beefing up trailer for higher payload

[Hipster]

I am on the edge of 5400# with passengers, gear, trailer & 3500#. But still under. After having this discussion and researching more the dual axle is probably the way to go. It was honestly my plan originally, it was only after talking to the local trailer place that he said just do a 6 or 7k axle, which is why I was reaching out. I had actually been looking at horse trailers as most of them have dual axle & 2-2.5x the payload of what I got, but most of them were in need of more work than I was willing to do. Also a lot of home built stuff. Most of the ones I looked at were similar construction to what I got, but with either steel or 2x6 floors.

I knew this thread would ruffle a lot of feathers.

Not ruffled in any way, just more concerned about some safety. Most of the collision training about suspension, repair quality etc, has a strong focus on liabilities for the work/modifications that we do. It's not solely about if we ourselves are safe from liabilities as technicians there is a large emphasis placed on disaster type scenarios. Actually hate being "that guy"

Just for reference and food for thought. I had a nephew that killed a drunk woman who jaywalked out into the street between two parallel parked cars in the pouring rain. Slid right over her on the binders he did. Found not guilty in criminal court. This did not stop the mother, father, husband, sister, brother, son, daughter, Aunt, Uncle from suing him one at a time in civil court one by one, one after the other for better then a decade. He couldn't ever escape it. Each new filing by a new party was a new trial. No free lawyer in a non-criminal case. No surprise he took his own life. Not trying to be offensive but there more to than what you think you can get away with. You're not on the road alone. The shortcut is not worth the risk.

From my own research the light duty low capacity box trailers I looked at didn't have much more than 2x2or3 tube frames, the dual axles ones generally had 2x4 or 5 frames, some 2x6 tube. There were lots of price points that directly related to structure. A smokin' deal usually isn't when getting to the nitty-gritty of how it's built. Choose wisely and there is usually some kind of engineering behind capacities etc. We pays our monies and takes our chances. Some don't have much to lose.

 

[GoToGuy]

You talk about inspections, they are not engineers. There looking at condition, lighting , corrosion, obvious visual issues.
An engineer builds structures. Not the the sales guy at the trailer supply.
What did you expect, instead of getting the right tool for the job , trying to short cut it, and justifying it ?
Bottom line, what's your vehicles GCVWR. That's the total weight limit of your vehicle and trailer.
You can do whatever you want just remember, you get into a crash of any kind, whether this is your private or company vehicle better have good insurance.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

not to sure where this removing the VIN came from. I never said anything about removing the VIN. I have used trailers before, I am aware that loads need to be strapped down properly. The trailer has lots of tie down points. The load is not concentrated to one side, I am not sure where you are getting this from? I can spread the load evenly and achieve the recommended 60/40 weight distribution.

I already explained this but I will try one last time. In Canada if you have a custom or home made trailer made then you can have the registry send someone out to your house to certify that it isn’t stolen and add a VIN to it so it can be registered and plated. This isn’t an engineer that’s coming to stamp your design it’s simply a way to allow people to register a trailer that is custom made not manufactured and sold commercially.

I wanted a custom trailer so I paid a welder and fabricator to design and build what I wanted. He took an engineered blueprint for a trailer rated for 7000 pounds, modified it to my liking, sent it back to the engineer to have it stamped. He then fabricated the trailer and once it was complete we called in the registry to add a VIN. When the registry representative got there he reviewed my engineered blueprint, assessed the welds, checked the axle ratings, and then carefully looked the trailer over for an existing VIN. This process doesn’t work for a trailer that has an existing VIN.

I agree with the other fine gentleman above. I hate being “that guy”, but you are way out of your wheelhouse on this I’m afraid.

 

[AuroraGirl]

not to sure where this removing the VIN came from. I never said anything about removing the VIN. I have used trailers before, I am aware that loads need to be strapped down properly. The trailer has lots of tie down points. The load is not concentrated to one side, I am not sure where you are getting this from? I can spread the load evenly and achieve the recommended 60/40 weight distribution.

you said you want to make this a 'homemade' trailer
If it has a vin thats kinda implied lol.

 

[tayto]

I already explained this but I will try one last time. In Canada if you have a custom or home made trailer made then you can have the registry send someone out to your house to certify that it isn’t stolen and add a VIN to it so it can be registered and plated. This isn’t an engineer that’s coming to stamp your design it’s simply a way to allow people to register a trailer that is custom made not manufactured and sold commercially.

I wanted a custom trailer so I paid a welder and fabricator to design and build what I wanted. He took an engineered blueprint for a trailer rated for 7000 pounds, modified it to my liking, sent it back to the engineer to have it stamped. He then fabricated the trailer and once it was complete we called in the registry to add a VIN. When the registry representative got there he reviewed my engineered blueprint, assessed the welds, checked the axle ratings, and then carefully looked the trailer over for an existing VIN. This process doesn’t work for a trailer that has an existing VIN.

I agree with the other fine gentleman above. I hate being “that guy”, but you are way out of your wheelhouse on this I’m afraid.

I don't post for help here often, this might even be the first time. I came here to hopefully get educated and see if my plan is good or bad. I thought I was pretty clear in my first post about safety, etc. However, it took 4 pages to get here which it probably wouldn't have needed to if you had posted this first. About half way through the discussion switched from modifying the trailer to working within the confines of what my tow vehicle and trailer can do, and then getting told it can't do that either. I guess I need more explanation than just "you can't do that".

 

[Sean Buick 76]

I do feel for ya, it sounds like you were given some poor info prior to making your posts here. I’m
Just glad that you were open minded enough to listen to our advice and make your own decisions.

We’ve all had good ideas that turned out to be less than ideal. A perfect example is a tow truck I bought once! It was a 2 ton ford chassis with a F-150 reg cab stuck on the chassis. It had a 460 big block, 5 speed manual, 4x4 with 15,000 pound PTO winch, flat deck with wheel lift off of the winch with pins to secure it at height. I ripped off all of the tow equipment and mounted a 18 foot long flat deck with a tilt and was making it a car hauler…. All was well till about $4000 into the conversion I realized that the VIN and GVW was based on the 150 cab!!! I looked into all sorts of options and found that it was best if I simply removed my deck. Bought a turbo 7.3 F-450 cube truck that had a huge weight rating and installed my deck on that after making the cube a storage spot for spare car parts.

 

[tayto]

@Sean Buick 76 I guess the big eye opener is using this for work & being legal. I think the trailer could be beefed up to handle the 3000# load, but if I get into an accident I highly doubt my employer would cover me if it's discovered I was 2x over the payload. The shop owner definitely made it seemed easier but I don't think he's done it himself either. Even going the home built route could be a hassle, I've seen princess auto sells plans, I wonder if they come with an engineer stamp? This was a way for me to put some extra money in my pocket by renting the trailer to the company when I use it. But if I have to spend $10K on a "legal" trailer that would take years to break even and don't think it would be worth it. The good news is I can use the trailer this summer to unload my 40' seacan as I am going to move it else where on my property so I can use it for shop space. I am not worried about getting my money out of it. thanks again!

 

[1madmouse]

Doesn't vehicle code trump all of this? That would be the final word. The people here at GM400 are going to give their ideas and thoughts based on experience from years of dealing with vehicles and trailers, etc. I believe you value their input that is why you came here and asked your question. I believe it is take it, or leave it, they offer help honestly only wanting what is safest for all of us.

 

[Keeper]

Didn't read thru all the pages, but I would make double sure of your tie-down design. Small, heavy items like that can punch thru those walls/doors in a load shift, or accident

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

IDK about Canada but here in AZ, probably the whole USofA, a single axle without brakes has a limit of 3,000# GVW. Recently, I got a "Home Made" trailer registered and licensed. They asked me what its GVW was, I said 3,000#. They walked around it, stuck a vin label on the tongue and gave me a permanent plate

You must be registered for see images attach

My C1500 doesn't have a problem pulling or braking with it but, I wouldn't go any heavier for sure.

You must be registered for see images attach

Some day I may even paint it