I/H/E/T or LQ4 swap?

[99'Subourbon]

So I think I need to be persuaded in 1 direction or the other.

Up until yesterday, I had already put the plan in motion to get my headers, full exhaust, and tuning done (intake is done). However, I read that a lq4 swap can be done under $2000.
It's also my understanding, that me being a 99, I have a 4L65E and the vortec fuel pump (obviously) that works with the LQ4, in turn reducing the total cost.

If I am already $1000+ on basic bolt ons and a tune, wouldn't saving a small amount more and doing a 6.0 swap not only net me way more power and a better platform moving forward, but being power per dollar more efficient outright?

If that wasn't enough... I have a 12V 6BT Cummins at my father-in-laws. And I have read you CAN do a 6BT swap into K1500's, retaining the 1/2 IFS, by adding heavier springs a 1t torsion bars.

I could convince my wife to up my budget to $2000...

Talk me out of the swap? What am I missing?

 

[Wagonbacker9]

I would do the 6BT. And thats coming from an acnowledged LS1 fanboy. I don't know that upgrading the front suspension would be necessary. Is it that much heavier?

That said, LS swap vs modding a vortech is a no brainer for the LS.

Your fuel system will be sufficient for a factory LQ4, but I'd look at upgrading it eventually anyway. Trans can be made to work I think you need a special flex plate for the older bell housing though (don't quote me?). The LQ4 is an INFINITELY better engine.

 

[99'Subourbon]

I would do the 6BT. And thats coming from an acnowledged LS1 fanboy. I don't know that upgrading the front suspension would be necessary. Is it that much heavier?

That said, LS swap vs modding a vortech is a no brainer for the LS.

Your fuel system will be sufficient for a factory LQ4, but I'd look at upgrading it eventually anyway. Trans can be made to work I think you need a special flex plate for the older bell housing though (don't quote me?). The LQ4 is an INFINITELY better engine.

1400lbs with fluids and accessories, compared to our 600lbs~

Damnit though man! I know the 6BT would be absolutely insane. But boxing the frame, beefing up the front and rear diffs... I wouldn't be able to do that, would have to get a shop. Wonder if I could still keep it under $2K?

Is the assumption an LS swap under $2K accurate?

 

[Wagonbacker9]

LS swap under 2K means you rework your own harness (I've done it, its a pain but doable), you source a motor that likely needs work (example from powerblock was one that collapsed a lifter for <500) which is risky, and you probably use the bendy flex hoses for the radiator, and fabricate your own power center (relays etc) to power the new engine harness. If you want a "factory appearing" swap, don't want to crack into the motor, and want everything to bolt/plug in, you're gonna have to pay more. If you used a 5.3 or a 4.8 instead of a 6.0 you can put that money into some other stuff and save yourself some headaches... unless you have a line on an LQ4 for stupid cheap.

To give you an idea, I had everything I needed to do the swap from wiring to exhaust ready to go for just about $2200, but that included a cam upgrade, used stall, shaved heads, ARP head bolts, etc. and was based on a 5.3 that I bought complete from alt and intake to oil pan for $300 with cracked heads.

I pulled outa the swap and bought a tahoe for simplicity of loading children and dogs, sold all the swap parts, and still have the engine and trans as spares for my NBS tahoe.

Back on the 6BT option:
Beefing up the rear diff is stupid easy... 14bsf will bolt right up with a conversion joint depending on which driveshaft you have. Front is a whole other story, and if you're going that far I'd SAS it anyway... you'll already be doing a bunch of work on the frame and if you have that much more weight over the front all those wear parts will wear that much faster.

 

[polar]

The ls swap for under 2k is close but I think you may go over

 

[99'Subourbon]

I haven't sourced a LQ4 yet, but a quick Google of it shows 1,400~ on average for a complete engine, no tranny (not sure if that includes the PCM).
I am going to go to our local wreck yard this weekend and see what they got. This won't start to happen until September or October, if it does, so that would give me time to start sourcing parts.

Ideally, I would do that swap with a tune and exhaust at the same time.

6BT Option:
I don't know if I need to beef up the diffs, but I would assume the torque a 6bt is going to produce would destroy them.

 

[Chevy-Art]

Before you look too hard into doing the GenIII/IV swap, look at other options. You should look at doing the 0411 swap, or the 0411 and the coil per cylinder. With the 0411, you get better tuning capability. But it may come out to be the same price as doing the swap. You don't necessarily need to do a 6.0, you could also look at doing a 5.3. The 2 5.3's are the LM7 and L33. And there are others. I did the swap but I went from 5.7 TBI to 5.7 LS1. There are lots of options out there, and I am sure you can find good deals out there.

 

[99'Subourbon]

Before you look too hard into doing the GenIII/IV swap, look at other options. You should look at doing the 0411 swap, or the 0411 and the coil per cylinder. With the 0411, you get better tuning capability. But it may come out to be the same price as doing the swap. You don't necessarily need to do a 6.0, you could also look at doing a 5.3. The 2 5.3's are the LM7 and L33. And there are others. I did the swap but I went from 5.7 TBI to 5.7 LS1. There are lots of options out there, and I am sure you can find good deals out there.

Yeah, I think I would go with the 5.3, if I wasn't in a suburban. I mainly brought up the 6.0 and 6BT due to power and gas mileage, when compared directly to initial investment. The suburban barely moves the wheels under itself, let alone towing anything.

Would you say there are better options than the 6.0? Or simply it's not the only option available?

Edit: I guess I should say, are there better options for power and mpg, at or around my price range ($2000~)?

 

[polar]

Your only talking a little bit of difference between the 5.3 and 6.0. The 5.3s came in the suburbans. They will do just fine

 

[Chevy-Art]

There is also the 6.2, mega bucks. Also the 6.0 LQ9, also expensive. My friend has a 1994 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive suburban with an LQ4 6.0 and it runs really good.
Lots of good info here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Motors_small-block_engine