Best Camshaft for Towing?

[NightRunner]

As the title states, I’m curious about doing a cam swap on my ‘91 C1500. 5.7 TBI, I’m definitely getting a retune after the cam install. I’ve been eyeing the K1103 Summit cam, but the K1101 claims to be best for low end torque. All I really know for towing is these Summit cams so I’ll take any other suggestions you guys might have.

Thanks!

 

[shovelbill]

what is your effective gear ratio?

 

[Iowan]

Try out camquest.com. In my honest opinion, You'd be better off with a Comp Xtreme 4x4 X4258h/hr or a Ramjet/395 (hydraulic roller) cam. That 1101 is even smaller than the stock cam. http://www.compperformancegroupstor...CC&Product_Code=08-409-8&Category_Code=HRX4X4
http://www.compperformancegroupstor...e=CC&Product_Code=08-407-8&Category_Code=HRXE https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-14097395
You can also do either of these in flat tappet.

 

[NightRunner]

My gear ratio will be 3.73 when I buy the camshaft. I figured the K1101 was pretty damn small looking at the specs. I’ll check those links out

 

[L31MaxExpress]

First you should find out if your block is even roller compatible.

I ran a F/Y car LT1 vette cam in my old TBI swapped 1983 G20 van. 700r4 with 3.08 gears and a G80. It would roast the P295/50R17s I had on it at will.

If it is a flat tappet block, I would go with something like the Comp High energy 252 or 260. Single pattern cams work very well with the swirl port heads.

 

[Iowan]

You could try a LT4 Hotcam, though with that I’d suggest a converter swap and a petter flowing head that the Vortecs. If you use 1.6:1 rockers it makes it a .525 .525. From what I heard it’s a really great cam but larger than
what I prefer.
Don’t forget you’ll have to do some work to your Vortec heads for a cam past .450 lift, I talked to a Chevy tech and they don’t like to see a cam past .520 which I think and have heard is WAY too high. I have found that some people put combat the retainer to seat problem have used LS6/7 springs. Screw in studs are still the way to go for cam swaps.

For the cost of the machine work I would rather go buy some aluminum heads.

I called a guy and they said they have very reasonable prices for all head work, I wanted 2.02 inlet and 1.6 exhaust and he quoted me 250 a head for nothing but the machining and I need to supply parts, I’m sure that is reasonable but for 750 I can get some really nice Skip White NKB200-174.

Every time I start to plan out my engine I start staying I’m only going to build it up with about $1000-2500 in performance parts, then I talk to a bunch of people and look at more expensive parts that are better and when I add it up it comes to $5,110

 

[Iowan]

I just realized you have a TBI not a Vortec. Sorry for the over abundance of Vortec info.

 

[884x4310ci]

I used a comp cams 4x4 grind in my 310 sbc. Lots of low end torque.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I used a comp cams 4x4 grind in my 310 sbc. Lots of low end torque.

The 4x4 grinds are not bad.

I had a 206/210 on a 110 lsa 4x4 roller in the 350 in the Express van for a while.

Also have a 305 Vortec in a 1999 Tahoe. Run a Lunati High Efficiency 268 in it. 218/218 @ .050 flat tappet. Runs great for a small cube engine that is otherwise stock.

 

[NightRunner]

Definitely just looking to go with a basic flat tappet cam, no need for roller cams at this point. Just something to help the engine out a bit. We can talk about all that roller cam stuff when I do the next engine up . I wanted to get a little crazy with this engine when I wanted to lower it but since I'm going the other way now I'm trying to stay "reasonable". I'd like to install 3.73 gears in it soon since I'm installing a 4" lift kit with 32s, just something to give it a little pep. I figure my 3.08 (IIRC when I checked the RPO codes) will be a dog with the lift and bigger tires.