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Officially Retired, B31-3 (6-G) certified welder.
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Jul 14, 2014
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Remote starter relay wiring
@Wh4t3v3rs drew this diagram on another thread a while back. I used it on my 88 with no issues. Had to use 2 cube relays with it. This uses the same Lt Blu wires your schematic shows. HTH

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Dec 4, 2022
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Ozark, mo
Hi guys so I have been chasing an issue since doing my LS Swap with a no crank no start. Determined it was due to the lack of no neutral safety switch and this is my write up for it on a 1998 k1500 suburban. I did this swap with a BP Automotive wiring harness which does not require a signal to the pcm for what gears you are in. I ran into the problem when stripping down my factory harness and just cut the wires off and thankfully left them in the harness. The common issues with the oem neutral switch plugs is that they get glued into the switch from the factory. Now you can absolutely 100% remove these with a heat gun and the plugs will slide out. Here is a video from ict billet showing how to do this:

Now if you are like me and cut them out or just need to replace the wires you can follow lt1 swap’s where these wires go and where to they go.
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Here is the 7 pin plug
A is Pin A on Pass plug, NSS Park Neutral Signal
B Park Neutral signal pin D passenger plug
C is Key crank C7 pin on driverside plug
D is ground to pin F on passenger side but not so sure
E is to a crank fuse at E1 on drivers side plug
F is your reverse lamp at pin D3 at backup lamp feed on the drivers side plug
G is to your starter relay feed coil located at the UHFB

This is for the smaller 4 pin plug which all 4 wires go to the passenger side plug

Pin A —Black White Range Bit 1
Pin B —Gray Range Switch Bit 3
Pin C —White Trans Position Switch Signal
Pin D —Yellow Range Signal B Park NSS

I hope this was helpful for those who haven’t had a good clear answer anywhere if you have any questions please shoot me a pm or comment and I’ll get back to you ASAP. Thank you.