1998 K2500 Single Cab Short Bed

[98_k1500]

I will probably do a build thread on this truck soon, but i want to hear what anyone else has to say about it as it actually goes together. Over the weekend i bought a 1998 single cab long bed k2500 with no engine. It has a nv4500 transmission, 4.10 gears, and a ff 14 bolt rear. The interior is pretty much shot, the body is beat up, one of the doors is blue, and it needs ball joints and a pitman arm. It has the ugly (imo) w/t grille. The gas tank is laying in the bed. In other words, I have my work cut out for me, but its a good start with the trans and the axles. I have a 1/2 ton single cab short bed donor truck that the engine, body, bumpers, and interior will come from. The only body parts that i will be keeping with the 3/4 ton is the cab itself. Both trucks are victory red. So far, the plan is to remove the front cap, change the pitman arm, then put the engine in it. After that, remove the bed and hang the short bed gas tank under it. At that point, put the new front cap on it and swap the doors, pull the dash for a power window swap, and swap the carpet and seat. By then i'll have made up my mind about which route i'll go about making it a short wheelbase and fitting the short bed to it. Any input would be appreciated. I'll try to keep pics coming if i can remember to take some, especially as we get into the short bed swap. Anyway, here she is how i bought her.

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[great white]

Not to sound negative, but I think I would be more inclined to swap the rear axle and transmission to the 1500 if that one is in good shape.

The difference between the 1500 and 2500 front differential in strength is actually pretty minimal. You can get a front limited slip for the 2500 front differential, but that just puts more stress on an already suspect component.

If making a trail rig is your goal, I still think I would use the 1500 (assuming its in good shape), swap the few bits from the 2500 and then throw a solid axle under the front. Something 8 lug to match the rear from the 2500....

 

[98_k1500]

If i was going to build a mostly off road only rig with alot of lift, I would probably go that route. My plans for it are to build a dd with 33-35 inch tires that sees some trail riding on the weekends. I really want to keep the IFS for the ride. The truck will probably see some pretty heavy towing and i'd like to keep the frame and suspension strength of the 3/4 ton. My dad built wreckers for a living and he is gonna help me do the frame chop so i don't monkey up the strength of the frame. Im also trying to keep the cost of this build under control and i already have all the parts to put the 3/4 ton together. I have done a manual trans swap on one of these trucks before and i swore it was my last. For the time bein, I just want to put my gas tank and motor in it and get it running. The body and interior will be a easy swap, just will take some time. Thanks for the input. To anyone who has converted the w/t grille to the composite headlight, would i be better off to swap the core support over while i have the fenders off? They don't look the same

 

[98_k1500]

Update: The built Vortec is out of the 1500 and in the 2500. I would add pics but so far its just been pull the motor, change the flywheel, add a pilot bushing, new clutch, and install the motor in the 2500. Plans for this afternoon is to wire it up, hang the fuel tank, run the fuel lines, and hang the exhaust. Might be ready to go for a test drive depending on how the short bed fuel tank fits the long bed.

 

[thz71]

Dounds like a lot of work haha i woulda put the 4500 and the 14b in the 1500 boxed the frame and been done with it

 

[98_k1500]

Update: The weekend did not start out so smooth. The slave cylinder started leaking and we had to pull the motor back out. Got it replaced and the motor back in. Pulled the bed off the truck and hung the swb gas tank under it. It fit like a glove. It runs nice but has a few electrical gremlins that need to be resolved. Replaced a few parts on the front end to get it road worthy and took it for a test drive. It is very strong with the 4.10 gears. The transmission and 4x4 work as they should. I took some measurements and have decided that the easiest route to get it shortened up is to move the spring hangers up the frame 14 inches and chop the back of the rails off where the swb bed will fit it. The bed will bolt directly to the factory front bed mounts. The shock mounts will have to be moved and the rear cross member has to be moved if i decide to keep the rear tire carrier. I have a buddy with a lathe we can cut the driveshaft in and put it back together correctly. I wish i had more time to work on it and get it finished sooner but my job keeps me pretty busy during the week. I will probably get the fenders, hood, grille, and interior swapped over and the electrical issues resolved before i shorten it and put my bed on it. Pics will be coming as i shorten it for the bed swap or if i find anything unusual while swapping everything over.

 

[98_k1500]

Dounds like a lot of work haha i woulda put the 4500 and the 14b in the 1500 boxed the frame and been done with it

I would have done this if i could have figured out how to make the front 8 lug. Even at that point the gears wouldn't match. I could'n figure any way that its not ALOT of work. I knew that when i took the project on.

 

[98_k1500]

Update: Traced the electrical gremlins down and it appears they reside in the ignition switch. Does anyone know how to remove the bolt in the pic? I can't find anything that fits it. It is a TINY inverted torx.

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[98_k1500]

Got it out with a baby pair of needle nose vice grips. I found some philips head machine screws to go back in it. Idk why they have to make things like this complicated. After i got the screw out, i took my switch apart just for sh!ts and giggles to see what happened. I found half the contacts were burned up.
I took some pics but now it won't let me upload them now.
Edit: these are the contacts out of my ignition switch.

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[96-1500]

Nice project. I had a similar issue with that screw-thing, you need an e-torx socket in 1/4 drive. I forget what size.
I happened to find a regular torx screw that fit over it upside down, and bent it to make a special tool to get it out.

Why aren't you keeping it long bed? Much more useful. I've done some frame hacking together before...definitely wouldn't recommend it in my opinion. It can be done well, but never as good as the factory frame.

My 2 cents. Looking forward to seeing it progress.