BNielsen's 2000 Chevy K3500

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BNielsen

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Always hook your chains up, you don't want your trailer to become a missile if something catastrophic were to happen
I should've specified, I always hooked chains but the loops on the hitch were always a pain, my dad had the same issue with the C3500 when we had our first camper, he started out using those little carabiner type things but he didn't like how wimpy they were, a trip to Napa and he came home with those d-rings. I started running them not long after I got my trailer, with the B&W I didn't have a choice because of the spacing on the hook loop.
I'm pretty sure he hooks them up to those d rings, otherwise what's the point of them? I think it's slick, sometimes that clasp can get snagged and be a PITA.
Bingo
 

GrimsterGMC

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I should've specified, I always hooked chains but the loops on the hitch were always a pain, my dad had the same issue with the C3500 when we had our first camper, he started out using those little carabiner type things but he didn't like how wimpy they were, a trip to Napa and he came home with those d-rings. I started running them not long after I got my trailer, with the B&W I didn't have a choice because of the spacing on the hook loop.

Bingo
Safety chains have to be able to not only support the weight of the trailer, and load, but also the shock loading of the connection separating suddenly. The chains connection to the tow hitch also has to be rated to suit that load. So often you see trailers with flimsy chains and connectors that would break in an instant if the tow ball broke. Better to over specify than under as a loaded trailer coming lose is not something any of us would want to experience.
 

BNielsen

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Safety chains have to be able to not only support the weight of the trailer, and load, but also the shock loading of the connection separating suddenly. The chains connection to the tow hitch also has to be rated to suit that load. So often you see trailers with flimsy chains and connectors that would break in an instant if the tow ball broke. Better to over specify than under as a loaded trailer coming lose is not something any of us would want to experience.
Thought of that too; hence the clevis and not the wimpy carabiner
Those d-rings are rated for 13K and the trailer receiver is rated for 16K. I (probably) won't ever tow that heavy (at least not with a bumper pull) but it's a peace of mind thing. I'm wanting to get a higher rated drop hitch too, though it's not really necessary.
I've seen and been apart of enough sketchy stuff that worked out, so I'm perfectly content with being overkill on 90% of my rigging for towing.
I just wish I could successfully tow and not almost break down every time....
But that's also why I'm putting this truck together!
 
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BNielsen

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Goofed up a little bit on the hitch, I checked part numbers before I bought it and got confused, fitment did say it will go on an 88-98 Chevy, but only a cab and chassic truck!
I'm hoping I can reassemble it with the eyes flipped in and it'll line up, probably going to have to drill a couple new holes.
I might sit on it and measure a bunch of times, I'll probably wind up caving and getting the correct truck hitch or putting the factory one back on. Feel like a bit of a fool but oh well, it happens to the best of us
 

Supercharged111

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Cab and chassis rails are spaced at 34", I think the pickups were quite a ways off of that. Plus the rails are tapered on a pickup.
 
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