Aux. Battery With Pics!

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DWillmont

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So I hardly drive the Tahoe due to having a company vehicle when i do want to drive it battery is usually low and I have to jump it. Not any more follow along to see how to add an aux battery for added power.
NOTE: Mine was done with 2 batteries both having both top and side terminals can be done with side post just takes some alterations from directions. Proceed at your own risk instructor accepts no responsibility.

Parts needed:
1. A second battery (recommend same size as primary to prevent balancing issues)
2. Battery tray available from dealer or salvage yard (mine had storage box)
3. 1 Solenoid p/n 7000-S also referred to as 3 terminal battery switch (got mine from a camper supply store they are used in RV's)
4. 3 top post battery terminals (got mine from Walmart in the car audio section) (dont have to be that fancy but I wanted looks)
5. 1 - 4ga 78in. red battery cable with ring lug on one end from O'Reilly
6. 1 - 4ga 15in. red battery cable with ring lug on one end from O'Reilly
7. 1 - 4ga 30in. black battery cable with ring lug on one end from O'Reilly
8. 1 - 12ga. 6ft. stranded wire
9. 1 - 12ga. fuse holder with 20a fuse
10. Various sizes of shrink tubing
11. 1 - 12ga. ring terminal
12. 1 - 8ga. 2ft. black battery cable
13. 1 - 8ga. ring terminal
14. Zip Ties

Tools needed:
1. Test light
2. 3/8 drive sockets of various sizes
3. Lighter (for shrink tube)
4. Various wrenches
5. Wire Cutters
6. Razor Knife

Instructions:
1. To start test fit the solenoid where you will have fairly easy access(I chose to mount in front of ECM) you can mount using the existing bolt and a self tapping screw.
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2. Install battery into new battery tray previously or factory installed.

3. DO NOT CONNECT NEGATIVE CABLE UNTIL INSTRUCTED TO DO SO.

4. Using the 78in. cable connect ring terminal to one of the large terminals on the solenoid
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5. Route the cable across to the primary battery DO NOT CONNECT.(I chose to zip tie to existing battery cable)
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6. Using the 15in. cable connect ring terminal to opposite large terminal on the solenoid

7. Place on of the battery terminals on the positive post of the auxillary battery.
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8. Using the short battery cable route to terminal to determine length cut off excess and strip insulation off about 3/8 inch

9. Insert stripped end of cable into terminal and fasten set screw.

10. On the free end of the 78in. cable perform the same operation as before and install this cable end on the primary battery.

11. At this time both battery cables from solenoid should be attached at one end to the solenoid and one to each battery + post.

12. Using the 30in. ground cable attach under the nut directly behind the p/s pump.

13. Route cable up to negative terminal measuring length to cut using 3rd battery cable terminal.

14. Now we will install a ring terminal onto the 8ga. wire and attach terminal under bolt holding ABS module.

15. Again route this cable along side of 4ga. to battery - terminal

16. Connect both ground wires to terminal and install to battery.
it should look like this at this time

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17. Now install ring terminal to 12ga. wire and use heat shrink on connection.

18. Connect to small terminal on solenoid

19. Route cable under ECM past under hood fuse box.

20. Run wire through firewall and install 12ga. fuse holder under dash be sure to leave a little bit of slack.

21. Locate and isolate a 12ga. pink wire coming from the steering column.

22. Using your test light probe wire and ensure that wire is active when key is turned from off-accessory-crank and doesn't lose power until the key is shut off.

23. Once you confirm you have the correct wire strip approximately 1/4"- 3/8" from center of wire being careful not to cut the wire.

24. Strip back approximately 3/4" to 1" from free end of fuse holder and insert through the bare spot on pink wire wrap until wire around wire until secure for better connection I soldered mine.

25. Using electrical tape protect any bare piece of wire under the dash and install a zip tie to the connection to keep it tight and secure. Listen carefully while turning on the key to ensure solenoid engages (use an assistant to feel solenoid to besure it doesnt disengage before key is cycled off.

26. If all is working well clean up and enjoy 2000 cranking amps like I am.


One benefit of wiring this way with these terminals you can wire accessories to aux. battery and not worry about draining primary when key is off. Another key benefit is as soon as the truck is started both batteries are charging and the truck basically will jump start itself.


Thanks for your time and if anybody has anything to add or any questions just let me know.
 

CodyB

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Not saying this is a smart way to do it, but I had two identical batteries that I only wired in series with no solenoids to cut power. I also did this with non matching batts and they killed eachother over time. the matched ones did not and boosted starting power incredibly. I dont think I have any pics of this but ill look. Sold the truck so I cant go snap any more either.
 

970tahoe

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Does anybody have the smog pump and what not located on their secondary battery tray?

My Tahoe was bought in CA and it has the emissions **** on it...is there a way I could cap hoses and cut it out?
 

kfoster

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Whats the difference between using a solenoid and an isolator?
 

6chevy9

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why not just run an optima battery? i see you have durajunk batteries, IMO one yellow top put in where your stock bat is should do just fine if starting power is all your after. i had one, just like the commerical took it from one vehical to the next over and over again. i sold my cummins dodge with my optima so i dont have one anymore but even in a secondary vehical that battery could sit for a looooonnnnggg time in any weather and fire anything up, even my diesels in cold weather that had sat up plugged for weeks. not to tear you down on the dual batt set up, i like it, i just see no point being that its a gas motor and you prob spent enough money doing it to buy an optima. just my thoughts, tear me down and tell me the cons of optima if you dont agree!
 

CodyB

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Solenoids and isolators are the same thing, just price is the difference...
 

DWillmont

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I am not saying the optimas are junk or that i did it just because. I did it because I wanted it that way I now have additional power on tap for anything I want to add to the system. My brother is the manager in a small oil change shop that sells optima batteries. He said they usually sell 6-8 a week and said he has to exchange 2-3 a week that are defective. Not saying they are junk I have heard alot of good things about them they are just not my cup of tea. I will stick with my Durajunk they have been treating me well. To every man his own! Not saying you are wrong just defending my point of view. It is a bunch of **** that you try to post useful information on here to help someone who may be looking at the option of upgrading and there always seems to be someone who wants to flame your post. Have a good day sir!
 

jcro61

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I have a yellow top in my truck and I dont like it. It sucks for cold morning start ups. Id rather have an everstart in there.
 
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