Another aluminum head question.

[L31MaxExpress]

So, I just wanted to post an update on this. My aluminum heads keep getting pushed back by the manufacture. First it was August, now September. Next thing I know, it'll be next year.

Surely there's another option? Something that's already in stock?

I see these, but comparing the specs with the Trick Flow heads, they are inferior. They are also roller cam heads. I'm NOT tearing that new cam out.

Flotek 101-505 FLOTEK 180cc Small Block Chevy Cylinder Heads | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - FLOTEK 180cc Small Block Chevy Cylinder Heads with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Cylinder Heads at Summit Racing.

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Get a set of DNA or Assault racing castings off Amazon or Ebay and put decent parts in them. I bought a Competition Products head improvement kit for mine for valves, springs, etc and Comp spring seats and ARP rocker arm studs. I have built 2 pair of them this way and they work great. For the $ they are a really nice set of heads. A little sanding roll cleanup and a performance valve job on them and they outflow GM Fastburns for half the money. I had Lloyd Elliot port the pair now on my 383 and they outflow the AFR 195 vortecs by a substantial margin.

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[Hipster]

These are a good American made option, although not without their own issues. Intake and valve cover bolt patterns and no provision for egr. But they are a good head, and there doesn’t seem to be a good, affordable replacement for tbi’s.

CHEVROLET Brodix Cylinder Heads 1021004 Brodix Cylinder Heads IK 180 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Chevy | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Brodix Cylinder Heads IK 180 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Chevy with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Cylinder Heads at Summit Racing.

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Pretty sure the IK series is an import casting Brodix came up with to compete with other brands selling import castings.

 

[SNCTMPL]

Pretty sure the IK series is an import casting Brodix came up with to compete with other brands selling import castings.

According to Brodix and Eric Weingartner they are cast and machined in Mena, Arkansas.

 

[Hipster]

According to Brodix and Eric Weingartner they are cast and machined in Mena, Arkansas.

I came across one of his videos where he compares the ik head to another import and a Dart shp 180. He didn't mention anything about the ik being a USA casting, Maybe a different video. Looking at Brodix pages they mention their foundry in some product descriptions but not others. What's interesting is the dart 180 flowed just about the same as the other two with 20 cfm less volume. I'll take the smaller port with the better velocity and better efficiency almost every single time for a street engine. While he said they were of good quality and an easy way to get to 400 horse, he built his 406 dyno mule and was belting out 550-5650hp and almost 540 ft lbs for 38-39? runs doing an intake comparison. He equipped his own stuff, this 406 11.2 comp. dyno mule, with unported AFR enforcers and that also speaks volumes.

 

[Schurkey]

He wanted it running ASAP. Nothin' wrong with stock iron manifolds when used as a temporary "get-it-running" item, assuming they're not warped, still flat, etc.

I have never seen the big torque gains from headers that you've seen, at least on stock, or near-stock vehicles. Add some RPM, and that changes if tuned properly.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

He wanted it running ASAP. Nothin' wrong with stock iron manifolds when used as a temporary "get-it-running" item, assuming they're not warped, still flat, etc.

I have never seen the big torque gains from headers that you've seen, at least on stock, or near-stock vehicles. Add some RPM, and that changes if tuned properly.

I have had a stretch more than one used set and have the tool to do it.

I have never put headers on a vehicle and not had noticeable power gains. Time and time again I have experienced more low-mid range torque gains than HP gains from headers. Shorties generally see the bulk of the gains at higher rpm, but tri-ys and correctly sized 4-1 long tubes gain practically off-idle. Problem there is some people believe bigger is better and kill scavenging bolting 1-3/4" primaries on a stock 283 or 2" primaries on a 5.3L.

 

[Scooterwrench]

I've always believed do the best you can with what you've got. 1.94's are all you need for a street engine and done correctly will outflow bone stock 2.02's and give you more off the stop sign torque.

First blow your heads apart and check your valve guides for wear and mic the stems. Chances are pretty good you'll be tossing the valves. This modern dry fuel is hell on stems. If you have the tools try your hand at porting and more importantly port matching. A die grinder and two egg shaped rotary files,one long and one short are the only tools you need for porting. If your heads have that "venturi" under the intake seats grind that flow restricting POS out of there being careful not to nick the seats. If they have that "spinner" leave that but smooth it. Smooth the intake and exhaust ports but don't hog them out. You can polish the exhaust ports to help reduce carbon buildup but leave a little texture in the intake ports to create boundary layer turbulence. Airfoil the guide bosses to smooth the airflow around them. I'm guessing you don't have valve grinding equipment so you'll have to farm that out. A basic good valve job is all you'll need. Whether you buy performance heads or do your own you're gonna find that stock cam ain't gonna cut it. What's going to happen is your motor will pull like a mule till about 4800rpm then go flat like you're dragging an anchor. I have fallen in love with the Lunati cam that starts pulling at about 1500 and is supposed to top out at 5700. It has asymmetric lobes so a little lope at idle but still good vacuum. I'm running one in my 355 and I don't know where that cam quits,ain't willing to turn the motor that fast. I know it puts your head against the seat at every shift with 2.70 gears and 81 inches of rubber.

 

[Hipster]

I've always believed do the best you can with what you've got. 1.94's are all you need for a street engine and done correctly will outflow bone stock 2.02's and give you more off the stop sign torque.

First blow your heads apart and check your valve guides for wear and mic the stems. Chances are pretty good you'll be tossing the valves. This modern dry fuel is hell on stems. If you have the tools try your hand at porting and more importantly port matching. A die grinder and two egg shaped rotary files,one long and one short are the only tools you need for porting. If your heads have that "venturi" under the intake seats grind that flow restricting POS out of there being careful not to nick the seats. If they have that "spinner" leave that but smooth it. Smooth the intake and exhaust ports but don't hog them out.

Kinda like this. The grass roots hot rodding approach. I get into other stuff besides chevys where you can't buy an aftermarket casting for $300 and go from there so often you're working stock stuff to get a bit more oomph. If I was going for the cheap I probably be scrounging a set of tpi heads to do this to. Ones that didn't need everything. Surface , vj, new valves, do all the tricks and tips a diy guy can do, clean up bolt on and go. From experience an extra .0005 valve to guide clearance don't make much difference other than you don't have to worry about sticking it in the hole at 7k rpm's if running pc seals.

I always think back to what stock eliminator guys and Stock Class claimer guys are doing with their stuff. Lift limited, rules limited, mostly stock castings with all the tips, tricks, etc and their stuff runs hard.

 

[Hipster]

I have had a stretch more than one used set and have the tool to do it.

I have never put headers on a vehicle and not had noticeable power gains. Time and time again I have experienced more low-mid range torque gains than HP gains from headers. Shorties generally see the bulk of the gains at higher rpm, but tri-ys and correctly sized 4-1 long tubes gain practically off-idle. Problem there is some people believe bigger is better and kill scavenging bolting 1-3/4" primaries on a stock 283 or 2" primaries on a 5.3L.

A little better than manifolds with shorties is better than too much, Need to keep velocities in check both in and out. Bell mouthing port windows, A .560 lift cam in a head that falls on it's face at .500, reversion in the intake tract or exhaust, Intake charge dilution, pressure pulses, blah, blah, blah. Less is sometimes more.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

A .560 lift cam in a head that falls on it's face at .500

Like on an L31 Vortec head?

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