Best Camshaft for Towing?

[shovelbill]

Definitely just looking to go with a basic flat tappet cam, no need for roller cams at this point. Just something to help the engine out a bit. We can talk about all that roller cam stuff when I do the next engine up . I wanted to get a little crazy with this engine when I wanted to lower it but since I'm going the other way now I'm trying to stay "reasonable". I'd like to install 3.73 gears in it soon since I'm installing a 4" lift kit with 32s, just something to give it a little pep. I figure my 3.08 (IIRC when I checked the RPO codes) will be a dog with the lift and bigger tires.

i'd really suggest 4.10's instead of 3.73's for a daily driver, let alone for towing.

 

[slowburb]

i'd really suggest 4.10's instead of 3.73's for a daily driver, let alone for towing.

I second this. 3.73 gear and 32" tire is about the same as stock tires and 3.42 gears. 4.10's and 32 inches of tire equates to a factory 3.73 gear/tire combo.

By my standards, this creates the bare minimum final drive ratio for a truck that works by hauling or towing.

If you're going to change gears, make it worth it.

Looking at cams:

Do you want to pick a cam that:
Exceeds the amount of air/fuel your TBI & fuel system can supply?
Exceeds the RPM limit of the breathing capability of your intake manifold?
Starts making power above the stall rating of your torque converter?
Is mismatched to your static compression ratio?

Probably not (times 4).

Logically this means you'll want to stick with something that is warmer than stock, but not so hot that you have change parts in all these other systems to be able have the cam swap make sense [cents]. Right?

Regarding the cams you posted.

The 1101 is arguably too small. The 1103 is definitely too big. Sure, there is this old rule of thumb that you can run a cam up to 218° intake duration on a stock torque converter, but why. If you have to run a summit cam, look at the 1102. It's your basic "RV" cam, with 204°/214° duration at .050". Every cam company sells or used to sell this cam.

There are better options. But, if all you're looking for is a basic summit branded cam, the 1102 is the one you should want.

 

[JCribb]

I’m still running the tbi fuel system, and I have the mellings MTC-1 cam in mine. I am told that about all the cam I can run and still use the factory fuel system with all fuel upgrades possible. Running any different cam with the factory fuel injection requires a computer chip to operate properly.

I have 4.10’s now from 3.73’s, but I’m running a NV 4500 5 speed manual in mine and I haven’t towed with the 4.10’s yet, because I’m still in the break in process for my gears. However, towing with the 3.73’s I had no problems.

 

[shovelbill]

I’m still running the tbi fuel system, and I have the mellings MTC-1 cam in mine. I am told that about all the cam I can run and still use the factory fuel system with all fuel upgrades possible. Running any different cam with the factory fuel injection requires a computer chip to operate properly.

I have 4.10’s now from 3.73’s, but I’m running a NV 4500 5 speed manual in mine and I haven’t towed with the 4.10’s yet, because I’m still in the break in process for my gears. However, towing with the 3.73’s I had no problems.

i believe "you had no problems"....but you also have a 5 speed, arguably a bit different than an automatic transmission.....the mechanical leverage offered by a lower gear is what's necessary, especially with an auto....engine braking is better and so is off the line torque, if matching a cam/converter combo properly. and yes, tuning would be a requirement in my book if swapping out to anything that goes beyond the stock parameters.

a semi-floating 14 bolt, geared at 4.10 would be a great upgrade for a half ton that's used for towing......much stronger and you get much better brakes in the deal.....just my $.03 based on what i've learned for myself.

 

[JCribb]

i believe "you had no problems"....but you also have a 5 speed, arguably a bit different than an automatic transmission.....the mechanical leverage offered by a lower gear is what's necessary, especially with an auto....engine braking is better and so is off the line torque, if matching a cam/converter combo properly. and yes, tuning would be a requirement in my book if swapping out to anything that goes beyond the stock parameters.

a semi-floating 14 bolt, geared at 4.10 would be a great upgrade for a half ton that's used for towing......much stronger and you get much better brakes in the deal.....just my $.03 based on what i've learned for myself.

Yes the SF 14 bolt swap is hands down the best upgrade I have done, but I will also say that having the trutrac in there makes it that much better.

 

[89GMCJOHN]

That Melling MTC-1 specs- looks like a good cam for towing to me ....
Part # CL-MTC-1

Basically a 254 264 .420 .443 112

 

[NightRunner]

That Melling MTC-1 specs- looks like a good cam for towing to me ....
Part # CL-MTC-1

Basically a 254 264 .420 .443 112

Looks like a Summit K1102 cam according to specs, which is the one that I'm planning on buying after checking out the recommended cams. A semi float 14 bolt is definitely in the realm of possibility, it's just the issue if trying to find one and swapping rotors out up front for the 6 bolt setup. Figure I'll attack it all at once one of these days. Until then, thanks for all the help!

 

[JCribb]

Looks like a Summit K1102 cam according to specs, which is the one that I'm planning on buying after checking out the recommended cams. A semi float 14 bolt is definitely in the realm of possibility, it's just the issue if trying to find one and swapping rotors out up front for the 6 bolt setup. Figure I'll attack it all at once one of these days. Until then, thanks for all the help!

You should be able to find a parts rig in your area, considering there’s probably more trucks in Texas than anything else. If you’re not familiar with it, I like to use the car-part dot com website, as it is essentially a junkyard part site.

When looking for the axle, I recommend looking at light duty 2500’s, as they came in a six lug configuration. I know that there’s a difference in 2 & 4 wheel drive axles, so you will need the appropriate one for your application.

 

[magimerlin]

You should be able to find a parts rig in your area, considering there’s probably more trucks in Texas than anything else. If you’re not familiar with it, I like to use the car-part dot com website, as it is essentially a junkyard part site.

When looking for the axle, I recommend looking at light duty 2500’s, as they came in a six lug configuration. I know that there’s a difference in 2 & 4 wheel drive axles, so you will need the appropriate one for your application.

He should check out the "wrench-a-part in belton... little bit of a drive but the yard is f'n huge... tons of gmt400's. I go to their yard in delvalle(austin) which is only a quarter the size of the belton yard and they ALWAYS have 60-100 gmt400's in the yard.

http://wrenchapart.com

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 

[JCribb]

He should check out the "wrench-a-part in belton... little bit of a drive but the yard is f'n huge... tons of gmt400's. I go to their yard in delvalle(austin) which is only a quarter the size of the belton yard and they ALWAYS have 60-100 gmt400's in the yard.

http://wrenchapart.com

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

I wish I had that kind of an option in my small area of Missouri. Sadly, I have to drive several hours to get to a decent u pull salvage.