1995 SCSB fixer upper....

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Oldblue98

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Joined
Dec 27, 2017
Messages
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Location
Gulf Coast Florida
Thank you for the kind words,
The rears are:

Classic Torq Thrust II 17x8 5x5 5.05" Backspace
Item ID:VN2157874
Questions about this item? Be the first to ask here.
Sale Price:$130.00
Retail Price:$144.00
Your Savings:$14.00(10%)

In Stock
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Size:
17x8
Bolt Pattern:
5x127 (5x5)
Offset:
+14mm
Backspace:
5.05"
Hub Bore:
83.06mm

I copied this directly from the https://www.wheelsforless.com/ site. Great guys to deal with, it's a father/son business, very personable. When I decided to swap the 4" bs for the 5", I made a day trip to their shop. I was impressed, they are there to please. (this is not a paid endorsement!).

As for your question of the 6" drop, it would be close, probably would need to roll the lip a bit. If I did it, might go with a slightly lower profile tire like a 55 or even 50 series. The 265/60-17 is about 28.75 tall and 10" wide at the bulge, that's where it would be close. With 6" maybe a 245 or 255/55 would tuck in just enough to minimize any body mods.

I don't believe the drums would make a difference. The thickness of the rotor would be offset by the thickness of the brake drum.
I have 8 inch truck rally's on it now with a 255/70/15 rear and a 235/70/15 front with fenders rolled and they clear... Seems like I set my speedometer for 26 1/4 inch tires and it came out right. So maybe you are thinking in the right direction on the 255/55/17. I have no issues at all with tire rub with what I have . Thanks again
 

Andy L

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Found the answer to a problem today that I personally don't think I would have figured out....What is it you may ask?

Well, first off, it is not LS specific. But, it could have been. I didn't show it earlier, but before I could work on the Cheyenne, I needed wheels to drive. A family member gave us a very worn '02 Jeep Liberty. It had about 188K and little maintenance over the past few years. Among other issues, it had a cooling problem (engine and a/c) when I got it. I literally fixed everything I could think of on that Jeep...about $2000 worth in parts. After all that, I still had an issue with the cooling and a/c. (not all the $$ was on these areas, replaced all suspension/steering/brakes etc. too).

I had replaced literally everything I could think was a possible problem. Water pump, hoses, thermostat, radiator, used Zerex coolant, installed new electric fan AND installed trailer package shroud and engine driven fan, even had a new fan relay that I saw needed to have wires soldered and shrink wrapped. It did run much better.

Issue I had was not really discovered until it got hot outside. Driving along the a/c worked great, no cooling problems inside or with engine. When I came to a red light, after about 20-30 seconds, the a/c would start turning warm. And, sometimes the engine temp would start climbing. What to do?

I checked and double checked everything I could think of. I got so frustrated I took it to a local shop (I have a regular guy I use if I can't fix something), but grew impatient and took it to the "guy around the corner". He said my engine fan clutch was bad and needed the a/c charged up. OK, I paid the $250 bill. I could see shortly the Jeep acted the same.

I threw my hands up and called my buddy and took the Jeep over to him and told him my story. He called me today to say it was fixed and ready to be picked up. I had to know, what was the problem. He said, "first, it was nothing you did". I felt better already. He said, "problem was the new electric fan, it was internally wired backwards". So, when I would stop, the engine fan would pull and the electric fan would push. This would create a "vacuum" and allow the a/c compressor to get hot and shut off. He re-pinned it and said it works great now. Long story to show that even when you buy a new part, does not mean it works right. Never assume. And, be careful with the cheaper import stuff...The first guy did not check everything out properly. I will never know if the engine fan clutch was actually bad. But I sure did not get $250 worth of service. So, when you do find a reliable trustworthy mechanic, treat them good and use them consistently. My buddy fixed it for way less than half.
If you made it to the end, Thanks for letting me ramble...it was something simple, but would not have considered. Seems all experience in life has a cost, some more than others. At least this one was cheap!
 

Oldblue98

I'm Awesome
Joined
Dec 27, 2017
Messages
853
Reaction score
640
Location
Gulf Coast Florida
Thank you for the kind words,
The rears are:

Classic Torq Thrust II 17x8 5x5 5.05" Backspace
Item ID:VN2157874
Questions about this item? Be the first to ask here.
Sale Price:$130.00
Retail Price:$144.00
Your Savings:$14.00(10%)

In Stock
Free Chrome Lugs w/ Purchase!
You must be registered for see images attach

Size:
17x8
Bolt Pattern:
5x127 (5x5)
Offset:
+14mm
Backspace:
5.05"
Hub Bore:
83.06mm

I copied this directly from the https://www.wheelsforless.com/ site. Great guys to deal with, it's a father/son business, very personable. When I decided to swap the 4" bs for the 5", I made a day trip to their shop. I was impressed, they are there to please. (this is not a paid endorsement!).

As for your question of the 6" drop, it would be close, probably would need to roll the lip a bit. If I did it, might go with a slightly lower profile tire like a 55 or even 50 series. The 265/60-17 is about 28.75 tall and 10" wide at the bulge, that's where it would be close. With 6" maybe a 245 or 255/55 would tuck in just enough to minimize any body mods.

I don't believe the drums would make a difference. The thickness of the rotor would be offset by the thickness of the brake drum.
Thanks very much, I contacted Wheelsforless and went back and fourth with options, considering I am old school and do not care for wild tread patterns, it left my options a little more challenging ! But I finally ordered a set of torque thrust II 18x8 245/50/18 Goodyear Eagle tires . I stayed with same size front and rear as to be able to rotate them and get as much as I can out of them.
The guys at WFL was very helpful and pleasant to do busy with. I like the idea of them coming mounted , balanced, and ready to go on ! I should have them next week.
Thanks for your help with this as well.
 

Andy L

Newbie
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
40
Reaction score
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Finally getting back to the truck! It's been awhile. For now anyway I have decided to leave the front drop as is. I am not confident in using the stock truck oil pan on the 5.3. I researched F body oil pan "kits" and most seemed to cost about $375. I managed to find this "kit" on ebay for $230 less dip stick that was removed from a factory crate motor. I scored a factory new dip stick for $15 all with free shipping. I checked and double checked the part number to be sure...it was #12558899...Here is what my research showed:

The F-Body oil pan is the pan of choice for most engine swaps as it provides the most steering rack clearance of any GM pan as well as generous ground clearance. Using a factory GM pan allows you to retain the structural rigidity of a cast aluminum pan.

Includes

GM Part # 12628771 - GM LS1 F-Body oil pan, gasket, stock baffle, drain plug and mounting hardware (Old GM Part # 12558899)
GM Part # 12551581 - GM LS1 F-Body oil dip stick
GM Part # 12551577 - GM LS1 F-Body oil dip stick tube
GM Part # 12558251 - GM LS1 F-Body oil pickup tube
GM Part # 12558253 - GM LS1 F-Body windage tray

Applications

1998-2002 Pontiac Firebird Formula and Trans Am
1998-2002 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 and SS
Bolts to all GM Gen III & IV LS family engines including LS1, LS6, LS2, LS3, LS7, LS9, L76, L98, L92, L93, L99, LQ4, LQ9, LSA, LSX and V8 Vortec variations

Soon I will be stripping down the 5.3 to clean up and replace gaskets and the oil pan. When I do, I will take some pics of the 2 pans and show some measurements for comparison.
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