'96 2-Door Tahoe Daily Driver

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kolgeirr

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Another day of work on the Tahoe completed - new exhaust day!

The prior owner had a custom exhaust on it. Workman ship was.. questionable, and clearly the elements were not kind to the mild steel tubing they decided to use. The rearmost hanger was barely attached, having been rusted all the way through most of the way around, and the middle hangar was rusted entirely through.
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With my brand new Gibson 615501 in hand I got to the install - but as usual, nothing ever goes to plan. Two of the three nuts on the exhaust flange studs were equally rusted and had become part of the studs. Despite soaking them for a few days in PBlaster and a lot of propane torch action I broke two of the three studs. Working to knock out the remaining portions I discovered that the same guys that did this fine exhaust also decided to weld the studs into the flange while they were busy with the hack job on the rest of it.

So I gave up, and taking inspiration from those replace-a-bolt clamp brackets for the exhaust manifolds on a 5.3, I did what any reasonably lazy GMT400 owner that didn't want to do more work or drive to an exhaust shop for another butcher job would do - I ordered a boatload of tiny stainless clamps, busted out the 1/2" drive ratchet, and clamped the absolute hell out of that flange using the remainders of the two broken studs as locator pins.
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To my absolute amazement, this actually works great. Thing leaks less than the flange on the Suburban, and that flange is brand new. Three days of driving on pavement, washboard dirt roads, and over speed bumps and potholes and the clamps haven't moved at all. While I really can't recommend you do this, if someone else wants in on this absolute foolishness let me know and I can link the clamps.

Also, Gibson's measurements must be wonky, because the tailpipe exited right under the rear leaf spring shackle, resulting in the tip being half-way to the ground during test fits, despite all my connections being slammed all the way home. A few seconds with a hacksaw resulted in a pretty sick 45 degree dump behind the axle at the level of the fuel tank. Close enough to send the gasses past the body just fine, and keeps me from having to clean mud off a polished tip.
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The next day, a familiar smell returned to the truck - the smell of a leaking rear glass/tailgate seal having soaked the cargo area carpet, yet again. New rear weatherstrip comes tomorrow, hopefully that fixes it, because it would be really nice to take it places when it's raining.

Oh, also got it aligned again, and the steering finally feels true. Still heavier than I expected it to be, but at least it doesn't wander anymore and the play in the steering has gone. I'll take it and call it good enough.
 

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GoToGuy

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Rather than breaking studs that won't endure 250 ft lbs of removal torque. Consider a technique that just attacks the nut alone. Nutcracker, small hand hacksaw and small cold chisel, small abrasive cutoff wheel. Not an air hammer.
 

kolgeirr

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Rather than breaking studs that won't endure 250 ft lbs of removal torque. Consider a technique that just attacks the nut alone. Nutcracker, small hand hacksaw and small cold chisel, small abrasive cutoff wheel. Not an air hammer.
A better, wiser, more patient man than I would have certainly tried that. To my defense, the first one came off easy. The same amount of torque applied to the second broke the stud, and judging by the remains of the stud left inside the nut, the previous guy removed the last set of nuts with a grinder and then used the new nuts to cut his own threads into a mangled stud. At that point I assumed that the third would either come off fine or be equally manged and it was, indeed, equally manged.

As in all things, I blame the previous owner and decline any responsibility for my actions.
 

Kchevys

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Enjoyed reading your thread so far. I am on my second 2 door.....never should have sold the first one. Probably would have a build thread on mine but I did it before I started posting on GMT400. Pretty much replaced everything you have plus a LS swap. How does your Gibson sound? I have a stainless Gibson cat back on mine and it drones terribly. It does exit the rear right where it should. Currently at the upholstery shop getting a new headliner and carpet. I have been thinking about swapping mufflers when I get it back.
 

kolgeirr

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Enjoyed reading your thread so far. I am on my second 2 door.....never should have sold the first one. Probably would have a build thread on mine but I did it before I started posting on GMT400. Pretty much replaced everything you have plus a LS swap. How does your Gibson sound? I have a stainless Gibson cat back on mine and it drones terribly. It does exit the rear right where it should. Currently at the upholstery shop getting a new headliner and carpet. I have been thinking about swapping mufflers when I get it back.
Thanks! I need to remember to update my threads more often.

This one is also a stainless Gibson catback - 615501. No drone so far, though I haven't had it over 60MPH yet, and I'm really hoping it doesn't. I have a Magnaflow catback and Magnaflow direct-fit cats on my Suburban and it drones horribly between 2000-2200 RPM. I noticed in the reviews for the Gibson on Summit that another guy had mentioned awful drone when combined with the same Magnaflow cats I have on the Suburban - if you have the same cats and drone, it's probably the cats.

Sound is great - despite being a 350 it's got that deep big block rumble, and it's not obnoxiously loud. I'd say a bit louder than stock, but not as loud as any of the straight-through mufflers I've had on trucks over the years. The muffler design has the In and Out fittings offset from each other, and each inlet and the outlet have a small glass-pack looking muffler section on the inside, so the exhaust path is like this with no hard baffles:
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Sound is somewhere between a baffled performance muffler and a straight-through, if you've heard both. Knocks down the high range and pops, but keeps the deep tones.

Also, to anyone looking at this or trying to install a 615501, note that the parts diagrams (including that above picture even) from Gibson have the flange pipe and muffler depicted upside-down. Dual inlets go down, single outlet on top, pipes sweep down after the crossmember. Won't fit in the other way, but might save you some frustration or effort in the attempt.
 
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