What original or unique mods have you done - not the norm?

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someotherguy

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i don't know about unique.. but turned my old stereo delete pocket into a gauge housing for my air gauges and tach

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It's a good mod; I left my gauges sunk into the rear of the pocket (AMI GMP-333, the one with the nice lip at the front) so that I could still put stuff in it, like the stereo remote. Also, the sunken gauges kinda match the how the factory cluster is set back too, IMO. Just another option on this one.

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Richard
 

someotherguy

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I picked up a Hypertech Power Charger to complement the Ultimate TBI mods I did.
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I went through chopping out the heat riser flap too, then later discovered that there are some OEM units without it. I pulled this one off a '95 C2500 extended cab longbed work truck, 5.7/4L80E, no heat riser - slimy grimy in this pic, hadn't cleaned it up to install yet:

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Not really visible in this pic but of course I'm also running the base V6 style tube to the fender, no more silencer.

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Richard
 

someotherguy

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Complete 88-94 to 95-98 interior swap has been done on my 90. Everything works as factory, including HVAC, gauges, power windows and locks and steering column. Most folks seem to get started on these swaps and give up, or just talk about doing them.

I swapped the whole interior and driveline, too. Well, it's kind of a no-brainer when the original was a 6.5TD that was blown up, removed, and junked. Truck was a complete frame-off re-do, so just about no bolt was left unturned.

1994 3500HD ex-6.5TD/NV4500
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1994 3500HD now with 1996 Vortec 7.4/NV4500, and full interior swap, A/C working and all. :) Including little details like welding in the passenger A-pillar grab handle bracket.
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Many here have followed the build and know these pics are of the same truck, so I'll spare everyone me proving it. ;)

Richard
 

someotherguy

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4L60e to 4L80e swap. It might be more common-place in the online forum world, but everyone in my city that I talked to had never seen it done. I'll have some pics in my thread today. Just got it running right yesterday.

The Whipple supercharger is somewhat unique (in a world obsessed with LS Swaps), and the Edelbrock MPFI setup I have sitting here is also not common.

Neither is the 14-bolt SF axle from a 454ss. Not many 2wd trucks running around with that rear diff.
4L80E is nice; I wouldn't mind having a 4L80E in my '94, but when the 4L60E blew up at 158K I had it swapped with a rebuild from the only builder in this entire world that I truly trust. Guy's been doing transmissions for me since 1988, starting with my second car, a '69 Chevelle ex-strip car that had a TH400 swapped in. Anyway he built my 4L60E with the good stuff and his warranty is top-notch, so I've got no worries. I'm sure if I keep the truck long enough I'll blow it up again, but...oh well!

454SS axle is nice too. Problem with them is sourcing them for the most part. That's why I converted my C2500LD 9.5" 14 bolt to 5 lug; had a machine shop redrill the axles and drums. Bigger brakes than a 454SS 14 bolt, but that's simply because my truck is an extended cab. Had I not already settled on some 5 lug wheels I wanted to run, I'd have simply left the truck 6 lug.

Wish I had a Whipple. :( Missed a couple decent deals on full kits that coincidentally happened to have been sourced from 1994 5.7 TBI engines; would have been perfect. I snoozed and lozed.

Richard
 

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dodge tow mirrors... not the first, got the idea from BJ but definitely not a very common mod. Not around here anyways
 

Frank Enstein

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I picked up a Hypertech Power Charger to complement the Ultimate TBI mods I did.


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Then I got to looking at my air cleaner and realized that it wasnt going to work like it was. The stock TBI air cleaner has a heat riser valve in the snorkle. I have yet to see it hooked up to a heat source. So, by and large, that valve remains closed on most TBI trucks. That means that youre attempting to breathe through a hole that is maybe 1 1/4" in diameter-and its all engine compartment air. So that tube going over the the fender, supposedly supplying cold air, isnt most of the time. This is looking into the end of the snorkle.


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The other thing I noticed was that the Power Charger had quite a large opening at the top, whereas my air cleaner had a relatively small opening at the bottom. So, with the two problems mentioned above, I got out my tin snips, and grinder. First thing I did is make the hole in the bottom bigger.


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Then I drilled out the rivets on the heat riser and removed it, took the blade out of the snorkle and cut off all the linkage and stuff, cut off the stove pipe and ground it all smooth.


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Then I took the blade and flattened it a bit and laid it over the hole left buy the removal of the heat riser.


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It fit just fine so I drilled the two holes that matched the rivet holes already there, and drilled one new one and riveted it to the air claeaner.


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Then I painted it all up and let it dry.


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No more hot air diluting my intake charge, and I'm getting full flow from my fenderwell.


The Hot air tube is closed by intake vacuum when the air temp is under 180 degrees and opens and closes to keep it the same temp all the time. The advantage is threefold. 1) The tune is much easier because you don't have different temps and 2) is prevents throttle body icing on 40 ish degree foggy mornings and 3) fuel economy/engine life is maximized due to better atomization of the fuel.
On the other side when you are at heavy throttle and need full air density there is no manifold vacuum to hold the flap shut. Add a second snorkel with a flap and feed that cold air with that power charger and you will see a big improvement.
 
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