1956 case 311 tractor.

[thegawd]

Well guess what??? it instantly started right up! WOOOHOOOO! but then died, 4 times. the battery was damn near dead when I started and its completely dead and charging now. the carb needs adjustment and I'm like 75% sure the choke is choking it out. it looks like all the governor parts are working correctly it just wont run long enough for me to make any adjustments. the choke cable is just a solid wire bent to work and it's more or less F'D!

tomorrow is another day!

CHEERS!

 

[thegawd]

All right guys I could use your help here. how should I wire up this alternator?

You must be registered for see images attach

the 2 terminal plug came unplugged. and this is how I found everything. I added all the red tape to identify positive wires.

the tiny brown wire from the plug was ran up to the battery.

the white wire from the plug runs to the stud on the alternator.

the redish wire runs from the stud on the alternator across to the main positive terminal on the starter solenoid.

the positive lead from the battery is also connected directly to the main solenoid terminal, it is used as a 12v+ connection point.

anyways this was a 6V system that was converted to 12v so this info is not in the manual and I'm sure it's a simple system I just dont know exactly how it works.

the alternator is a Delco Reme.

is this circuit safe to rebuild or is there an easier way to wire it? I think its weird that the little brown wire and the red wire connect to the same circuit just in different spots.

maybe the brown wire was actually ment for a voltmeter. it has to be. I dont know though.

theres a couple old wires broken on the engine but I think they are temp gauges... not sure yet I'll get there.

 

[thegawd]

I think I have the '3 wire' alternator wiring figured out. most of what I see is right. possibly even the gauge of the wires. the small brown wire is supposed to be connected to an indicator lamp and to the ignition switch. the indicator light will light up before the alternator is charging and in doing so it excites the alternator and it starts charging. if the alternator stops charging for whatever reason the light will light back up.

there might be an battery indicator light on the dash panel and that should be where the small brown wire goes. if not, I will install one and get on with the wiring.

heres a wiring diagram that is pretty clear.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[thegawd]

no there was no battery light on the instrument panel. just an ammeter, there was a light on the instrument panel itself but that's so you can see the instruments. I'm going to have to find an indicator light to wire this up right.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

If you have an ammeter maybe it's a full flow like the old Mopars had. That means all of the current flow will go through the ammeter. If that connection or meter is bad, you'll have no power to the battery or ignition.

 

[thegawd]

heres a pictogram haha of the instrument wiring.

You must be registered for see images attach

now with the 6 to 12v conversion some of these things might not even work. I'm pretty sure the ammeter has been bypassed, the voltage regulator was bypassed as it would normally connect to the 6v generator. and some things requires swapping polarities because the 6V was a positive ground..... I have no idea yet though. a gas gauge would be nice! it so far it is not working.

the ignition switch is simple, it's just a switch, basic wiring with a positive output to the instrument panel

I'll have to take a closer look. I was suprised that when I tested for continuity throughout the instrument panel that it all or most of it seems to work. I absolutely have a broken wire for the engine temperature gauge.

there are steps that I read online for this conversion to get most of the gauges working. I'll have to find those and review them again.

 

[RichLo]

ok, dont overthink that alternator, lol. Just have a jumper wire from the output stud to the 'exciter' terminal, it looks like terminal #2 on your diagram. Ignore the other one. Run a heavy gauge wire from the output stud to a 60-amp ammeter then from the ammeter to the battery.

Or if you dont want an ammeter just run the alternator directly to the battery. You can always ad one later, they are cheap on ebay and work. I have two on my plow truck to monitor the health of both alternators on it.

And with any wiring on that tractor, do yourself a favor and run brand new wires and solder/heat shrink all of the connections any time you fix something. Save yourself a headache when later when the factory wiring breaks down and causes problems.

I'm glad you got it running!!! You should get a video and post it!

 

[thegawd]

Thanks rich, I did find myself an indicator light and I really want to use it. haha I couldn't agree more, most of this wiring will absolutely be replaced.

Im a fairly private person but I do have a YT channel. I generally make my videos not listed if I post the link then you all can view it.

heres a terrible video but I purposely used the worst quality possible. haha here ya go, this was the first start!

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[RichLo]

Ha, nice! That ran great until it didnt! Sounds like a fuel starvation problem, like it has enough flow to fill the bowl but not enough to keep it going. Is there any junk in the tank blocking flow going into the sediment bowl? You can temporarily clean it out by taking the fuel line off at the carb and blowing compressed air in it, loosen the gas cap if you try this.

 

[thegawd]

I was wondering if it was starving for fuel but I couldn't even get off the tractor to see before it died. I have not tried to start it today. I'm gathering up wires and parts to rewire all the fried wires but I have some shìt to get done first.

I cleaned the tank completely and there was not a spec of rust inside when I was done. but I noticed some small rust particles in the sediment bowl.

I did not take the carb off just sprayed carb cleaner through every port until it came out clean, it was quite dirty. I did not want to take it apart without parts to put it back together like the gasket... its paper as far as I can tell.

I think that the choke is closing or not opening and choking it out. the cable is a solid fence wire bent to make it around everything and to the carb. LMAO I havent taken it off yet but that's my next move. it appears to be partially closed when relaxed and not open like it should be. its spring loaded but the spring may not be good enough anymore.

I have some shìt going on today so later on I may put the battery back in and try again.

I just really wanted to hear it run! as that is great motivation to really Get R Done!