4l60e angle

[TylerZ281500]

he can lover the case that would be his absolute best and truly proper only option, sure you can make it all goofy and lower the trans like and inch and a half with barely any bushing but it will in no way be proper, im not seeing the issue honestly

your building something that never came from factory, your engine and trans are how they are suppose to be setup in every sense, its proper, leave it alone. if your hoping to slap a tcase in there and be done with some crappy crossmember be my guest but i sincerely wish you the best. the virtue of a divorced case is you have the free range of movement to measure and place it where it needs to be. i dont get how the case is as high as it can go theres ways around that, clock the case, body lift, swap cases, start cutting etc etc. you doing something one off that means every problem that arises is not as simple as drop the trans down a hair, you have to once agian go and measure, cut weld, think of a different solution.

 

[98_k1500]

http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?28764-Dodge-divorced-np205&highlight=vibration

This was the original post.

 

[TylerZ281500]

okay, so all my thoughts

A) why is your intermediate sticking out that far of the trans?
B) as weve established yea your angle is garbage, looks like the only thing from making that case go up is the crossmember in itself, while the crossmember looks goo its too bulk and not giving you any range of movement, redesign that make the case come back up, um if you were to adress your driveshaft issues youd have to make new ones again. other than that it would fix your angle issues, now to check your driveshafts for runout get a dial indicator with a nice magnetic base, clean the area closest to the weld by each yolk and check your runout, typicall no more than 5 thousands isnt anything to worry about, more than that mark where the high point is and check it agains the otherside.

theres 3 critical points in a driveshaft minus slip yolk center of tube, both weld yolks, the slip yolk if it has machining error can be a problem so take the same magnetic base dial indicator place the point of the indicator on the center of the u joint, write down what its at, flip 180 and check that one, next flip it 90 check that one write it down and fli 180 again. any play in u joints especially since you know have 4 rear joints instead of 2, is there error in the case itself? (chain slack, worn or bent gear, who the hell knows) slip n stub, theres typicalls a bit of play not much, so a little is no worry, alot is definitely a problem, rear end can cause vibration, tires can cause vibration etc. im coming to the party late, so i apologize for sounding rude, i was unware of the other thread but i still say hell no to moving your trans downward...........still not a good idea

 

[98_k1500]

Moving the trans down some will push that intermediate shaft back into the trans some. Do you think it would be that hard to get the right angle on the case after dropping the trans some? Could probably save having new shafts made again. I don't think its going to take too terribly much to get it right. If you lower the trans some, then you can lower the rear of the transfer some to correct the output to input angle. This will also reduce the overall angle of the intermediate shaft.

 

[TylerZ281500]

i dont understand why they look to be improperly made in the first place, i cantattest for the rear as that comes with the amount of travel but a proper slip yolk should not be sticking out that far unless its too long and already bottomed out. moving the trans down will still not correct any angle because it will still be at angle, if you have it all setup perfectly (theres room for some error not much) you wouldnt have worry about a vibration due to geometry so that could be scratched off your list immediately and start looking at other options.

the reason i say that is because even if you move the trans downward your now entering the trans as part of driveline geometry where it should be stationary, it now has angle, as does the everything else, if anything your adding to the problem because you still have improper angle where you shouldnt have any.

can you do it? sure, can it work? sure stranger things have happened. but is it right? not one bit

 

[98_k1500]

If it was mine, i'd have to move it down a little and shim the transfer (probably trial and error) and see what seemed to lessen the vibration, and continue adjusting according to that.

 

[TylerZ281500]

even with that both will run an angle and be more headache than its worth id think, cut that top brace out and redo it and give you that room to move the case up. theres no good way of doing it cheap besides the improper shim and angle thing, theres already quite a few things that look suspect to issues.

 

[Eskimomann209]

All was taken into consideration gentleman
Thanks
I adjusted the transfer case I had spacers made out of tubing dropping the t case so I could have enough clearance for the linkage

After removing the spacers I as able to move the t case up about 3/4 of an inch
I also left the back spacers about 1/4 in longer than the front creating a slight angle which turned out to be 2 degrees. Visually you can't even see it
I also slid the crossmember back 4 inches to help lengthen the angle

Now as for the slip on the transmission that's the way the gentleman made it
No it is not bottoming out
As for that
I brought it up to him for when he remakes my intermediate shaft

Thanks guys

 

[Eskimomann209]

^^ the problem is his divorce mounted case is up as high as it can possibly go and the input shaft is still lower than the output of the trans. Its making his intermediate shaft have too much of an angle. He will have to lower the trans some, then shim the case to get the output of the trans parallel to the input of the transfer.

This is pretty close to what fixed the issue
Plus raising crossmember a bit and sliding it back as much as rear driveline would allow without the need of a retube/ cut

 

[Eskimomann209]

Oh and still waiting on shifters