Brake light switch wire repair

[gm muscle]

So I was replacing the brake booster on my '97 K1500 and I noticed the dark green wire leading to the brake switch had separated from its crimp on the clip. I'd like to add that all of the electrical dealing with the brake switch was in working order before this job. Those of you that have replaced your booster or brake switch know how extremely tight it is under the dash! I barely was able to remove the metal clip holding the switch to the pedal. I separated the brake switch from the harness (bought a new one just in case) and am hoping there is enough slack in the harness to pull it through the bottom somehow and solder the dark green wire to the connector. Even if it is possible, I'd need three hands...one to hold the connector, another to hold the soldering iron and one more to feed the solder!! There isn't any room for anyone to help.

I thought about dropping the steering column but I don't see how.

I need suggestions!

Thanks

 

[stutaeng]

So I was replacing the brake booster on my '97 K1500 and I noticed the dark green wire leading to the brake switch had separated from its crimp on the clip. I'd like to add that all of the electrical dealing with the brake switch was in working order before this job. Those of you that have replaced your booster or brake switch know how extremely tight it is under the dash! I barely was able to remove the metal clip holding the switch to the pedal. I separated the brake switch from the harness (bought a new one just in case) and am hoping there is enough slack in the harness to pull it through the bottom somehow and solder the dark green wire to the connector. Even if it is possible, I'd need three hands...one to hold the connector, another to hold the soldering iron and one more to feed the solder!! There isn't any room for anyone to help.

I thought about dropping the steering column but I don't see how.

I need suggestions!

Thanks

I just replaced my hydroboost on my 2000 k3500 last week. I had to drop the steering column....more like unbolt it and pull it up, as I was not able to completely remove it because of all of the wires.

There is 2 pairs of nuts to remove, plus a through bolt at the steering shaft. They are all 15 mm. A ratcheting wrench is your friend.

I tried to replace my brake light switch, but finally gave up. Even with steering column moved out it is thight.

I haven't completely assembled mine back up. My brake lights are not working and I'm trying to figure it out...

My brother has a C1500 and his is really easy to get to. They must have changed stuff, because mine is so tight under there.

 

[stutaeng]

Brother's C1500 is 1990 model.

 

[gm muscle]

I think the '88-'95? models were easier to work on...at least from the videos I've seen.

 

[gm muscle]

I haven't been able to work on the truck lately because of my work schedule but this labor day weekend changes things. I find it strange how sometimes taking a break from a job that seemed impossible, comes together next time you work on it. No, the truck isn't repaired yet or up and running but I think I found a solution.

So, I managed to move the brake switch harness through bracing and brackets to where it is actually serviceable. I can now either remove the pin from the connector and re-crimp the wire or I can loosely insert the wire and solder it in place. I'm not sure how to release the metal crimp from the connector...I'm sure I can eventually figure out how by using pics but I'm afraid to screw things up and make matters worse!

 

[gm muscle]

I managed to remove the pin from the connector and re-crimp the wire. I also mounted the booster, connected the booster rod to the pedal and mounted the brake switch. I'd like to have lunch with the engineers who designed this whole mess and proceed to gently stomping their nut.s! Tomorrow I'll install the retaining clip, Mount the master cylinder, bleed the brakes and pray everything goes according to plan.

 

[gm muscle]

There's not much forum traffic here, I guess! I'll just keep documenting so that someone doing this has another helping hand.


I put everything back together but I keep finding more air in the lines! I must have gone through 3 liters of brake fluid! Braking is quite dismal at present...I just need more time to work on it. I recently upgraded the master cylinder, calipers and brake lines which of course required bleeding the system. I went through even more fluid then to chase out all of the air but it took me around two days of bleeding to get a solid, firm pedal feel.

A side note for anyone looking for a brake switch retaining clip installation tip (1995-1998):
If you have short fingers, large hands or simply have fat hands like I do, then you won't be able to reach behind the brake switch and simply push the clip in place. You'll need to use a 10mm box end wrench and two small strips of tape to hold the clip in place. Next, use a long, large screwdriver to push the pedal towards the floor (if you're a small person than can easily lie on your side under the dash then this part doesn't apply). You'll be able to shorten the distance of the switch to your wrench and be able to place that retaining clip in place. Make sure to push the clip fully until you hear it click in to position.