Lifter replacement

[MiGorda]

Why do you need to remove the head? If the valves are damaged from excess clearance, the damage will be apparent above the retainer--where the rocker arm has been banging against the valve tip.

There may be MORE valve damage than just the tip...but there shouldn't be valve damage anywhere else if the tip isn't brutalized.

It's not like the valve seized in the guide, and got hit by the piston.

Hmm there was a noise with the rocker arm tight it but when I loose it the tick turned out in a bang, something was hitting and making a big noise. The rod looks almost perfect, the spring and rocker arm too, so I think the valve is broken and hitting inside the piston. As you can see in my video, the rocker arm doesn´t move, I think that the cam, lifter and rod should be too much damaged but they look fine, of course I need to remove it and see both, cam and lifter.

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[MiGorda]

Idk , kinda sounded like lash was cranked down until there was contact but I would be looking at the cam closely before pulling a head. Not really enough info here if coil bind, or guide to retainer clearance could have been an issue before piston to valve contact. .465 lift, stock, springs etc. is a pretty big shortcut. Offhand .465 would have called for something like a 110-115lb seat pressure like Z28 spring which can be had for under $60/set, and not an 80 lb. stock one. Why this happen he asks. The guy that built the engine didn't know what he was doing.

Now I admit I don´t understand you. You know that I mentioned that got the whole kit and includes springs or please explain me like I was a little kid

 

[Schurkey]

Your video shows that the rocker arm is adjusted about the same as the others--maybe tighter. You say the pushrod is good. The rocker hardly moves. The cam lobe is already round. TOTALLY SHOT. The lifter is also going to be TOTALLY SHOT.

You'll be lucky if the metal dust that used to be a cam lobe and lifter foot, and is now circulating with the oil, hasn't wiped-out the main, rod, and cam bearings and crank journals, and embedded into the piston skirts causing cylinder-wall scoring.

Well, OK, MAYBE the rocker stud has pulled out of the head far enough that you've got heaps of valve lash, preventing movement of the rocker arm. You'd be more-likely to complain that one rocker arm flops around like a wounded guppy, though. Possible...VERY unlikely. It does not seem to be taller than the other rocker studs, but it's hard to tell from the video.

Put compressed air into the cylinder when it's on TDC-Compression stroke (or remove both rocker arms) to verify that the valves are still sealing. If one or both don't seal, then the head comes off to find out why.

 

[MiGorda]

Your video shows that the rocker arm is adjusted about the same as the others--maybe tighter. You say the pushrod is good. The rocker hardly moves. The cam lobe is already round. TOTALLY SHOT. The lifter is also going to be TOTALLY SHOT.

You'll be lucky if the metal dust that used to be a cam lobe and lifter foot, and is now circulating with the oil, hasn't wiped-out the main, rod, and cam bearings and crank journals, and embedded into the piston skirts causing cylinder-wall scoring.

Well, OK, MAYBE the rocker stud has pulled out of the head far enough that you've got heaps of valve lash, preventing movement of the rocker arm. You'd be more-likely to complain that one rocker arm flops around like a wounded guppy, though. Possible...VERY unlikely. It does not seem to be taller than the other rocker studs, but it's hard to tell from the video.

Put compressed air into the cylinder when it's on TDC-Compression stroke (or remove both rocker arms) to verify that the valves are still sealing. If one or both don't seal, then the head comes off to find out why.

Ok, I got it, 2 questions about this.

After overthigthen the rocker arms, I just drove it around 60 miles without pushing, not more than 2,000 revs. So you think that´s enough to smash the lobe of the cam?

As I said before, there is a big bang, like a hammering, don´t you think that instead of a damaged cam the disaster is a valve broken and that makes the big noise?

 

[Hipster]

Ok, I understand. Anyway I'll try to pull out the lifter "slightly" and if comes out maybe the damage is very little and I'll keep the cam, if I can´t pull it out then remove the cam.

It´s not invalid of course, I know is important to be realistic and you are but there is nothing wrong being optimistic, I'm not against saying you, I´m just looking options, in case there are.

Thanks.

Being opitmistic is one thing being optimistic to the point of overlooking, denying, and being close minded to other things and possibilities is nothing more than wishful thinking. Optimism isn't going to do anything other than create a situation you overlook other damage and end up in the same situation...another time. A lifter is not going to fix this. A valve is not the issue ..yet.

 

[MiGorda]

Never being close minded, I always knew that could be a big damage but I like to think in the simplest way in order to fix it.

Never denied anything, I just wanted a simple question. Anyway I appreciate ALL the answers.

It´s like when I got tendonitis in my shoulder, went with a doctor and told me that the best would be cirgury but I preferred work out patiently and after 3 years is almost perfect

And about my PT, I put too much pressure to the turbo and screwed the engine, I didn´t pay for a rebuild, I got a new one from the oficial dealer, now I can´t

 

[Hipster]

Never being close minded, I always knew that could be a big damage but I like to think in the simplest way in order to fix it.

Never denied anything, I just wanted a simple question. Anyway I appreciate ALL the answers.

It´s like when I got tendonitis in my shoulder, went with a doctor and told me that the best would be cirgury but I preferred work out patiently and after 3 years is almost perfect

And about my PT, I put too much pressure to the turbo and screwed the engine, I didn´t pay for a rebuild, I got a new one from the oficial dealer, now I can´t

We're talking about precision machined components, not body parts that can heal themselves through therapy and steroids. They don't heal, either they're good for use or junk. There isn't an in-between. 15 used and 1 new lifter on a new cam isn't a solution either.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Ok, I got it, 2 questions about this.

After overthigthen the rocker arms, I just drove it around 60 miles without pushing, not more than 2,000 revs. So you think that´s enough to smash the lobe of the cam?

As I said before, there is a big bang, like a hammering, don´t you think that instead of a damaged cam the disaster is a valve broken and that makes the big noise?

You need to start listening to @Schurkey. I watched your video, read this entire thread, AND just went through something similar myself.

That cam is TOAST.

If I'm reading this correctly, you over tightened the rocker arms and drove 60 miles WITHOUT doing an engine break in.

That right there is what put you in this situation.

 

[Hipster]

Now I admit I don´t understand you. You know that I mentioned that got the whole kit and includes springs or please explain me like I was a little kid

You mentioned a cam/lifter kit. I'm not seeing springs mentioned. Nothing to explain and the part number you reference refers to a cam and lifter kit without springs so .......there ya have it.

 

[Schurkey]

The engine was fine, only a little tick from the valves,

There's a fair chance that the cam lobe was on it's way out at this point, which is why you heard "ticking".

so I tried to calibrate them but overtighed them, so apparently I damaged the valve

Possible. Worth checking. As said...get that cylinder on TDC-Compression (NOT TDC-Exhaust) and put compressed air in the cylinder. Hissing at the throttle body is a leaking intake valve. Hissing at the tailpipe is a leaking exhaust valve. Bubbles in the radiator are a failed head gasket, or a cracked casting. Hissing at the oil-fill cap can be normal, there's always some leakage past the rings. A real, live cylinder leakdown tester used with compressed air can tell you if the ring leakage is acceptable or excessive...but all you need is compressed air to know if the valves seal.

but not the lifter, anyway I tried to remove it but put it too much pressure and broke it with my pressure clamp

If it didn't pull right out with your fingers...there's problems with the bottom of the lifter.