It does it while stopped in nuetral too so I don't believe its an issue that has to do with load
???regular driving is just fine and it only happens when I floor it
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It does it while stopped in nuetral too so I don't believe its an issue that has to do with load
???regular driving is just fine and it only happens when I floor it
Get it done. There easy and cheap enough. LolWhen was the fuel filter last changed? Most fuel pump warranties require that you replace the filter when you replace the pump. One of the things I have to do to the Burb yet....
Gotta do it, clean fuel going to the injectors is very important. They come out pretty easy, last one I did didn't even spill much fuel. I won't tell you it takes ten minutes because it takes ten minutes for me to get under a car with wrenches in my hand, but honestly if you booked an hour of your time, you'd probably be able to wrap it up in less than that.When was the fuel filter last changed? Most fuel pump warranties require that you replace the filter when you replace the pump. One of the things I have to do to the Burb yet....
Yup I just gotta get to the shop, get the jack out from behind the junk that got put in front of it, etc.... I can do the filter on the one ton by sliding under it, but the Burb is too low with the running boards.Gotta do it, clean fuel going to the injectors is very important. They come out pretty easy, last one I did didn't even spill much fuel. I won't tell you it takes ten minutes because it takes ten minutes for me to get under a car with wrenches in my hand, but honestly if you booked an hour of your time, you'd probably be able to wrap it up in less than that.
The cap and rotor are less than a month old spark plugs are 30k miles or so old pcv is clear timing I have not checked new fuel filter and pump, air filter is clean.Yes, fuel pressure test, preferably WHILE THE VEHICLE IS ACTING UP. A less-effective but still reasonable "cheat" is to use the bypass button included with most fuel pressure testers, so that fuel flows down the cheap-junk vinyl tube into a drainpan while the engine is running. Simulates increased fuel demand by the engine.
Also, as usual, verify ALL the sensors and computer outputs by connecting a scan tool. In particular, assure that the TPS and MAP sensors are working properly. Wouldn't surprise me to find that a heavy-throttle misfire is caused by a failed TPS that doesn't transmit a proper signal at large throttle openings.
How old are the usual "tune-up" items? Distributor cap 'n' rotor, plug wires, spark plugs, PCV, and ignition timing/timing advance checks, fuel and air filters, etc. Pretty common for weak ignition systems to run OK at low- and mid-throttle, and fall on their face when voltage demand goes up due to higher cylinder pressure when the engine is working harder.
You should check fuel pressure. That part I agree with. This certainly could be a fuel pressure/injector issue.Basically all this tells me that it's probably in the fuel but I need to get my hands on a pressure tester and go through the full shop procedure. Do you agree with that statement?
See post #11, at 1st he said only at WOT, then later said it stalls at idle too. It's pretty hard to diagnose when you don't get the full story.Since you say it runs good at idle and part-throttle, it's probably not a mis-timed camshaft or low compression.