14 bolt leaking stupid ORW!

[Urambo Tauro]

You can't check pre-load with the rear end assembled, it has to be checked without the carrier installed.

Does it matter? I'm genuinely curious. So curious in fact, that when I rebuilt a Ford 8.8 a few years ago, I re-checked the preload multiple times during reassembly to see how much effect the other parts would have on the pinion's resistance to rotation. Even after installing the axleshafts and gear oil, the reading never changed.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

^^^What he said. I got the same results.

This was my followup post.

This was with the carrier out for initial set up. Maybe you can check load with the torque wrench before disassembly and then after?

I would think, if you remove your brake drums you should get a good reading. The idea here is to put it back the same way it came apart.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

Does it matter? I'm genuinely curious. So curious in fact, that when I rebuilt a Ford 8.8 a few years ago, I re-checked the preload multiple times during reassembly to see how much effect the other parts would have on the pinion's resistance to rotation. Even after installing the axleshafts and gear oil, the reading never changed.

I don't believe that unless we're talking about two different things. Pre-load is the amount of tension or load the pinion bearings have, right? You measure this by reading how much torque it takes to start to rotate the pinion gear. It has to be measured by a dial or beam type torque wrench, the click style won't work. If you have to rotate the pinon gear, the carrier, the axles etc it's a drastically different number just due to the added friction. There is no way turning the entire assemble takes 20-35 inch pounds (GM 14 bolt), let alone didn't change as you added more mass and friction to the deal.

How were you checking it? I've rebuilt 40-50 8.8s the ten years I worked for Ford and I can't help but think we're talking about two different things here.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

^^^What he said. I got the same results.

This was my followup post.



I would think, if you remove your brake drums you should get a good reading. The idea here is to put it back the same way it came apart.

How many rear ends have you built?

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

The problem is that if you are either over or under tightened you'll mess you your pinion depth. I've had success with this method if the yoke measures the same.

I mark the pinion, nut, yoke and socket that I use for removal. I use hand tools to remove the nut so I can count the number of turns to remove the nut. I mark the new yoke and align it the same as the old one and line it up on the pinion. I count the number of turns and stop when everything is lined up.

Pinion depth will not change, that's set by your shim and bearing thickness. The preload on the bearings will change if you over tighten and crush the sleeve further.

 

[Urambo Tauro]

How were you checking it? I've rebuilt 40-50 8.8s the ten years I worked for Ford and I can't help but think we're talking about two different things here.

No, we're on the same page. Beam-style torque wrench and everything. New bearings, new oil, and no apparent change at the pinion after assembly. It's been a while, but I want to say it was something like 16 or 18 lb-in. I was surprised.

 

[Sparkysikes]

I took out that bolt and I can see gear oil inside the chase I put on rtv along the bolt ran it back in. But I believe I will have to remove the pinion bearing retainer. At the front of the pinion there is a pilot bearing. I think I can simply pull out that assembly as a whole and not mess with any alignment. Or maybe bubble gum and duct tape?

 

[Sparkysikes]

This assembly

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[C.J.G]

I had the same problem but mine was leaking around the six bolts .RTVed it and hasn’t leaked in years until a few months ago. I think I didn’t use gear oil resistant rtv.

 

[Sparkysikes]

Well let's hope I did lol. Good to know it's not a short term fix.