what's wrong with my door locks?

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mudrider420

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i know everytime i use the power locks on my cc, not all doors lock and unlock properly. sometimes they work, sometimes they lock halfway and i have to push them down, and other times wont work at all. i know they work off the actuator but is it 1 or does each door has their own? sometimes i'll hear a click on the floorboard area near the heater when i use the power locks. is there something there that activate the locks or is my truck getting possessed?
 

daddy_dandy

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There is a relay which runs about $50. It's located on a support under the dash near the gas pedal. It's a Potter and Brumfield VBA-2002. GM# 12065122 and has six wires going into it.

http://www.pswired.com/misc/pacaudio/syswire.pdf

1995-97 Chevrolet C/K Pickup Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information
Constant 12V+ Red Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Pink Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 3 Brown Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Orange Ignition Switch Harness (Heat/AC)
Tach White Coil
Brake Switch White Brake Switch
Trunk Pin n/a
Parking Lights Brown (+) Light Switch
Head Lamp Yellow (+) Light Switch
Hood Pin n/a
Factory Disarm n/a
Door Trigger Purple (-) 4 Pin Black Connector Driver's Kick Panel
Door Lock Light Blue Driver's Kick Panel w/Keyless Positive
Door Unlock White W/o Keyless Entry Reverse Polarity (5 Wire)
Horn Wire Black (-) Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Dark Blue, RF=Light Blue
Windows Down LF=Brown, RF=Tan


1998 Chevrolet C/K Pickup Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information
Constant 12V+ Red Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Pink Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 3 Brown Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Orange Ignition Switch Harness (Heat/AC)
Tach White Coil
Brake Switch White Brake Switch
Trunk Pin n/a
Parking Lights Brown (+) Light Switch
Head Lamp Yellow (+) Light Switch
Factory Disarm n/a
Door Trigger Purple (-) Either Pin Switch
Door Lock Light Blue Driver's Kick Panel w/Keyless Positive
Door Unlock White W/o Keyless Entry Reverse Polarity (5 Wire)
Horn Wire Black (-) Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Dark Blue, RF=Light Blue
Windows Down LF=Brown, RF=Tan


1999 Chevrolet C/K Pickup Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information
Constant 12V+ Red Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Pink Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 3 Brown Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Orange Ignition Switch Harness (Heat/AC)
Tach White V6 Coil, If V8 at Any Coil, 1 Cylinder Setting
Brake Switch White Brake Switch
Trunk Pin n/a
Parking Lights Light Blue (+) Light Switch
Head Lamp Yellow (+) Light Switch
Factory Disarm Light Green (-) Keyless Module
Door Trigger Tan/Light Blue (-) Keyless Module below Steering Column
Door Lock Light Blue (+) Keyless Entry Module below Steering Column
Door Unlock White (+) Positive Trigger
Driver's Lock Gray Fuse Panel
Driver's Unlock Tan Fuse Panel
Passenger Unlock Tan or White Fuse Panel
Horn Wire Black (-) Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Dark Blue, RF=Light Blue
Windows Down LF=Brown, RF=Tan
 

truckintim05

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There is one relay, but each door has their own actuator. They will start doing what you described when they are about to go bad. I'd say new actuators. If you hear the clicking coming from the relay, that just means its working.
 

BHBurban

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If it's 88-94, ti has reverse polarity doorlocks, and no relay. If it's '95 and up, it has positive trigger doorlocks with said relay.

Here's the lock relay...

You must be registered for see images attach


Check that you don't have broken/breaking wires in the door jamb boots
 

mudrider420

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ok i will check that. i noticed when i press the lock it halfway locks and the more i press it the less it works. after a few minutes it will be back to before. if it is the actuators, how hard is it to get to them for removal?
 

BHBurban

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The door lock actuators are mounted on the inner door behind the outside door handle , this is the best way I could get a pic of it. to access it, you have to remove the screws to the inner door.
You must be registered for see images attach
 

daddy_dandy

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Not hard but a bit time consuming. The window regulators have to be pulled back/taken off. So, in order to do that:

You need to first remove door panel:
Grab a plastic pry bar (or something short and flat, like a standard screwdriver). To remove the trim ring around the door handle/lock, there are four tabs you push in. It should release without too many problems.
Remove the tweeter and lock/window switches. IIRC, they pull forward then out. Or maybe they just pull straight up. Remove the window/lock switch and the mirror switch if applicable.
Use your hands or a plastic pry bar and remove the triangle piece on the top right driver side (top left on pass). Grab the top of it and pull it straight out.
Grab a phillips head screw driver and remove the two screws recessed in the panel. (what you use to shut the door. not the door handle)
Start at the top left of the panel and using your hands or plastic pry bar, carefully pull the panel outward. Work your way around until the panel is free.
Give the panel a slight push up and set it aside.

Removing/backing off the regulator:
There are a bunch of screws holding the regulator on. IIRC, they are 7mm and there's 1 larger one in the lower right side that is 10mm.
After those are taken out, you should be able to separate the regulator from the door enough to change the regulators. They have 3 or 4 screws holding them in to a bracket which is riveted into the regulator.

Installation is pretty much the reverse of removal.

Also, be careful with the door handle and lock rods behind the regulator. They bend easily and can become a PITA later.
 

webxfx

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ok i will check that. i noticed when i press the lock it halfway locks and the more i press it the less it works. after a few minutes it will be back to before. if it is the actuators, how hard is it to get to them for removal?

Did replacing the actuators help? cause mine is doing the same - wonder if its worth buying
 

AbramF_496

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hmmm my dads 99 burb has trouble locking too passenger and rear drivers ugh thinking of just disconnecting the up and down orange/red indicators and haveing it move more freely by clipping them off the lil clips that they snap into to keep alignment or whatever(plastic cylindrical runners), grease doesnt really help :/ but anyways dont wanna be fondling with it anymore sucks
 

Mr.B

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I have a 98 GMC Sierra pickup and my power locks just stopped working. I have checked all the fuses I could find and they all look good. Please help point me in the right direction. Thank you
 
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