Camshaft replacement

[MiGorda]

Thinking outside the box a bit, sometimes a 2-step repair is cheaper than a single step?

That is, finding a used engine that will last a "few" miles, stuff that in, and use this to
keep your truck on the road while you keep the original engine, wait for the finances to
improve, and then rebuild your original engine right? (I read elsewhere that you really
want to keep this longtime traveling companion as original as possible?)

Then you can swap the restored original engine back in when it's better/easier for you. And
what the heck, if the 'temp' engine is still running, you might be able to sell it to
someone else, helping to defray the overall cost?

In other words, sometimes a placeholder engine actually makes sense when funds are
tight and/or you can't have the truck down that long. Of course the labor cost is
higher, but only you can decide what fits best into your budget.

I understand but here is diferent, in USA many things are droped into the trash in perfect conditions, here the engines are squeezed to the maximum, also maintenence given is not so good and the worst, in a reliable shop, prices are high, before I rebuild this engine, ask for a used and they want around $700 usd, I rathered to fix mine.

Now I need to be patient, my ansiety made me destroy this engine, maybe I'll do one spend by month, and the last one, the payment to my mechanic.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I have two stock TBI cams and an L98 cam I can't give away, but shipping one of them to Mexico looks to be near $100.

Have you checked to see how much your parts would cost through RockAuto? I believe they ship internationally, and they can probably get decent rates.

 

[MiGorda]

Thank you so much, I really appreciate your propose but the true is that I don´t like that kind of help, I'm very proud and I need to do it by myself and learn from my mistakes, actually my sister has the American nationality and she could send me some money but I will not even mention her this situation.

The stock cam is at good price at Rockauto but plus shipment isn´t worthy, Jeggs has free shipment over $200 USD, that's my best option because here in Mexico those parts are expensive, only the Melling stock cam costs $145, I rather another Lunati even paying a little bit more.

The kind of help I ask for is technical advisory, mainly because I need to rescue as much parts as possible, so if you know about that, could work togheter my current valvesprings with a less agressive cam? 10120100LK, please let me know.

Thanks Erik

 

[Erik the Awful]

It's not a good idea to reuse valvesprings, especially if you're going to a camshaft that's larger than stock in any way. You can always "try" them, but don't cry when one fails and trashes your motor.

At the very least, check their tension. If any are weak, do not try to run them. Throw them away.

 

[MiGorda]

Ok, I'll try to get new springs.

But let me tell you that in 2008 put a Vodoo cam and kept the OEM springs, they lasted 12 years and as you can see, the engine was dirty outside and inside with many mud, because the prior owner didn't make a good maintenece. That's one reason I would like to keep this stronger springs, also I wouldn't pay to my mechanic for that job and save some money.

Anyway I'll try to apply your advice.

Thanks Erik

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[MiGorda]

Happy 2024 to all the members.

Now you can see the damagein tth cam and lifters.

I would like your opnion about the damage in the block, the worst case would be bearings of camshaft and crank shaft? or maybe just cleaning up the block internally could save all its components?

I could removed all the lifters easily except the broken one.

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[Schurkey]

Shove some cardboard down the cam tunnel--curved to fit the cam bearings, open on top. Push the damaged lifter DOWN, catch it with the cardboard, pull it out.

Iron filings can destroy the cam, main, and rod bearings, and the journals that ride on them. I'd be looking at the cam bearings and cam journals for any sign of contamination/scoring/wear. The better they look, the better the chances for the crank bearings/journals. The iron powder can imbed on the aluminum pistons, scoring the bore. Ideally, engine comes apart for cleaning and inspection. I'm assuming you're not going to do that, though.

 

[Hipster]

Shove some cardboard down the cam tunnel--curved to fit the cam bearings, open on top. Push the damaged lifter DOWN, catch it with the cardboard, pull it out.

Iron filings can destroy the cam, main, and rod bearings, and the journals that ride on them. I'd be looking at the cam bearings and cam journals for any sign of contamination/scoring/wear. The better they look, the better the chances for the crank bearings/journals. The iron powder can imbed on the aluminum pistons, scoring the bore. Ideally, engine comes apart for cleaning and inspection. I'm assuming you're not going to do that, though.

Totally agree, better to tear it down now.

 

[Hipster]

My question is, if I don´t make a perfect cleaning, just remove the oil pan and without removing the engine from the truck I ask to my mechanic to do the best he can, do you think that at least could last a "few" miles, maybe 30,000? and maybe if my economy is better I will do another rebuild.

Maybe only last 500,1000,1500 mi. All that ground up metal is stuck all over everything. None have a crystal ball to say it would last 30k. Spraying some type of cleaner in there with the engine assembled isn't going to get the grit out.

 

[MiGorda]

Shove some cardboard down the cam tunnel--curved to fit the cam bearings, open on top. Push the damaged lifter DOWN, catch it with the cardboard, pull it out.

Iron filings can destroy the cam, main, and rod bearings, and the journals that ride on them. I'd be looking at the cam bearings and cam journals for any sign of contamination/scoring/wear. The better they look, the better the chances for the crank bearings/journals. The iron powder can imbed on the aluminum pistons, scoring the bore. Ideally, engine comes apart for cleaning and inspection. I'm assuming you're not going to do that, though.

Ok, I'll send the engine to my mechanic and let see how deep is the damage and what can I save.

About my original question, could you give me your opinion please.

These current springvalves will match with a one step down less agressive cam?

These are the installed currently:

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