1956 case 311 tractor.

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thegawd

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Hey Rich, I have a new 12V coil with internal ballast resistor to replace the original 6V and external ballast resistor. But I did not just want to blindly swap them before hearing the tractor run or try to.

with the way it was running, is it safe to assume that the distributor and coil ect is ok? does it sound like it's running right and is there anyway it could be the reason for the stalling? I have tested the ballast resistor and its actually fine. all the connections are good as well.

basically changing the coil was going to be the last thing I was going to do. should I just go ahead and do it?
 

RichLo

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Oh you still have a 6v coil on there, you may be overheating that causing it to stall. Yea, swap out coils and give it another shot. Anything else 6v on the tractor will not last with that 12v battery.

edit: yea it sounds great and all of the cylinders sound strong. Just be sure you have enough oil in there and there is no water mixed in. and when you get it ready to drive, check the rear end fluid also and drain the water out before you move it.
 

thegawd

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Shes a runner guys and shes a running! I did change the coil but I did not do any more wiring.

the cure was actually setting the carb to factory specs! I did wire the choke open so it cant move at all. for some reason I have fuel filling up the carb and spilling into the intake and dripping out around the choke.... well I think this carb has seen better days! so I just turned the fuel off and let it run out....

BUT SHE RUNS!

now on to wiring and an oil change as well as the other fluids....

I did not put it in gear or touch any levers. nothing on the instrument cluster works. maybe the fuel gauge but I have very little fuel in it.

CHEERS!
 

RichLo

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The float sunk. You can get a carb rebuild kit off Steiner or take it apart and see what kind of float it is and try to fix it yourself. If its copper you can usually re-solder it yourself pretty easily. Plastic, Steel or Cork is a lot harder to fix yourself but can be done.

Get a roll of gasket, (the grey stuff, not the cork) and your good to go. It sounds like all of the jets are fine so you dont have to worry about cleaning or replacing those.
 

thegawd

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so with the float sunk does that allow fuel to keep filling the bowl? I was suprised that it took about 6 mins to run out of fuel so if that was just dripping out of the carb it would take forever to empty the fuel strainer bowl and line.

Thanks for the advice again Rich! I just dont havet experience and my previous experience was with Massey Furgeson diesel tractors from the 90's and an old ford but that was literally only used to push to move hay wagons and mostly into the barn.
 
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RichLo

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It took 6 mins to run out after you shut off the fuel valve? That's a while but different manufacturers have different engineers so that wouldn't surprise me. Maybe Case wanted more bowl capacity for whatever reason.

And yea, if the float sinks, it cant rise to close the needle and seat. Just remember tractors were (not anymore) designed to be fixed in the field with minimal tools and resources back when time meant money and the local hardware store could be a day's trip away, all you needed was some McGeiver level ingenuity. If the float sinks, get your Philips head and flat head screwdrivers, take bowl and float off, find the hole, empty it out, put some chewing gum over the hole and continue plowing the field while your wife runs to town to buy a new float. So dont over think it too much. :cool:
 

thegawd

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Hell ya! I have a fuel tank epoxy repair kit maybe that will work? it was designed for metal, not sure if copper was one but I will give that a try. maybe it could be soldered instead.

Yeah I will definitely take the bowl off and see if I can fix it.

I see carb kits and new floats are readily available. I just need to verify exactly what carb I have and get what I need.
 
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