Does a 1997 Tahoe 4L60E have a temp sensor?

[upper_tanker]

Long story short...

I'm trying to get Torque Pro to show me the trans temp of my Tahoe via a bluetooth OBDII device. It shows it in the Dashcommand app, but not Torque Pro.

I read somewhere that it will not show due to me not having a trans temp sensor, but I'm wondering why it shows in Dashcommand.

For those wondering, I also drive a 97 lesabre and trying to go back and fourth with DC is a pain in the ass. I have to mess with the app for a minimum of 10 minutes every time that I switch vehicles. I figured I'd use one app for my car, and one for my Tahoe. I'm just wondering if the trans temp that DC shows is actually legit. It used to range from 140-175 before I added the 3rd trans cooler, and now it goes from 140-155 with the cooler, so it sounded right. I just wanted to ask here.

 

[df2x4]

I believe all the 4L60Es have an internal trans temp sensor... Your readings in DashCommand should be accurate.

I know there are some people here who have managed to get trans temp readings in Torque to work properly, but I never did. Granted I never spent that much time trying to figure it out. You need to add specific PIDs as the base app doesn't come with them.

 

[someotherguy]

I know there are some people here who have managed to get trans temp readings in Torque to work properly, but I never did. Granted I never spent that much time trying to figure it out. You need to add specific PIDs as the base app doesn't come with them.

The PID likely comes with Torque just hasn't been utilized. The trick is finding out which one it is. I looked under Pontiac/GM/Vauxhall/Opel and found 3 different GM Transmission Fluid Temp PID's in Torque, and there's also one at the bottom of the list that says Transmission Temp (not fluid) - whatever that means!

I jumped through a few hoops to get the trans temp reading in Torque for my 2006 Chrysler 300 SRT8 and it took using a PID set that was named something you wouldn't guess (Jeep 2012 and later was the set)...works great though. You have to add the PID and then add a display to your screen for it.

Richard

 

[upper_tanker]

I found this:

https://chevroletforum.com/forum/express-g-series-vans-30/elm-torque-thread-87881/

I'm going to try it after work to see if it works or not. I'm hoping it does, fumbling back and fourth with DC and TP is getting to be a pain in the ass.

 

[east302]

The manual says that there is one for 98, so I’d guess it was there for 97. It’s shown as a readable value in volts and degrees...presumably on a tech2 at least.

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[Ken K]

In GM's eSI for the 1997 Tahoe 4L60e, it shows the TFT sensor in the automatic transmission fluid pressure manual valve position switch which is the membrane type on the valve body.
The external case connector has up to 20 pins cavities available, but only 13 maybe used. Going by wire color may help the most as the VCM supplies it with 5 vdc and the sensor is grounded back though the VCM.

In the VCM connector C2 / 27 cavity is a YEL/BLK wire. It goes to the tranny's case in cavity "L" same color. The ground side returns from the sensor at the case through cavity "M" BLK wire, back to the VCM to C3 / 19 cavity.

If the wires are there, it has the circuit. The sensor resistance range is 3088-3942 / 68F and 159-198 / 212F.

If you have a device that plugs into the DLC and communicates to class2, it should see the transmission fluid temperature as long a the VCM is programmed to read it by VIN. There is no difference in the schematic between 4X2 or 4X4.

There are three codes with TFT circuit;
PO218 = Overheat, PO712 sensor circuit low, PO713 sensor circuit high.

It is a type "B" code which means if removed one or both of these wires at the transmission, you would have to drive the vehicle twice for more than 7 minutes. The enable criteria for each code, is good system voltage, key in run position, condition is present for 7 minutes.
The TFT codes are a result of: circuit range is above 4.92 volts, less than 0.2 volts, or greater than 275F.

I have seen video's of individuals who have installed a TFT gauge or companies that add them to late model dashes of IPC's.

Other than that, a TECH2 scan tool would be able to read the transmission fluid temperature, even if the plug&play device does not. If the device is new, I would contact the company and ask technical service as long as these color of wires are present in the location noted.

GM's eSI in 1997 started to include Engine / Transmission only and added more the next year as the service manuals and electrical diagnostic manuals where a set of paper only mailed to the dealer. I do not have a live version of GM eSI, only CD's. If changes where made after the disc where made, I do not know.

Hope this helps a little and I understood the question or post. I apologize if I did not understand.

 

[someotherguy]

I could experiment with the different PID's to see which one, if any, returns useful-looking data. My '06 SS has a trans temp gauge in the cluster from factory so I have a reference to compare to...though I may not be able to mess with it until Monday (day off.)

Richard

 

[upper_tanker]

I guess what I don't understand is how trans temp shows up in DC but not in TP. I tried to set a PID with the info that I posted on my last post, but it did not work either.

Also, when I left work at 11:30 on Saturday, I blew a trans cooler line off of the radiator. I'm not sure if I didn't tighten the hose clamps tight enough when I put the hose on the barb when I installed the 2nd aux cooler last fall, or if I didn't get the hose past the ridge on the barb. Regardless, I'm chalking it up as my fault. I just happened to have a gallon of ATF, a funnel, and a cheap ass tool kit (that I way overpaid for). I dumped the whole gallon in it, and luckily, it shifts and drives fine. I smelled the fluid when I got back to my dads shop, and it didn't smell burnt. I guess only time will tell if I did any permanent damage. If that damn app would have been working, I'd almost bet I'd have seen the temp start to spike and pull over before this happened. I could be wrong though.

Regardless, I suppose it's time to make the -6an swap and get rid of all of the stock POS cooler lines and my jerry-rigged rubber hoses and hose clamps.