eBay 2” drop spindles vs bell tech or djm

[Drunkcanuk]

I Have a good idea what I need to do at this point going forward!
One last question regarding the cam bolt knockouts and installation of new or original cam bolts when doing Uca’s.

This Would be the first time installing control arms but the importance specifically with the uppers it’s noted mentioned too 100% knock out the cam tabs prior to installing new Uca’s. I’ assume this is for ability to get the camber adjusted at a shop down the line.
Is there a rule of thumb generally on making sure to mark where each cam bolt was rotated from factory before removing them !
Ex: making notches or scribing in alignment marks on each
“cam bolt” and “ Uca perch” that way when installing them they are already 98% back where they need to be ?

My Example: Before anything make some type of alignment mark prior to removing cam bolts ?

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Knocking out tabs as shown below

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Alternatively this Might be a dumb question but What would be the difference if you just left them cam knockouts in place and put the New Uca’s and bolts back in same position wouldn’t that give you a Precise factory alignment from the get go ?

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I would knock them out. That was so the factory could get them close enough to roll out the door.
If you were replacing them with factory ones, and not lowering your suspension then you would be ok.

But since that's the intent of why you are replacing them, knock them out. If you don't, the tech doing your alignment after is gonna hate you, and charge you accordingly for doing it!!

One of mine came out easy peasy, the other put up a fight for about 10min. And that was with it all torn apart. Couldn't imagine how happy a tech would be with having to do it when everything is in the way.

 

[A97obs]

I would knock them out. That was so the factory could get them close enough to roll out the door.
If you were replacing them with factory ones, and not lowering your suspension then you would be ok.

But since that's the intent of why you are replacing them, knock them out. If you don't, the tech doing your alignment after is gonna hate you, and charge you accordingly for doing it!!

One of mine came out easy peasy, the other put up a fight for about 10min. And that was with it all torn apart. Couldn't imagine how happy a tech would be with having to do it when everything is in the way.

Got it and as for the marks or alignment scribe made on the cam bolts and uca bracket before taking the bolts out that’s necessary right for placing new or original cam bolts back in there original rotated position ?

 

[A97obs]

B/T spindles widen the track by about .5" per side.
McGaughy's = .25" wider.
DJM & React do not widen the track.
You can run the DJM's with a 15" wheel, but the LCA's will need to be clearanced slightly more than with the McG's and a bit more than that for the B/T's.
No experience with the React spindles. They certainly look impressive!
React says that a 15" wheel will NOT work with their spindles, but as DJM does not widen the track & a 15" wheel CAN & has been used with them...
Maybe it's because those React spindles look quite a bit more substantial between the ball joints when compared to the others. That's may be where the clearance issues are, beyond whatever the LCA's require with the other brands.

This is the amount of clearancing required for B/T's & their derivatives to run 15" wheels.
Both sides of the arms needs to be done.
Run stick-on balancing weights with all of the different brands. No clip-on style. Even with modded LCA's. They WILL get knocked off.

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With all that being said and taking into consideration, if I long-term or all together , decided to go 17-18”or 20”inch and ditch 15” wheels, right off the get go would you recommend use belltech spindles at that point or still djm over belltech due to the not widening the track width. If I can hear it and see it from someone who ran reacts on 15s and they have a proven illustration or notes on what they trimmed and needed to do…for full steer clear I would probably spend the extra but if djm does the same not sure what I gain by using reacts, but I wanna keep the option to always be able to throw back on stock 15s with the lcas trimmed if I needed to .

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Got it and as for the marks or alignment scribe made on the cam bolts and uca bracket before taking the bolts out that’s necessary right for placing new or original cam bolts back in there original rotated position ?

Wouldn't hurt putting them back in the way they came out. Should get it close enough to drive to the alignment shop. My Belltech kit came with new cam bolts, but we put them back in as close as possible to the old ones.

 

[A97obs]

Wouldn't hurt putting them back in the way they came out. Should get it close enough to drive to the alignment shop. My Belltech kit came with new cam bolts, but we put them back in as close as possible to the old ones.

I haven’t order control arms yet thats any day now but I’ ordered moogs updated set of greasable zerk fitted cam bolts with some other needed for a few $ more then ac Delco

 

[roostmeyer]

Just a counter point, I installed ebay drop spindles in early 2019. Roughly 20,000 miles on them with no issue. Most of this stuff is built in the same factories as the name brand part. I also cut my springs, but I was wanting a little stiffer spring rate anyway. I never messed with camber/caster, just zeroed out toe. I'm sure I'm a little outside of factory camber limits, but ~-1.5° of camber shouldn't kill tires too badly as long as there's no toe. I also don't put enough miles on the truck to worry about killing tires faster than they'll time out anyway.

 

[A97obs]

Just a counter point, I installed ebay drop spindles in early 2019. Roughly 20,000 miles on them with no issue. Most of this stuff is built in the same factories as the name brand part. I also cut my springs, but I was wanting a little stiffer spring rate anyway. I never messed with camber/caster, just zeroed out toe. I'm sure I'm a little outside of factory camber limits, but ~-1.5° of camber shouldn't kill tires too badly as long as there's no toe. I also don't put enough miles on the truck to worry about killing tires faster than they'll time out anyway.

I appreciate the input definitely It was a big consideration going that eBay route but I mean I haven’t spared cost anywhere else I told myself and made a valid point ……if I just spent 100$ on Cunningham machined door pins bushings and rollers which by the way are , I can’t justify not paying extra for household spindles. And I think djm would be best “0” track with and paired with there drop arms I should be good .
Maybe if it was an old beater junker truck . But it’s a bit of in investment and restoration. But it’s good to know you found no real geometry issues or failures . Who was the seller by the way ? Link? Curious just to see price and specs

 

[A97obs]

So after being told to shoot for the Spindle and drop arms to maintain and keep travel etc … I Had a tech call with Djm just told me they’ never have tested nor reccomend pairing their 2” drop spindles with 3” drop arms ?!? They don’t know what the geometry would be on that . They reccomend spindle & springs mostly
Nor would any other brand/company probably say to do so .
Has anyone even heard of this Naysay? Or any done that combo on a gmt400?

I gotta kinda like really know I’m in the midst of ordering things on a daily basis

 

[A97obs]

That’s what’s on my truck. Powder coating is garbage but otherwise they’re great.

There may be others but IHC is the only other I can think of.

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Did you read my last post a minute ago I literally just talked to DJM on the phone tech department.
They told me never in their history have they ever told customers or recommended to pair their drop arms with drop spindles they do not know the geometry would be on that or what the effects would be?!

He said Mosie for the trucks and suburbans they push for spindle spring

So I guess I’m lost on this one. Your truck has drop arms drop spindles and stock springs?

 

[sewlow]

With all that being said and taking into consideration, if I long-term or all together , decided to go 17-18”or 20”inch and ditch 15” wheels, right off the get go would you recommend use belltech spindles at that point or still djm over belltech due to the not widening the track width. If I can hear it and see it from someone who ran reacts on 15s and they have a proven illustration or notes on what they trimmed and needed to do…for full steer clear I would probably spend the extra but if djm does the same not sure what I gain by using reacts, but I wanna keep the option to always be able to throw back on stock 15s with the lcas trimmed if I needed to .

My '97 had a 2/4 drop with CMS spindles. (Canuck Motor Sports. B/T derivitive. Only because they're head office/warehouse was just a couple of miles from where I lived.)
I ran 17's, along with some 15's & 20's on it whenever I felt ambitious enough to swap them.
Even with the amount that the B/T style spindles widened the track, I still had to clearance the LCA's to clear the 17's.
I did not have to clearance my '98's LCA's @ 4/7 to run the 17's with the same brand spindles.
Yea. Weird.

'97.

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