1994 chevy rcsb AC hi pressure line seized in both ends. What to do?

[man-a-fre]

My aluminum high pressure line is seized on the condenser and evaporator ends i need to replace the condenser and orfice tube what do i do.Really don't want to have to replace the evaporator is there a spliceor compression fitting i can put in line to put a new end on the condenser side?Give me some ideas please.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Maybe heating up the nut on the tube with a propane torch?

 

[JWOK]

There are line repair kits available for replacing the orifice tube. I put in a couple when I was doing a/c jobs, can’t say I was every really high on the idea though. I think you can find them on the Napa site or call and talk to the local guys, if your local guys are any good. Look for “a/c liquid line w/orifice tube repair kit”. They are compression fittings with seals. You will have to look at the line to see whether you have room for it. FYI, sometimes you can work the connections loose with penetrant and a lot of work.

 

[someotherguy]

I've gotten seized A/C lines loose with lots of PB Blaster, and a pair of adjustable wrenches set as tight as they'll possibly fit, clocked just slightly opposite each other so you can squeeze the two handles in one hand for the two-wrench-action.

Richard

 

[L29Sub]

It's probably galled up. Even if you get it apart you'll need a new condenser and a new end on the line. Condensers aren't real expensive. The lines are a bit rich, but easy to repair. The dryer will be replaced also. The big fittings on the dryer require BIG wrenches even with good threads.
No harm in trying to separate them with heat and PB, but the new compressor lubricants are corrosive in air and moisture. That locks them up after years of both.
My orifice was in the middle of the line near the radiator support, engine side. This was an L29 BB 'Burb. Yours may be different.
An idea would be to take a die grinder and carefully split the female fitting and just before hitting the male fitting, stop and crack it apart. Stay away from the "O" ring area.


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[L29Sub]

One other quick point.
Heat and compressor oil/freon smoke is toxic.

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[someotherguy]

It's probably galled up. Even if you get it apart you'll need a new condenser and a new end on the line. Condensers aren't real expensive. The lines are a bit rich, but easy to repair. The dryer will be replaced also. The big fittings on the dryer require BIG wrenches even with good threads.
No harm in trying to separate them with heat and PB, but the new compressor lubricants are corrosive in air and moisture. That locks them up after years of both.
My orifice was in the middle of the line near the radiator support, engine side. This was an L29 BB 'Burb. Yours may be different.
An idea would be to take a die grinder and carefully split the female fitting and just before hitting the male fitting, stop and crack it apart. Stay away from the "O" ring area.


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While you're probably right, no harm in carefully trying to salvage what he has there. I've got quite a few apart in the past with just patience and PB. The two-wrench-grip with adjustables tightened as tight as possible was almost magic. Prefer to use a flare wrench but that small amount of slack in them just lets the coupling and backup nut round off since the material is so soft.

Richard

 

[Nlines]

I saw a video where you need to drill a small hole thru one of the flats on the nut just deep enough to break thru to the threads, then squirt WD-40 into the hole, it will travel around inside the nut and help break it loose and still be reusable.

 

[man-a-fre]

Would a dorman part number 800-641 work if i were to cut the line at the inner fender and go to the junkyard and cut a good non seized front half liquid line off so i can have the condenser side of the line .Then i can replace my orifice tube and condenser that the line is seized too and i wont have to dick with the seized evaporator side at all.

 

[JWOK]

If you have verified the dorman part is the proper line size and are positive the orifice is at the condenser, then that should work. I think the early trucks (before '92?) placed the orifice in the evaporator and the later trucks placed them in the condenser. Dual air SUVs are a different story. I think the line is reasonably priced new at the parts stores if you can't find what you are looking for. Make sure the line is clean and not gouged, bent, or otherwise damaged where you put this connector. Good luck!