Vortec 454 trouble....

[Jermaine Smith]

My truck is a 97 C2500. Months back I replaced my injectors with five o motorsports injectors along with a new fuel pressure regulater. I also put a new fuel filter on the truck.

Tuesday, I was driving the truck at 45 mph or so and the just cut off. I did the classic screwdriver test. I'm not getting no fire to the plugs. However I'm getting fire going to the coil.

All the fuses I can see threw looks great as well.

So far this week I've replaced the following parts but with no luck. Any help appreciated.

New ignition coil
New spark plugs
New distributor
New ignition wires
New cam position sensor
New crank sensor
New ignition module

Anyone have any advice? I'm at a dead-end road and I'm lost.

 

[yevgenievich]

Does the distributor rotor turn? If coil has fire and rotor turning, plugs have to get fire too

 

[Supercharged111]

Fire to the coil but not the plugs. . . is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?

 

[R422b]

Fire to the coil but not the plugs. . . is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?

[emoji106][emoji16]

Talking about GMT400s using Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - Supercharged111

 

[Jermaine Smith]

Does the distributor rotor turn? If coil has fire and rotor turning, plugs have to get fire too

Can I take the distributor cap off and see if the rotor turns ?

 

[Erik the Awful]

Yes. You'll need a helper to turn the key while you observe. I'd also unplug the distributor to keep from zapping anything nearby.

Did you put thermal paste under the ignition module?

 

[Jermaine Smith]

Yes. You'll need a helper to turn the key while you observe. I'd also unplug the distributor to keep from zapping anything nearby.

Did you put thermal paste under the ignition module?

I never heard of thermal paste. My brother says the rotor is spinning.

 

[Schurkey]

I'm not getting no fire to the plugs. However I'm getting fire going to the coil.

Can you explain what that actually means?

What "fire" are you talking about? Do you mean "spark"?

Spark does not "go to" the ignition coil.

All the fuses I can see threw looks great as well.

So far this week I've replaced the following parts but with no luck. Any help appreciated.

New ignition coil
New spark plugs
New distributor
New ignition wires
New cam position sensor
New crank sensor
New ignition module

Anyone have any advice? I'm at a dead-end road and I'm lost.

Do you have the skill to replace those parts correctly? In particular, did you replace the distributor so that the spark goes to the correct cylinder; and so that the distributor sensor waveform aligns with the crank sensor waveform?

I never heard of thermal paste.

It comes with the ignition module. A little packet of "grease".

 

[Super_chevy]

I’m willing to bet your ignition timing is off, from messing with the distributor cap. If you have an extra cap drill a hole in front of the 5 cylinder igniter. Put the cap on and hook everything back up. Turn the truck over you will be able to see the spark jumping from the rotor to the cylinder 5 contact and you can turn the distributor until the spark is straight up and down.

 

[alpinecrick]

You say the truck just quit while driving the truck after recently replacing the spider (with a brand I’ve never heard of).

Check the big electrical connector at the spider, maybe it has come loose.

You “replaced the distributor”. Does this mean the actual distributor or does it mean the cap and rotor?

Is the ignition control module new also?

The times I have seen the TBIs and Vortecs suddenly quit it was most often the ignition control module.