MSCustoms
Its not just a Truck
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2013
- Messages
- 3,353
- Reaction score
- 195
I decided to do a write up on this subject because I couldn't find any information on it when I replace the hinge assembly on my truck. The driver door on my truck was sagging and after some investigation, I found the holes for the door pins were elongated and new pins would not fix the issue. I am also not a fan of placing a jack under the door to bend the hinges so the door would align, its not a fix to the actual problem. Anyway, I purchased a set of hinges from lmc and embarked on the journey.
I had to bend the hinges because the opening between them were too large. I removed the pins and separated the hinges.
I scuffed the hinges with 120 grit sand paper and applied three coats of etching primer. Before the 24 hour mark, I sprayed the hinges with 3 coats of 2k primer.
After curing for 24 hours, I wet sanded the hinges with 220 grit and sprayed them with 3 coats of acrylic enamel paint that I got color matched from the paint store.
Now onto the removal process. The front fender must be removed to remove the old hinges and to adjust the new hinges when they are installed. I removed the door panel and inner panel as well before removing the door.
The stock hinges are welded to the truck and must be drilled out to remove the hinge. I did this by sanding the face of the hinge with 80 grit sand paper until enough paint is removed to see the spot welds. You can see where the spot welds have been sanded first.
I used a center punch to make an indent over the center of the spot weld. Then I used a 1/8 inch drill to drill a pilot hole in the spot weld. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL INTO THE TRUCK, ONLY THE HINGE. I then used a 1/2 inch spot weld cutter to start cutting out the spot weld. I finished drilling out the spot weld with a 1/2 inch carbide end mill. This was more effective at cutting out the spot weld.
I marked the position of the hinge and used a chisel to remove the hinge from the truck.
I cleaned the area, sprayed it with 3 coats of etching primer, and sprayed with 3 coats of paint. The bolts come through the back side and the hinges came with a fish wire for the bolts. The lower hinges required the removal of the kick panel and the upper hinges required the removal of the dash speaker (88-94 models). I used the fish wire to bring the bolts through the back side of the truck and through the hinges. I snugly tightened the hinges and reinstalled the door. I aligned the door by lifting the back end into place while having another person tighten the bolts. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLTS TOO TIGHT! the bolts will not be flush against the backside of the truck because the spot weld deposits are still there and the bolts will break if you tighten too tight. I installed the inner door panel and door panel.
The door now opens and closes easily without having to slam the door. The hinges are now adjustable without having to bend the hinges and can easily be replaced again if they go bad.
You must be registered for see images attach
I had to bend the hinges because the opening between them were too large. I removed the pins and separated the hinges.
You must be registered for see images attach
I scuffed the hinges with 120 grit sand paper and applied three coats of etching primer. Before the 24 hour mark, I sprayed the hinges with 3 coats of 2k primer.
You must be registered for see images attach
After curing for 24 hours, I wet sanded the hinges with 220 grit and sprayed them with 3 coats of acrylic enamel paint that I got color matched from the paint store.
You must be registered for see images attach
Now onto the removal process. The front fender must be removed to remove the old hinges and to adjust the new hinges when they are installed. I removed the door panel and inner panel as well before removing the door.
You must be registered for see images attach
The stock hinges are welded to the truck and must be drilled out to remove the hinge. I did this by sanding the face of the hinge with 80 grit sand paper until enough paint is removed to see the spot welds. You can see where the spot welds have been sanded first.
You must be registered for see images attach
I used a center punch to make an indent over the center of the spot weld. Then I used a 1/8 inch drill to drill a pilot hole in the spot weld. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL INTO THE TRUCK, ONLY THE HINGE. I then used a 1/2 inch spot weld cutter to start cutting out the spot weld. I finished drilling out the spot weld with a 1/2 inch carbide end mill. This was more effective at cutting out the spot weld.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
I marked the position of the hinge and used a chisel to remove the hinge from the truck.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
I cleaned the area, sprayed it with 3 coats of etching primer, and sprayed with 3 coats of paint. The bolts come through the back side and the hinges came with a fish wire for the bolts. The lower hinges required the removal of the kick panel and the upper hinges required the removal of the dash speaker (88-94 models). I used the fish wire to bring the bolts through the back side of the truck and through the hinges. I snugly tightened the hinges and reinstalled the door. I aligned the door by lifting the back end into place while having another person tighten the bolts. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLTS TOO TIGHT! the bolts will not be flush against the backside of the truck because the spot weld deposits are still there and the bolts will break if you tighten too tight. I installed the inner door panel and door panel.
The door now opens and closes easily without having to slam the door. The hinges are now adjustable without having to bend the hinges and can easily be replaced again if they go bad.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach