignment. I can hear and feel the front left dragging a big. Just a bit.

Also, now that I don't have to find unorthodox ways to steer left, I was able to pay more attention to what the engine is and isn't doing. Yes, it still probably needs to be hooked up to Tunerpro. I need time to learn how to use that. HOWEVER, it seemed to run just a little better today and I'm noticing the MAIN symptom seems like retarded timing.

My Wifes Buick acted the EXACT same way when we had the timing waaayyyyyy off. Like 5° ATDC. It used to start RIGHT up, but had zero power and could not get out of it's own way. This was on 100% stock build. We advanced the timing (@2500 rpm) until we could hear pinging, then backed it off a little. After that, it ran flawless until we F'ed it up by trying to convert to EFI (on a 2bbl, no less).

So, I'm wondering, I do advance the timing EVEN MORE before I go digging in uncharted territory...... I've also noticed that more advanced timing = more difficulty in starting the engine.

Know what, maybe I'll just take the win for now lol.

 

[Road Trip]

So, I'm wondering, I do advance the timing EVEN MORE before I go digging in uncharted territory...... I've also noticed that more advanced timing = more difficulty in starting the engine.

Hello DeCaff2007,

The Knock Sensor is a lifesaver (engine saver?) for those owners who just turn up the radio
when new sounds are coming through the firewall?

Seriously, for troubleshooting purposes I wouldn't hesitate to temporarily disconnect the
KS, turn off the radio, and assume those responsibilities by careful monitoring of the engine
by ear. And also see if advancing or retarding the spark timing makes for a better or worse
running engine? Normally I've found the best overall performance is when I advance the
timing just until light pinging is audible, and then back off the timing a couple of degrees.
(Bonus points for checking the timing after doing all this and writing it down for future
reference.)

NOTE: If you find the light pinging point and then back it off a couple of degrees, assuming
that you have a good KS you should be able to plug it back in and have the best of all worlds.
(Optimized timing for your motor/your gas/your driving style + the safety net of the KS backing
off the timing if pinging/knocking were to occur.)

Of course you don't want to overburden your starter by getting greedy with advancing the
base timing too far. Instead, a better answer would be to set the base timing back to stock
and then tuning your spark timing tables in your computer.)

And if carefully advancing your timing doesn't improve things, then we need to look elsewhere.
But temporarily disconnecting the KS and listening carefully to your engine while making adjustments
to your base timing is valid and can give you a good idea of where to go next.

Looking forward to your next update. And congrats on getting your steering sorted. Really like
the way that the members of this forum like @east302 and @Schurkey so
freely share their experience.

Very cool.

 

[Supercharged111]

I can't speak to the GMs, but when I unplugged the knock sensor on a Toyota of mine it was NOT happy. Retarded the timing something fierce to save itself and drove like crap.

 

[Schurkey]

If you're going to play games with initial advance, connect the scan tool and watch the knock counts.

No need to disconnect the knock sensor.