Steering wanders after lift kit installed

[clellisx]

I've been restoring/modifying a 2 DR 98 Chevy Tahoe Sport 4x4. I put a BDS 6" lift (new top ball joints) with 35's and alignment, fox 2.0 shocks, new gear box and intermediary shaft, wheel bearings and all beefy aftermarket steering parts (I forget the brand). Anyway minus the lower ball joints effectively the whole front end is brand new. I'm not excited about having to "drive" it. It wanders ... at least I think that's the correct terminology. This is my first lifted vehicle and I feel like I'm constantly having to keep it pointed down the road. Is this typical behavior for this setup and if so is there anything I could purchase to make it steer more like factory?? Thanks for any insight/help.

 

[b454rat]

Have the alignment checked again. I had many trucks lifted and none wandered like that. Tow in/out too much can make a huge effect on steering. My 08 Tundra has a Zone 5' lifted with 35s, and can do 100 with one hand on the wheel.

 

[RichLo]

^yep.

Specifically look at the caster on the printout. Any negative caster you'll have the grocery cart front wheel experience. I always ask to go on the extreme positive caster (within spec still) when doing an alignment on a truck.

 

[clellisx]

Wanted to first of all thank the participants of this thread. I took it to get aligned "for the 4th time" and the place I went to was so incredibly nice. The mechanic said he would adjust it to what he thinks it should be and when I went to pay for it he said, "I don't want to be like the other shops. Take it out and drive it. If it still pulls then you owe me nothing and if it doesn't come back and pay". Sadly it pulls even more to the right now. I stopped into another alignment shop today and spoke with a tech. He came out to my truck and looked things over. He also looked at the specs the last shop gave me. He said while what they did wasn't necessarily wrong there was a better way of setting it up. I have an appointment on the 10th. I'll update with the findings.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Even if the specs are reasonably close to stock, theres another one most alignment techs sometimes miss. Front axle setback. If the lower ball joints, left and right, aren't perpendicular to the thrust angle, the truck will pull.
Have the next tech measure camber/caster/toe, then setback. Add the setback to the cross caster.

Meaning: if the front "axle" is .25° to the right, give it .25° cross caster split left ( 3.25L, 3.50R) Caster doesnt wear tires, so being out of spec is perfectly fine.

As suggested, set the caster to the maximum allowable by maxing out the UCA cams.

Hope that helps. Oh, this assumes the rear axle is as close to 0° thrust angle (though slightly negative helps with crowned roads)

 

[chevyrider838]

OP...any updates on this? Thanks

 

[ralmo94]

In my opinion you want to get the post caster you can on the right wheel and still have good camber, typically I like 0 or as close as I can get to it for camber. Then go to the driver's side and set it up ½ degree less than the passenger side. Then adjust toe as close to 0 as you can get with new parts, err on the side of toe in. then verify the other adjustments are still good. This should produce a straight driving truck that feels good.

Most shops only adjust for about 3 deg castor, with over size tires that's not enough imho, or for towing. Most shops will leave the KO s in also or Maybe just knock one side out and match the side that still has them. If you have knock outs in, you might have to pay extra to get them out at a shop.