93 4L60e to 4L80e

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Chewy1576

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STOP USING TBI CHIPS HACK JOB!!!!!!!!!!

people gearheadefi.com cmon, Its stupid easy to adjust the computer for 4l80e compatibility talk to the guys on there. i did it in two 93s and a buddys old 89. retained the factory computer. OBD1 is more advnaced that most of you know. Fuel saver mode, fan control etc. No one takes the time to understand it.

This! ^^^


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TylerZ281500

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Geez i leave the page for a year and people start tossing around TBIchips again, thought i rid this community of that guys crap

Why take it to a reputable shop? i dont think many people understand that a perfectly straight driveshaft only needs weight to offset machine error of yolk wieght and tube wight. which only takes a few ounces. the three critical zones at each weld yolk and center ensure a straight driveshaft. chopping yours down and welding it back together means your likely waiting for your output bearing/bushing/ seal to wear out quick, excessive imbalance (which just balancing wont fix), etc. get it done right. Call CCI driveline in michigan, i worked there, you want a damn near perfect driveshaft give them a call. Want references 75% of nascar is using them, those engines spin to what 9k, now take into account how much the driveshaft is after it comes out of the output. All the monster jam guys, USA1 etc all use em. Just saying.
 

SierraDully

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also do not shorten a driveshaft yourself, its asking for trouble

I have to agree with TylerZ281500, it's asking for trouble if you don't know what you're doing.

I've had a few customers come in the door looking for driveshaft work. That's coming in the door of a structural steel fab shop. Ive turned most away. Only do the ones that customers agree to the "should never be used" line on their invoice.
Not hard to shorten or lengthen a drive shaft but the problem we've had has been the balance. There are little weights on most of the ones I've seen. They are added when the drive shaft gets balanced. We can cut it and weld it and make it square and true but if you are out of balance we can't help you. I've heard of Vibration issues at speed. If it's a mud truck guys don't usually care. But a highway driver can be an issue.
Now some of the ones we've done, customers haven't had problems with. But it's hit or miss. If it was me, I'd try to do it myself and then bring it to a driveshaft shop to make sure it's balanced if I had problems. But if you don't have a lot of steel fab experience then it'll probably be cheaper to bring to a driveshaft shop than to spend your time getting everything perfect. Has to be tacked up perfectly square and straight and must be done in such a way so as it does not move during welding (from the heat). Also need a good solid weld on there. A lot of torque goes through that shaft. Not a job I'd do with a garage model gas-less flux core welder from princess auto or Canadian Tire or some similar pos. But if you have the right equipment and know-how, it's not that hard.

Edit:after re-reading my post, I just want to make clear that my opinion is a general opinion. I don't know what experience OP has, and I'm certainly not implying that the OP doesn't know what they are doing. For all I know the OP has been doing steel work longer than I have.
 

Texcuda

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oh my my eyesight, still dont need an aftermarket controller though. waste of money at this point

I don't know. To be able to get rid of the drac completely and simplify wiring in the truck for future mods, it seems like going with an aftermarket controller may ultimately be simpler. Not to mention sourcing a good TBI computer for a 4L80 in the junkyard.
 

TylerZ281500

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swap tunes around and all of 3 wires, run a tps and call it a day doesnt sound easier than spending 400+ on a new controller and rewiring a truck?

TBI wiring is already pathetically simple and stoneage with a ton of benefits and perks if you actually look into it. no real reason not to utilize it.
 
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