I have the F44 on my '88. In looking it up for the OP I see why there is all the confusion. They used the code for over three decades and the criteria changed all along the way so F44 for a mid 70's isn't the same as a mid '80s and different from '88 and different again in '91 or '92 that I came...
Using incandescent sealed beams I didn't want to pull that kind of amperage through the neutral safety switch and the stock wiring. I grabbed an un-switched power lead out of the fuse box (fused) and installed a lighted toggle switch in the upper left edge of the removable panel under the...
I've had good results with Lucas FI cleaner and it's less expensive to boot !! Seafoam is a good product but something that is formulated to be added to gasoline or run in your oil to me isn't designed as the best product for either. I have a few vehicles so I actually get it in the gallon size...
That's something you should run by the guys at Hypertech customer service. http://www.hypertech-inc.com/support-contact-us.aspx
I have a chip out of my old Camaro and the applications are very specific. In that case it lists the one year and one engine in a Camaro or Firebird and nothing else.
+1 I'm with Richard.
I tried LMC and I couldn't find a plug in the number VIN decoder. They have a VIN decoder : http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cd/full.aspx?Page=10 but that's not going to help for what you want to know.
The relay socket unless it's melted and allowing wires or terminals to touch isn't going to be able to affect the relays operation. Is the headlight switch equipped with a headlight delay feature ??
Hello lunch_kart and welcome to GMT400. :welcome:
Nice looking body on that one.
For the cost of fuel injection hose (depending on how much you need) it's so much cheaper to go with metal and for a fuel line you can safely use compression fittings.
Depending on if you would only use them for back up lights, spots would be OK but you might want to consider floods. Floods are nicer if you end up needing the light for other things as you have a wider area lit up. I used to haul a lot of mulch and it was nice having the light in the evenings...
What have you done so far to check it out, fuses ? Pulled the motor and run power to it ? Taken a test light to the terminals to see if you have power from the resistor to the motor ?
Sounds like the bearings on the blower motor might be seizing up. It spins for a while and builds some heat and them starts to slow down from the friction. BUT, if that's the case you should be blowing a fuse for it to turn so slow you don't get any air out of the system. Best thing to do is...
Do you have a repair manual?
Did you at least get a wiring diagram?
Have you found or do you know where the coolant sensor is?
Do you have a voltmeter or at least a 12 volt test light?
You need to do some checking if you want anyone to help.
Find the coolant temperature sensor and see if it's hooked up. With the ignition on, ground the wire and see if the needle swings. If so it's a bad sensor.
Gas gauge. You'll need a manual to get a diagnostic tree to follow. Check the fuses it's the easiest and cheapest but from there you have to...