Truck sputtered, backfired, now wont start

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jus10inbrla

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Yea idk what im gona do. Regardless if timing or valve its gona be at least 1500$ for a mechanic to fix

On the lower side if distributor / rotor , a few hundred bucks. And im not good enough in an engine to diagnose either of those. So regardless at least 500 im sure
 

jus10inbrla

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Ok so back again. Truck got pushed in garage for few weeks. I pulled distributor cap off . Nothing looked worn / burnt out.

how do you test the rotor or distributor (or the cap) ? Im really not understanding the few videos ive watched youtube… or they will just be changing them.

Can i bump the ignition to see if rotor turns? That wouldnt cause timing to jump was a concern of my dad. He seems to recall his k20 back in the late 70s having an issue of eating distributor caps.
 

jus10inbrla

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using the spark checker on the rite, i had good spark shooting out Of coil wire.

i cant “see” the gas shooting out injectors, but can damn sure smell it when u try to crank. but like i said earlier don’t think its fuel as i shot it with ether, and tried pouring a little in the bowl.
 

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HotWheelsBurban

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Ok so back again. Truck got pushed in garage for few weeks. I pulled distributor cap off . Nothing looked worn / burnt out.

how do you test the rotor or distributor (or the cap) ? Im really not understanding the few videos ive watched youtube… or they will just be changing them.

Can i bump the ignition to see if rotor turns? That wouldnt cause timing to jump was a concern of my dad. He seems to recall his k20 back in the late 70s having an issue of eating distributor caps.
Yes the early style HEI with the coil in the cap, were hard on caps, rotors, modules, all the parts inside. 40+KV constantly will do that....
That's one reason why they went away from that style. Your cap or rotor could be cracked, just not enough to see yet. Usually they carbon up around cracks or bad places but not always.
 

jus10inbrla

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for 60-70 bucks im probly gona gamble on the whole kit and see if that fixes problem. Worst case scenario i send it back / be at square one again



ok another issue im thinking if i do change the distributor ; will i have to reset timing? Sems like i saw a video of someone changing theres but having to tweak it to line back up properly then shoot the timing light

edit found video
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rockR67

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I went through this with my tbi roadmaster. It was the distributor, of course the car lied to me first and tried to start on starter fluid. So it got a new fuel pump before the distributor and I learned the lesson of check the fuel pressure before dropping the tank.
 

Schurkey

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using the spark checker on the rite, i had good spark shooting out Of coil wire.
You cranked the engine with your existing distributor installed, and you had good, strong, rythmic/regular/consistent spark at the coil wire using that spark-tester?

for 60-70 bucks im probly gona gamble on the whole kit and see if that fixes problem. Worst case scenario i send it back / be at square one again
If you have good, strong, consistent spark at the coil wire, why would you replace the distributor? Are you seeing some failure or defect that you haven't mentioned? Is the gear at the bottom worn-out?

if i do change the distributor ; will i have to reset timing?
Of course.

i cant “see” the gas shooting out injectors, but can damn sure smell it when u try to crank. but like i said earlier don’t think its fuel as i shot it with ether, and tried pouring a little in the bowl.
What are the chances that the plugs are fuel fouled, and that's why it won't start?

Did you ever check fuel pressure?

Did you ever test cranking compression pressure of all eight cylinders? That could verify "dropped valve" and potential timing-chain issues.
 
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