89obsSB
I'm Awesome
Sorry I misread. I thought you were talking about the transmission pan.
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Oh boy I have a different tool for that. Dude sold me his trans flush machine. You connect it to the cooler lines and it pumps out the old fluid while pumping in fresh fluid. I haven't been brave enough to try it yet.Sorry I misread. I thought you were talking about the transmission pan.
We have 3 different transmission flush machines at work. I use them probably everyday. The one has dipstick mode. But all the new transmissions no longer have dipsticks. So usually dipstick mode is for 16 and older Silverado’s unless equipped with an 8 speed.Oh boy I have a different tool for that. Dude sold me his trans flush machine. You connect it to the cooler lines and it pumps out the old fluid while pumping in fresh fluid. I haven't been brave enough to try it yet.
This one is a MotorVac TransTech II, also has a Snap-On model number on it. Dude still had it in the original box. I had a victim, er volunteer lined up to test it on but he is out of the picture for now.We have 3 different transmission flush machines at work. I use them probably everyday. The one has dipstick mode. But all the new transmissions no longer have dipsticks. So usually dipstick mode is for 16 and older Silverado’s unless equipped with an 8 speed.
I prefer to drop pan clean it out. Top the fluid off and then flush it. If the crossover pipe is not in the way anyways.This one is a MotorVac TransTech II, also has a Snap-On model number on it. Dude still had it in the original box. I had a victim, er volunteer lined up to test it on but he is out of the picture for now.
I would have to agree that not all the oil drains out the bottom because of the bung. But I also think that last 1/2 cup is not going to pollute the new oil enough to make a difference. I like to leave the plug out for a t least a 1/2 hour to let the oil draining down from the top to spill out too.I do plan to replace the pan at some point, but I believe it requires dropping the front axle.
As for draining vs suction, I asked the guy who gave it to me the same question. He owned a service shop for years and has a lot of professional tools after selling the business. His conention is that you actually get more fluid from suction than from draining. He says most pans have a lip around the drain to support the plug threads, which means a fair amount of fluid is always left behind. Suction on the other hand can get nearly everything. This jives with what a Cashman mechanic told me years ago.
When I used the pump on my daughter's car, I wasn't convinced it had pulled all the fluid. I crawled underneath and I could hear the sucking sound like if you were sucking the last of a drink through a straw. I removed the drainplug and nothing came out.
Is that European high flow coupling a push to connect style?You must be registered for see images attach
Looks like "European High Flow" to me. Question is "which size?"
The usual 1/4" is Milton "V" or equivalent. Bigger than that, I don't know. Easily researched, though. (I'm not sure the Euro High Flow comes in any other size but 1/4" body.)
Photos 1 and 2: Milton "letter" series or equivalent, in the common 1/4" plug series.
V = Euro high flow. Note huge hole compared to the others.
M = Industrial Interchange. Common as dirt.
T = Tru-Flate style
L = Lincoln style
There are some other designs, (Aro, for example) I'm too lazy to re-pose the picture with 'em.
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For the record, air tools work way better when connected with the "European High Flow" couplers and plugs, assuming there's sufficient air compressor to maintain pressure. I converted my shop to the High-Flow couplers a few years ago. The High-Flow couplers in a 1/4" body have approximately the same passage size as the ordinary couplers in 3/8 body size.
Photos 3, 4. Milton V 1/4" high-flow compared to a couple of 3/8" body coupler plugs.
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Yes. Pretty sure it was push-to-connect in the matching Milton coupler body; but took a REALLY HARD push to do it.Is that European high flow coupling a push to connect style?