4.3L to ?? swap.

[DeCaff2007]

"Soft plugs" are stamped sheetmetal. Often called "freeze plugs" which is silly, or more-accurately "core plugs". In smaller sizes, they seal oil galleries, but not threaded oil galleries.

If it's threaded like that one, it's generically a "tapered pipe-thread plug". There are other thread styles for plugs, (straight pipe thread, metric pipe thread, O-ring Boss, etc.) but they're not applicable to iron SBC blocks.



What intake manifold are you using with those Flotech heads?

Yes this one is threaded. It fit perfectly. Either way, I guess this is a tomato-tomato instance.

What intake? The only one I have - the stock TBI intake. Yes, I've read the issues with bolt angles.

I guess we'll see what happens.

 

[DeCaff2007]

So... those heads came in and are bolted on. I fully expected to have to modify the intake to make the 4 center bolts line up.

Yup, sure had to do that.

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I didn't even want to post this pic, as it looks worse than it is. These bolts are NOT cross threaded. This is just showing pics of what everyone already knew. They still torqued down fine and I've cleaned up how things look since then.

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Next I went ahead and checked if the stock push rods will work. You can just barely make out the mark that the rocker arm made on the valve stem in the foreground. Alas, the factory push rods are too short. I have two different length checkers. They are both too long....

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So, I made my own push rod checker, et voila....

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The new push rod length measures in at 7.944. The mark on the valve stem is, for my liking, still a hair too far to the right. I've read that it's common practice to strive for +/- 0.05"

With that, I'm ordering a length of 7.9".

Oh, and another thing. Are the guide plates on these heads really necessary? It seems like all they are going to do is bind up on the push rods, no matter where I adjust the guides. I tried taking just ONE guide out but then the rocker arm bolt bottoms out inside the head before going flush. That would mean using a pretty specific thickness washer to compensate for that. I'm not going through all that just to delete the guides.

LoL yet another question: While I have the headers off, I guess now would be good time to install some sort of oil pressure gauge... right about where this brass plug is. Suggestions?

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[Orpedcrow]

Are the guide plates on these heads really necessary?

Yes, if you don’t have self-aligning rocker arms. (Little nubbins on either side of the contact point for the valve stem)

If you don’t have self-aligning rockers, and continue to use the guide plates, make sure to order hardened pushrods.

 

[Schurkey]

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You absolutely, positively MUST use the wedge-washers under those bolts, or you'll eventually fatigue them, and the heads will pop off.

Most folks have given-up on the rubber intake manifold end-seals, and are using a bead of RTV Silicone instead. If those seals fit...fine. In many cases when the heads and/or block have been milled, the rubber seals hold the intake manifold up too high. RTV Silicone is more forgiving.

As said, if you have pushrod guideplates, you MUST NOT use self-aligning rocker arms, and you MUST have hardened pushrods. Guideplates OR self-aligning rockers--either one, not both.

Don't you already have an oil-pressure gauge on the dash? Why buy another if the one you have is working?

Are you adjusting the pushrod length for the "most-centered" pattern, or for the "most-narrow" pattern? The goal is "most narrow" provided it doesn't go off the edge of the valve tip.

What are you using for valve covers? Will your fancy aftermarket ones fit those heads?

 

[tayto]

So... those heads came in and are bolted on. I fully expected to have to modify the intake to make the 4 center bolts line up.

Yup, sure had to do that.

You must be registered for see images attach

I didn't even want to post this pic, as it looks worse than it is. These bolts are NOT cross threaded. This is just showing pics of what everyone already knew. They still torqued down fine and I've cleaned up how things look since then.

You must be registered for see images attach

Next I went ahead and checked if the stock push rods will work. You can just barely make out the mark that the rocker arm made on the valve stem in the foreground. Alas, the factory push rods are too short. I have two different length checkers. They are both too long....

You must be registered for see images attach

So, I made my own push rod checker, et voila....

You must be registered for see images attach

The new push rod length measures in at 7.944. The mark on the valve stem is, for my liking, still a hair too far to the right. I've read that it's common practice to strive for +/- 0.05"

With that, I'm ordering a length of 7.9".

Oh, and another thing. Are the guide plates on these heads really necessary? It seems like all they are going to do is bind up on the push rods, no matter where I adjust the guides. I tried taking just ONE guide out but then the rocker arm bolt bottoms out inside the head before going flush. That would mean using a pretty specific thickness washer to compensate for that. I'm not going through all that just to delete the guides.

LoL yet another question: While I have the headers off, I guess now would be good time to install some sort of oil pressure gauge... right about where this brass plug is. Suggestions?

You must be registered for see images attach

you want to go for a narrower pattern vs fat and wide in the middle. checking with stamped steel rockers wont make a very good pattern either. also with guide plates dont run self aligning rockers. with a decked blocked, and valve job my push rods were only .050" bigger than stock.

also are you checking with a lifter that has a solid spacer install in it?

 

[DeCaff2007]

Ok wow. I didn't think I was going to take such a badgering for my push rod length methods. I'm doing the best I can with what I have here. How exactly am I supposed to get a narrow pattern? It looked just fine to me.

So.. I don't need guide plates if I have self-aligning rockers. I'll check that in the morning, but I don't think they are.

Are hardened and chrome moly the same thing? That's what was available on Rock Auto.

As for the rubber gaskets on the ends of the intake - I swear by those! I won't use RTV in place of those rubber gaskets because all it does is smear around and make a mess (especially by the firewall) when trying to install and line up the intake.

I'll put dabs by the corners of said gaskets to hold the larger intake gaskets in place, but that's it.

@Schurkey yes my "fancy valve covers" will work with these heads. My Hedman headers line right up, too.

Meh, I'm too tired right now to think anymore for tonight.

 

[Schurkey]

How exactly am I supposed to get a narrow pattern? It looked just fine to me.

Maybe that is the best you'll get.

I use an adjustable pushrod, and cycle through various lengths until I see what's working best on intake and exhaust #1. There's three different ways to measure a hollow pushrod, so use the method the pushrod supplier uses. Then I have to compensate for lifter preload before ordering the "correct" length. On a small-block, the pushrod lengths should be the same I and E. It's not a lot of fun. And then I do it again on cyl. 6, just to make sure the block is even side-to-side. In the end, plus-or-minus up to .025 is fine, because pushrods should be available in .050 increments.

So.. I don't need guide plates if I have self-aligning rockers. I'll check that in the morning, but I don't think they are.

OK.

Are hardened and chrome moly the same thing? That's what was available on Rock Auto.

Yeah, that'll be fine.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

When/if you pull the guide plates you need 7/16" hardened washers to get your spacing back. They're available on Summit Racing.

 

[DeCaff2007]

When/if you pull the guise plates you need 7/16" hardened washers to get your spacing back. They're available on Summit Racing.

Why do the washers need to be hardened? They're just spacers in this case. I can get 7/16" washers at Tractor Supply FFS and not have to pay for shipping nor wait a week for the junk to come in.

Oh and BTW, my rocker arms are indeed self aligning. Those guide plates are going in the garbage.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Cheap angled bushings for intake manifold swaps. You'll have to grind out the holes to fit these, but they work.

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