The Stupid Engine Questions Thread

The shorties are still all over Ebay, I'm not sure if they are making the longtubes still or not. I found them like a month ago, can't find them now.

I can't find

I changed my ignition control module as suggested out along with ignition coil just to get them both out of the way. Truck like previously ran good at first but started to develop the miss under load after reaching operating temps. Fuel pressure also checks out ok. It has about 14 psi when I check it after warming it up. If I rev the motor up to about 2K and hold it for a bit, the pressure looks ok.

At this point this is what I've replaced:

1. Ignition control module. (Plenty of dielectric grease was applied as well)
2. Ignition coil.
3. Distributor Cap and rotor
4. All of the wires have been replaced.
5. Map sensor has been replaced
6. The lower coolant temp sensor was replaced in the winter. (The other one has not been replaced)
7. Brand new IAC was replaced also in the winter.
8. PCV was also replaced in the winter.

The only thing electrical that has not been replaced is the coolant temp sensor on top of the motor and the TPS. As suggested the rotor and distributor were checked and appeared to be fine. The truck is in proper timing too so I don't know what else to check.

One night a few weeks ago my throttle cable somehow got wrapped around the arm on the way home and coming from the freeway it heated my brakes up a lot. Ever since, I have had the abs light come on every once in a while and the abs will activate making it hard to stop. Did I fry the abs sensor or something trying to stop?

I have a 1992 Chevy K1500 with the 5.7 & 700R4. I was at the Silver Lake Sand Dunes about 2 months ago when I was on the dunes and I developed a squeaking noise. And I keep it under 10mph & not past 2500rpms. She ain't a prerunner. If spark knock and belt squeal had a child from hell this would be it. It only happens in a forward or reverse gear under a load. 1/8 throttle or full throttle it doesn't happen but anywhere in between it'll knock away. While driving the moment you let off the gas or shift into neutral the noise goes away and the moment you give a little bit of throttle or shift back into a drive gear (not reverse of course) it comes back. Makes absolutely no noise in park/reverse all the way to the swirlports' redline. I have replaced the cap/rotor. The plugs and wires look good. I have had multiple mechanics and GM engineers witness and trouble shoot this problem to no avail. I have heard anything from a bad head gasket to a bad speedometer cable and everything in between so any idea is a good idea at this point

Wanting to do efans and need to know best setup. Push/pull and cfm requirements?

beardeddummy said:

Wanting to do efans and need to know best setup. Push/pull and cfm requirements?

Click to expand...

Puller's are far more effective all the way. The common Taurus/Mark VIII fans are more than sufficient. I also saw a Mercury Villager with a gnarly looking fan setup in it the other day.

I was thinking about just cheap 20 dollar fans from jegs. Replace as necessary.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Speedmaster/746/PCE185.1007/10002/-1

if i went with one of the recommended vortec cams, would i have to do anything about the knock sensor? because i bought a whole lot of internals to replace and i found out i bought too extreme of a camshaft..

I need help have a late 80s block someone put in the truck with tbi number 6 crylinder is not firing new plugs wires ect. I dont know why