Audio recommendations

[RawbDidIt]

I meant to put the newer one. I just changed the mono again. If you've looked at the box for the subs, there is no room under the back seat for anything other than the subs. I'll have to find another mounting point. The bucket seats should have enough room under them for these amps, they're not that big, right? If not I'll have to get super creative. I want to keep the back seat in there so it doesn't look like there's anything to steal, plus it's the perfect place for my dog to chill. All of these questions would be a hell of a lot easier to answer if I had the truck here, but I'll have to wait until June to make the final plans.

 

[michael hurd]

I had to bend a tab for the tension spring, essentially reversing it from sticking downwards to sticking upwards. The seat works as normal having done this.

I might have a mock up picture somewhere, it's easier when you remove the seat itself from the base, leaving the base in place. Note: you will only be able to do this if you have manual buckets.

 

[RawbDidIt]

While I've been planning all of this, I forgot to figure out how much power I'm going to need. Does anybody know where to get a dual alternator kit that doesn't cost as much as a high output from Mechman? I also plan on running HID lamps in the future, since the stock lights suck.

 

[RawbDidIt]

I'm pretty sure the buckets are manual. Again, one of those things that would be much easier if the truck were here instead of 1,000 miles away. June cannot come soon enough.

 

[df2x4]

While I've been planning all of this, I forgot to figure out how much power I'm going to need. Does anybody know where to get a dual alternator kit that doesn't cost as much as a high output from Mechman? I also plan on running HID lamps in the future, since the stock lights suck.

Anything dual alt is going to be expensive as hell. IMO you're better off with a single high output unit. General rule of thumb for how much power you need from the alt, check what your amps are fused for and add that to your factory alt's capabilities. For example, if you have a 120A alt, and there are three 30A fuses in your amps, you need 90A on top of what your factory alt is capable of.

Don't go HID. You will be the guy on the road who everyone hates. There's a giant thread on here about headlight upgrades.

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/spyder-headlamps-my-take-on-em-and-lighting-in-general.36647/

Long and short of it is this. You need either the Spyder or Anzo housings we talk about in that thread, a heavy duty harness to run everything, and a good set of either factory halogen bulbs, or HIR high beam bulbs (NOT low beams) with trimmed tabs if you want to get fancy.

I had to bend a tab for the tension spring, essentially reversing it from sticking downwards to sticking upwards. The seat works as normal having done this.

I might have a mock up picture somewhere, it's easier when you remove the seat itself from the base, leaving the base in place. Note: you will only be able to do this if you have manual buckets.

I would love to see this... If I could add my spring back under the driver's sat I'd be extremely happy!

 

[michael hurd]

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I had to bend a tab for the tension spring, essentially reversing it from sticking downwards to sticking upwards. The seat works as normal having done this.

I might have a mock up picture somewhere, it's easier when you remove the seat itself from the base, leaving the base in place. Note: you will only be able to do this if you have manual buckets.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[michael hurd]

The beat up Kenwood in the picture was the same size as the one I mounted under the seat. Having all the connections on one end makes life easier.

 

[DaltonB98]

Whenever I get off work I can try and take pictures of mine, I still have the back seat for the same reason. Big ass dog, and I live near kids who like to do hoodrat things so I don't want them stealing it. I had them under the front seats but I didn't have bucket seats and it was to cramped for my liking so I made them fit in the back.

 

[RawbDidIt]

Lights are a low priority, the truck has like-new lights on it now, so I'll probably just upgrade the bulbs straight off. Good advice on the lights though. I'll definitely look into that when the time comes. I'm flying up there tomorrow, so I'll have some insight as to what is and isn't possible by the end of the weekend.

 

[RawbDidIt]

After finally seeing my truck, there are some limiting factors, and as such, I've gone off the deep end and decided to do something I've never done before. Firstly, I knew the area under the rear seat was minimal at best, but I had no idea just how little room there actually was. Secondly, it turns out, I DO have power seats (full power adjustable driver, power lumbar for the passenger), which means the amp under the driver seat is not going to happen.

So, I've decided to build a center console with a sub enclosure and a spot underneath for the amps. Problem solved. Here's my updated parts list, minus the custom box, obviously. I'll write up a build log for that when I start that project.

Head unit: Kenwood DDX574BH http://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/navigation_multimedia/ddx574bh/
Sub amp: Kicker CXA600.1 http://www.kicker.com/43CXA6001
4 channel amp: Pioneer GM-D8604 http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8604
Front speakers: 2x Sony XS-GS0621 http://www.sony.com/electronics/car-speakers/xs-gs1621
Rear speakers: 2x Alpine SPS-410 http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/sps-410
Sub: Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3d4-12
Sub box: Custom
Backup camera

Price list (in case anybody wants to duplicate). Prices in US dollar, and based on MSRP. If I get the system, I'll put price list for price I actually paid.
Head Unit: $329.99
Sub amp: $250.00
4 channel amp: $220
Front speakers: $119.99
Rear speakers: $80.00
Sub: $250.00
Sub box: TBD
Backup camera: $50
Total: $1299.98 + enclosure materials, taxes, shipping and handling.

I figure the materials for the box shouldn't cost more than $100 including foam and vinyl. I'll try and figure out a way to include some cupholders for the back as well. The only real question I have now is do I make the sub fire down, or fire towards the rear?