biy brake lines

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duanes7

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My truck has brake lines that are rotted through. The front is dead center on the front cross member where it passes through a clip. and the rear where the line descends past the frame before bending to go back. If these two are rotted out, I decided I might as well replace them all. However, I guess nobody sells pre-bent brake lines for this year. I also searched around town and there wasn't anyone willing to tackle this. Looks like I get to do it...

I bought: tube cutter ($4.99 harbor freight), tube bender ($9.99 harbor freight), double tube flaring kit ($24.99 harbor freight), #2 nut assortment ($15.75 fedhillusa.com), #4 nut assortment ($16.60 (fedhullusa.com), 3/16"x25' poly armour brake line (21.99 autozone), 1/4"x25' poly armour brake line ($23.99 autozone), and 2 couplings 1/4" 7/16-24, $3 each autozone). This is enough to do all the lines front and rear.

I removed the old lines and bent all new ones to match. Actually this wasn't too hard. Couple of notes though...

1. I might recommend a better tube flare kit. The one from harbor freight I had to play with while clamping the tube to ensure the halves of the clamp lined up. Otherwise the divot for the flare wasn't square.

2. Install a fitting and flare the first end before beginning your bends. That way if it messes up it can be redone without ending up short. Also be sure that the fitting is slid to the flared end before the making the first bend, it won't want to slide there afterwards.

3. Installing the front line was the most trouble as it was the most intricate. Remember the route when taking the old one out. It is bent to go around the other lines, the radiator hose, the steering rack, etc. I had to bend it a little out of shape to install it but it was no big deal.

4. To make the coils in the tubes I used a can (butane) I had and just twisted the line around it.

5. Once the lines are back in, tight, and clamped back into the factory clamps, do some final adjustments to make sure it isn't touching anything so it doesn't get worn through.

Now to bleed them...
 

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duanes7

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Went to bleed them Saturday and the left rear bleeder is completely corroded away. Just a little rusty nub. New wheel cylinders were only $10 each and new calipers were $15. Installed all. Had to also install new adjuster kits as the star wheels and rods were frozen. Also put in a new master cylinder while I was at it...

Now I have good brake pressure on the second pump. Still need to bleed them, rained the last 2 days...
 

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eric.s.t

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Nicee work man! any one know if the coil in the line under the master cylinder an important thing? What exacly does it do?
 

duanes7

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It allows for flexing/movement between the parts. Under heavy stress the fender where the abs is mounted may move differently than the firewall. There's also coils after the abs and before the lines on the frame.
 
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