'93 K1500 engine swap

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Trlrider

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Morning all!

In the process of pulling the stock 5.7 tbi out of the Suburban and putting a nearly new GM Crate engine in it. The stock 5.7 tbi engine runs okay, but oil pressure is getting lower then I like and instead sinking money into it with crappy heads on top and unknown mileage, decided to put my new crate in it. The original owner loved Pennzoil for some reason and the engine showed it. Despite recorded oil changes every 3500 miles (according to the trucks ledger) it was still sludged up from top to bottom when I got it.


The Crate is the standard GM 10067353. Only 10k on it since it was installed in my K5 a few years ago. The K5 was totaled last March thanks to a idiot that choose not to yield right of way at a intersection.

Going into the '93 K1500 Suburban the 5.7 crate 10067353 is will have:
Untouched heads (882) and original cam for the time being. The cam is not much different from the TBI cam. Just better heads and Intake.
4BBL to TBI adapter: Painless Performance TBI Adapter 60118 (choose this one because I did not want warping issues) Intake has been been opened slightly to make the openings in the spacer.
Spacer: A Taylor Helix Power Tower (was under the TBI already in the truck. Actually noticed a improved fuel mileage when it was installed.
Headers: 1 5/8 shorty's for the time being.
Exhaust: stock Y-pipe (for now) CAT was gone long before I purchased the truck.
Transmission: Original 4L60E - unknown mileage for now. I have a new Monster Transmission 700R4 coming out of the K5 that may find it's way into the Sub eventually.
ECU: 16168625 with a BLCP marked memcal


I do not expect any major hurdles regarding the tune getting it in and running this weekend if I get all the sensors in the correct place and the initial timing correct.
My biggest concern is the better intake, head combination with the stock TBI and fuel ratio's.

Here is the Question:
Does anyone see a reason why the MAP sensor and O2 would not be able to adjust accordingly for the short term until some logging can be done and a new chip burned?

Have been studying TBI for months, but still not sure how smooth this will work for initial startup.
Not looking for a powerhouse stump puller, just a solid DD with somewhat decent economy for a big tank like the K1500 Sub!|
Once the base swap is done and smoothed out, will more then likely install a better cam and Vortec heads (on the bench)! A new fuel pump is also in the cards, as I have no idea at what point this one was replace. The Original owner (I am the 2nd Owner) of the truck knew he had it replaced, but did not remember the mileage. The engine had been rebuilt at some point also, and again, no one knows at what mileage. The odometer shows it has 365k on the chassis.

Thanks!
 

DerekTheGreat

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What was actually wrong with the existing engine? Did it burn oil, foul plugs or make noise? The oil pressure gage/sending units in these things are pretty inaccurate, just a bit better and cooler than a dummy light. So, just because it indicates lower pressure might not mean too much. For example, my wife's '92 indicates 40-45psi when cold. When hot? 10 to 15. No noise, no oil consumption and the plugs look great. Odometer reads 220kish miles now. It wasn't sludgy inside though, only peeped through the oil cap. Anyway, the "low" oil pressure doesn't bother me one bit given the other signs are positive. Hook a mechanical gauge to it and see what that tells you.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Does anyone see a reason why the MAP sensor and O2 would not be able to adjust accordingly for the short term until some logging can be done and a new chip burned?
The short term and long term fueling only happens in Closed Loop, otherwise you're running directly off your VE tables in Open Loop. You may be able to get away with it since, right now you're not too much different than stock.
You can always jack up your fuel pressure a little to make it happy.:waytogo:
 

Erik the Awful

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I'd keep the current motor until it reads less than 5 psi at idle.

Be sure and drill the coolant bypass holes in the Vortec heads to make then more interchangeable, or you have to run the Vortec water pump as well. They'll also need a Vortec-specific manifold.
 

Trlrider

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Current engine operating temp reading 6 psi @ idle 28 psi @ 2000 rpm at the port at the oil filter. Had a cold rod knock when it first started up. It was not making noise and ran okay. I just have a newer that did not have a home since the other truck was totaled. I cannot sell it for what was invested, so it is going in this truck.
This truck will be going on two long trips this summer totaling over 4000 miles and the added power of the fresher engine will come in handy.
I have built performance carburetor engines for 40 years, and anything less then 20 psi at operating temp is too low for me.

I have a fresher engine sitting doing nothing, thus it is time to swap this one out before it destroys itself. At this point I have a buyer for the TBI engine coming out, and he plans to put bearings in it before dropping it in his old beater.

What was actually wrong with the existing engine? Did it burn oil, foul plugs or make noise? The oil pressure gage/sending units in these things are pretty inaccurate, just a bit better and cooler than a dummy light. So, just because it indicates lower pressure might not mean too much. For example, my wife's '92 indicates 40-45psi when cold. When hot? 10 to 15. No noise, no oil consumption and the plugs look great. Odometer reads 220kish miles now. It wasn't sludgy inside though, only peeped through the oil cap. Anyway, the "low" oil pressure doesn't bother me one bit given the other signs are positive. Hook a mechanical gauge to it and see what that tells you.
What was actually wrong with the existing engine? Did it burn oil, foul plugs or make noise? The oil pressure gage/sending units in these things are pretty inaccurate, just a bit better and cooler than a dummy light. So, just because it indicates lower pressure might not mean too much. For example, my wife's '92 indicates 40-45psi when cold. When hot? 10 to 15. No noise, no oil consumption and the plugs look great. Odometer reads 220kish miles now. It wasn't sludgy inside though, only peeped through the oil cap. Anyway, the "low" oil pressure doesn't bother me one bit given the other signs are positive. Hook a mechanical gauge to it and see what that tells you.
 

Trlrider

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The short term and long term fueling only happens in Closed Loop, otherwise you're running directly off your VE tables in Open Loop. You may be able to get away with it since, right now you're not too much different than stock.
You can always jack up your fuel pressure a little to make it happy.:waytogo:

Thanks! Was pretty sure where we were starting. I have a ALDL cable in route to do some logging once it is running.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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ECU: 16168625 with a BLCP marked memcal
I have a ALDL cable in route to do some logging once it is running.
Some info that may help (if you haven't already seen this), I don't see your BLCP.bin though.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?336-16168625-PCM-Information-E6

Other source for the definition file(s) for your 8625 (if you plan on using TunerProRT.v5xxx
http://www.tunerpro.net/downloadBinDefs.htm#GM
 

Trlrider

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I'd keep the current motor until it reads less than 5 psi at idle.

I think I will pass on this piece of advice. It is currently less then 10 psi port at the oil filter boss @ operating temp and idle, does not leave much for it once it gets to the cam.

I will look you up when I need advice on how long to run on bald tires though! LOL!
 

Trlrider

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Be sure and drill the coolant bypass holes in the Vortec heads to make then more interchangeable, or you have to run the Vortec water pump as well. They'll also need a Vortec-specific manifold.

We have never found a need to drill the heads and usually plug the bypass port anyway if using the Vortec water pump. We have done an old stock car trick from decades back, and put steam lines on the rear of the head and tie them into the thermostat housing. Drilling a couple of 3/16" holes in the thermostat also eliminates the need for the bypass.
Have yet to have a failure on a Vortec Head conversion using Edelbrock intakes.
 

Trlrider

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Some info that may help (if you haven't already seen this), I don't see your BLCP.bin though.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?336-16168625-PCM-Information-E6

Other source for the definition file(s) for your 8625 (if you plan on using TunerProRT.v5xxx
http://www.tunerpro.net/downloadBinDefs.htm#GM

Thanks, I am on Gearhead allot researching and yes, that BLCP is a odd duck. It is the one in the truck. I do have 3 other memcals with different .bins that are supported. Also have a 7427 that uses the same memcal. So once it gets to the point of playing with it, there are options.



My neighbor done the road has some of the Moates gear, and he has offered to help.

I also have Tuner Pro RT that I have been playing around with my LS based 5.3 in another truck.
 
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