Speaker upgrade suggestions

[MSCustoms]

I put Memphis 6.5 coax speakers in the rear pillars and kicker KS 6.5 components in the doors and tweeters in the factory dash location. No spacers in the doors.

 

[alpinecrick]

Whatever u out back there make sure they are very good speakers so u don't have to do it again! My current truck has infinity reference 4" in a 4x6 to 4" adapter plate. They have been unhooked for quite a while now since they can't keep up with everything else but they are there and still work.

Is there an adapter plate available for the Infinity Kappas that will fit the rear pillar and under the plastic cover?

 

[Ehall8702]

Is there an adapter plate available for the Infinity Kappas that will fit the rear pillar and under the plastic cover?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/361502476184

Make sure u use some sort of foam tape between plate and truck and then between speaker and plate. It'll rattle like a mother if a screw comes loose! Used fine thread screws and locktite to hold plate to truck and used a machine screw with a nut to hold speaker to plate, locktite there too. The infinitys sounded great in there also, had reference 4" in rear and reference 6.75 components in front on 80 watts x 4 rms.

 

[alpinecrick]

Thanks Ehall! I appreciate the info and link.

 

[alpinecrick]

This is coming from somebody who probably hasn't installed a new stereo system, in like, a long time. So try not to laugh too hard......

While the audio brain trust is active, is the factory stereo's on Ebay retrofitted with Bluetooth any good?

I keep going back and forth with the factory vs an aftermarket stereo........

 

[Ehall8702]

This is coming from somebody who probably hasn't installed a new stereo system, in like, a long time. So try not to laugh too hard......

While the audio brain trust is active, is the factory stereo's on Ebay retrofitted with Bluetooth any good?

I keep going back and forth with the factory vs an aftermarket stereo........

Most of the retro stuff is usually junk, unless it's a bigger name like retrosound or something. I myself perfer after market but absolutely hate where they go in the pre 95 trucks tho. Kind of a toss up there. What are you trying to add to your stereo? There are aux cable "mods" for the factory units, but then u still have a stock unit putting out less than 10 watts per channel. An aftermarket unit of any big name brand puts out right around 21 watts rms per channel and have Bluetooth, aux, USB, and some have hpf ( cuts the bass out of your speakers so u don't have to buy bass blockers which take power away from the speakers too). I don't know how deep you wanna go down this rabbit hole, but I would definitely add a small 4 channel amp, 50-75 watts rms and your music will come to life! You will thank yourself over and over if you do. Need any help picking things out or advice PM me. I have been installing for over 25 years and love what I do and like helping ppl out . My current level of addiction video here, no close to finished so don't judge my dash! Dual reason it's apart, one is had to fix heater box and two I'm working on a custom bezel to mount my volt meters and a tablet

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This addiction cost more than most drugs do lol.

 

[alpinecrick]

I'm referring to something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sierra-Tah...EM-15766343-BLUETOOTH-CAPABILITY/282779716721

I like the tactile buttons/knobs--a lot easier/safer than looking at a touchscreen. But I'm not sure of the reliability of the retrofit.

On the other hand, a new stereo with all the features--including backup camera capable--might be a better bet. Be nice if I could find a unit that's not all touchscreen.

And after listening to a couple other guys modest stereo systems, their 50 watt amp does wonders for a system.

 

[Jerryred94silvy]

Most of the retro stuff is usually junk, unless it's a bigger name like retrosound or something. I myself perfer after market but absolutely hate where they go in the pre 95 trucks tho. Kind of a toss up there. What are you trying to add to your stereo? There are aux cable "mods" for the factory units, but then u still have a stock unit putting out less than 10 watts per channel. An aftermarket unit of any big name brand puts out right around 21 watts rms per channel and have Bluetooth, aux, USB, and some have hpf ( cuts the bass out of your speakers so u don't have to buy bass blockers which take power away from the speakers too). I don't know how deep you wanna go down this rabbit hole, but I would definitely add a small 4 channel amp, 50-75 watts rms and your music will come to life! You will thank yourself over and over if you do. Need any help picking things out or advice PM me. I have been installing for over 25 years and love what I do and like helping ppl out . My current level of addiction video here, no close to finished so don't judge my dash! Dual reason it's apart, one is had to fix heater box and two I'm working on a custom bezel to mount my volt meters and a tablet

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This addiction cost more than most drugs do lol.

My truck already had an aftermarket headunit installed when I bought it. But it’s from the late 90’s-early 2000’s so I plan on replacing it with one that has Bluetooth. Could I run four of the Polk plates and a nicer head unit and have everything play nicely together?

 

[Ehall8702]

My truck already had an aftermarket headunit installed when I bought it. But it’s from the late 90’s-early 2000’s so I plan on replacing it with one that has Bluetooth. Could I run four of the Polk plates and a nicer head unit and have everything play nicely together?

Most definantly , make sure u get something with a hpf xover and they should sound real nice. I like pioneer myself , and u can get a real nice one under $100 that's just a single din setup with USB Bluetooth aux crossovers and an good EQ. Need a recommendation, lemme know

 

[RI Chevy guy]

360 hz? I usually set my high pass at 100 hz, is that way too low?

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

Might be, depends on what sub you're using. I'd try to take it up a bit, take some of the burden off of the smaller speakers- you may very well get better clarity as the cones aren't trying to reproduce frequencies they weren't exactly intended to