Balljoint Question

[Loss4wrds]

Hey I have a brand new upper balljoint that only lasted 5k miles. I am going to have to replace it again. When I did all the balljoints, tie rod ends, and idler/pitman arms I had the whole front end apart. My question is can I replace the upper balljoint without pulling the tortion bars?
Never thought I would get a bad MOOG balljoint... Oh well.

 

[dirtridinz71]

No need to do anything with the tbars for the upper balljoints (or lowers for the matter). Just a simple unbolt, seperate and swap.

 

[Hezsus]

Yes, no need to pull the bars. I did my whole front end without pulling them or removing the shocks. It does help if you loosen them all the way. But i've done it by setting the lower arm on a big block of wood and letting the weight of the truck on it, them with some presuasion on the uca you should be able to get the new joint back into the tapered hole.

 

[ChrisAU]

Hey OP, and pics or specs on that truck man??

 

[Swims350]

most likely it went bad due to over cranked, it looks way cranked up, maybe I'm wrong.

Things happen tho, good and bad in all.

 

[Loss4wrds]

I think I just got a bad part. Or maybe I didn't get it right on the install. This was the balljoint that I screwed up on during my build, and I may have lost patience with it, not really sure yet. Dropped it off to have it alighned and the shop called about the balljoint.
Got a 6" suspension lift little to no cranking, stock keys, and have 3/4" or more on the adjuster bolts. And the CV's are fairly straight.
Thought I had a pic but I can't find it.
If I back off the tortion bars anymore the heads of the adjuster bolts will hang below the crossmember.

Here is my build thread http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthr....-My-very-own-build-thread.&highlight=finally

Did all the worn suspension parts when I did the lift so I wasn't sure if I could get away with pulling the wheel and popping it out or if trying to do it that way was going to be a headache

 

[Hezsus]

Do you have a good relationship with this shop? I hate to say it but i've seen many places replace a perfectly good part just for the extra $$. I'd get the truck, see how it rides. If the joint is bad at least moog has good warrenty.

I once had to replace wheel bearings after a week because i got impatient with them (stupid press in ones off a ford contour), then again in a week because i got impatient again. the uppers are pretty easy though. you should have it swapped in like 30min.

 

[Loss4wrds]

Pretty decent shop. But I never let anyone work on my truck if I can possibly help it. Going to pick it up after work and take a look. No rivits this time so hoping that it will go quickly. Thanks for the info.

 

[ChrisAU]

What are the signs that ball joints are bad? My '92 appears to have the originals on it.

 

[Hezsus]

It can be hard to tell a balljoint from a wheel bearing, But a Clunk when turning, stopping accel. 'wobbly' steering or clunking over bumps (the bumps is what i felt with a wheel bearing) the originals are rivited in replacements are bolted in