body swap thread. gmt400 on gmt800 chassis

[Horns]

If frame mods are illegal, then the whole 800 frame idea is out the window.

~Via Mobile \,,/

 

[Hezsus]

If frame mods are illegal, then the whole 800 frame idea is out the window.

~Via My Bacon Machine \,,/

Unless he makes it look very stock. I've seen some heavily modified frames that pass inspection too.. just depends who you know.

But in reality there will be some pretty heavy mods.

 

[Van Gui1d3r #838]

If frame mods are illegal, then the whole 800 frame idea is out the window.

~Via Mobile \,,/

by law correct, but because my current truck is obd1, i dont need to be plugged in, inspection station wont look into it that far because they lose money on inspections in new york. inspection only costs 21 bucks and they have to check underside for quick visual, pull at least one wheel for brake inspection, check all wheel bearings, tie rods, lights etc... it takes them about half hour to do it and 40 minutes to do an obd2.... they typically charge 85 and hour so 21 for half to 3/4s is losing them money. in and out is how they do them. they see a stock frame theyll pass it, they wont look into what truck it came from. if its tube chassis they'll fail it and if they see patches (like what my current frame needs) theyll fail it. my buddys dime failed because he had it lowered so much he needed to notch the frame...

 

[benz88]

I wasn't arguing motor. A motor swap in the original frame would be a much more economic idea.



If the dude has the skill to put a 400 on an 800 chassis, then a full tube frame build would be no problem for him and would suit his needs much better.


~Via Mobile \,,/

theres a whole lot more to a tube frame then a couple body mounts on a stock frame cut and repositioned/welded.

 

[96k1500]

by law correct, but because my current truck is obd1, i dont need to be plugged in, inspection station wont look into it that far because they lose money on inspections in new york. inspection only costs 21 bucks and they have to check underside for quick visual, pull at least one wheel for brake inspection, check all wheel bearings, tie rods, lights etc... it takes them about half hour to do it and 40 minutes to do an obd2.... they typically charge 85 and hour so 21 for half to 3/4s is losing them money. in and out is how they do them. they see a stock frame theyll pass it, they wont look into what truck it came from. if its tube chassis they'll fail it and if they see patches (like what my current frame needs) theyll fail it. my buddys dime failed because he had it lowered so much he needed to notch the frame...

If its a quick inspection depending on the spot that needs patched put the material on the inside of the frame and weld the outside flush then grind it smooth and paint

 

[Van Gui1d3r #838]

If its a quick inspection depending on the spot that needs patched put the material on the inside of the frame and weld the outside flush then grind it smooth and paint

yes that could work. the only thing im concernd about is with gmt400s, mine is rotted in the exact area that up here we have issues with... anyone who knows these trucks up here will know to inspect that area well...

 

[great white]

Because I don't want to see you spend a lot of money and months of work and get boned, I will say this: even if I only had to look at front suspension components for an MVI I would instantly know it's not the frame the truck came with.

Also, any mechanic worth his salt is going to know at first glance if you have torched the body mount frame tabs off and moved them unless you get someone very, very VERY good with a welder and grinder to move them. Even then they will likely know. Robot welds and hand welds are very easy to distinguish 99% of the time.

The real question is the particular guy you get doing your mvi: if he doesn't care you'll go through. If he's actually worried about his (and/or the shops) inspection licence he'll look at it and you're done like dinner.


Personally, if we had that strict a set of mvi laws when I was doing them I would have rolled it off the lift and sent you home. You may or may not have gotten a big red rejected sticker on the windshield.

IMHO, you're gambling a lot of money on something just because you've got a good set of body panels......which you may not be able to use anyways after you've failed inspection.

I understand emotional ties to vehicles, I've had them. But there comes a point when it's just costing you more than it's giving back and it just makes no sense prolonging the inevitable.

Your frame rotted away, you're in a place that knows this happens and it sounds like they specifically look for it.

In this case it sounds like your best bet is to say a heartfelt goodbye, put it out of it's misery and move on.....

 

[TylerZ281500]

Because I don't want to see you spend a lot of money and months of work and get boned, I will say this: even if I only had to look at front suspension components for an MVI I would instantly know it's not the frame the truck came with.

Also, any mechanic worth his salt is going to know at first glance if you have torched the body mount frame tabs off and moved them unless you get someone very, very VERY good with a welder and grinder to move them. Even them they will likely know.

The real question is the particular guy you get doing your mvi: if he doesn't care you'll go through. If he's actually worried about his (and/or the shops) inspection licence he'll look at it and you're done like dinner.


Personally, if we had that strict a set of mvi laws when I was doing them I would have rolled it off the lift and sent you home. You may or may not have gotten a big red rejected sticker on the windshield.

IMHO, you're gambling a lot of money on something just because you've got a good set of body panels......which you may not be able to use anyways after you've failed inspection.

I understand emotional ties to vehicles, I've had them. But there comes a point when it's just costing you more than it's giving back and it just makes no sense prolonging the inevitable.

Your frame rotted away, you're in a place that knows this happens and it sounds like they specifically look for it.

In this case it sounds like your best bet is to say a heartfelt goodbye, put it out of it's misery and move on.....

i second that. my old 88 was a swiss cheese mess there was even bondo on the frame, had it for a long time until i beat the snot out of it once and blew a headgasket, pulled the motor and decided to go 383, then found out i needed a frame before it collapsed on me. i found a short bed frame already solid axled and trussed and everything to swap my body new motor and trans in, i loved that truck but all in all it wasnt worth it even though i would have loved to do the swap.

 

[Van Gui1d3r #838]

i second that. my old 88 was a swiss cheese mess there was even bondo on the frame, had it for a long time until i beat the snot out of it once and blew a headgasket, pulled the motor and decided to go 383, then found out i needed a frame before it collapsed on me. i found a short bed frame already solid axled and trussed and everything to swap my body new motor and trans in, i loved that truck but all in all it wasnt worth it even though i would have loved to do the swap.

alright... well im not giving up toally yet... maybe ill look into another gmt400. if thats my route, what should i look for? any specific years or motors to look into? i love the extended cab. my previous trucks were all 84s 85s and 86s and all standard. im kinda in love with the auto in a truck now. never thought id buy one but auto is the in a full size.

 

[great white]

alright... well im not giving up toally yet... maybe ill look into another gmt400. if thats my route, what should i look for? any specific years or motors to look into? i love the extended cab. my previous trucks were all 84s 85s and 86s and all standard. im kinda in love with the auto in a truck now. never thought id buy one but auto is the in a full size.

It depends on your intended uses.

For example: I need to tow a 9000lb, 35 foot travel trailer. I like/need a longbox. I have dogs. I like decent fuel mileage. I need a road going 4x4 becuase if my job (weather cannot stop me from getting to work).

I ended up with a 98 K2500, ECLB, 8600 GVWR with a 6.5 Turbo Diesel. About the only thing that would be "changable" for me would be a 454 vice a 6.5, but then fuel mileage kinda drops off the list.

As far as years: some of it is personal choice, some of it is mechanical. Want a Vortec? 96+, which means you get the newer interior and OBDII. And it goes like that depending on what you want....