Type II steering conversion

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rook

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I've got a '95 TBI 454. It looks like there is bracketry, and GM high flow pumps out there, just wondering what folks have come across if they've done this before. Stupid little things like the belt being out of alignment, or the flow being wrong for the hydroboost, or misc connections not mating up are probably expected, just wanting to know where the particular pain points are. Seems like the steering gear will take it, but not sure yet.

My pump is starting to whine, leak a bit of fluid, so if I'm going to have to put any time and money into it I might as well upgrade. As with most of the work I've done so far, i.e. Water pump (Edelbrock Victor series), alt (DC Engineering), seats (leather Oldsmobile conversion), red top battery, stereo, etc.

I'm wanting all systems completely sorted out before I start working on TBI performance.
 

sewlow

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Remove the 'EVO' B.S. Get rid of it right off the back of the pump, then you have to change the high-pressure line for a pre-EVO style.
If you just disconnect the electrical connections, either @ the pump or @ the column, the pump remains in boost mode. Sure, by doing that it gets rid of that feeling of being on ice for a split second, which is what happens when the EVO goes south, but because of the pump being in constant boost, sooner or later that EVO B.S. is gonna blow up & start puking fluid as fast as you can pour it in.
Was this the type of info you were wanting?
 

polar

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Ask Al for the part numbers for the evo delete! I think he knows them by heart since his fiasco of deleting it
 

rook

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I was wondering if anyone just tossed the Saginaw pump, and went Type II. But, it looks like the EVO problem has much more written about it, probably the source of many problems.

Seems like a complete mess after some reading of EVO threads. A million people have done a million different things.

Al - Send help! (Although I'm new here, don't know you)
 

Blue95

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YA you don't have the EVO stuff and shouldn't you already have hydroboost being a 454 and 2500?

Sounds like you need a rebuild
 

sewlow

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Sorry, but no part numbers. Did this with wrecking yard parts.
This is not a fun job!

Here's the POS that causes the probs.

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You will need a specific type of puller to get the pulley off. I got mine for $30.00, but I had to search. Most of them are in the $60.00-$100.00 range!
Remove the belt. Then, the pulley has to come off. Had to use an impact with the puller, 'cause the pulley just spun with a 1/2" ratchet. Once that is off, then you can start removing the bracket to engine bolts, & the other bolts that hold the pump to it. IIRC, there's 11 or 13 of them (!). The PITA ones are one under the exhaust manifold, & one down by the H2o pump. When the bracket is unbolted, then remove the lines from the pump. Make sure that you have a bucket underneath when you undo the lines.
When the pump is outa the truck, you have to remove the 'C' clip on that EVO. This is so that you can get a socket on the nut underneath that part that'll come off once that clip is removed.

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There's a puck & spring inside there. Don't loose that.

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I got the high pressure line from the wreckers, but, I forgot to get this part. Doh!

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This is why.

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What it looks like installed.

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This is the pre-EVO line installed. It has an extra 180* bend to get around the back of the pump that the EVO line doesn't have.

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Now, once that's all done, time for the install.
Mount the pump, loosely, to the bracket.
Attach that H.P. line. Look back at the pic with it installed. It HAS to be installed in that position. Make sure that it's tight.
Put the pump/bracket assembly in position in the truck & get a couple of bolts in to hold it in position. Do not tighten them up!
The reason for that is because now the H.P line has to attached to steering box, & if the bracket/pump has been tightened to the engine, you will NOT be able to get that line threaded into the box. Leaving the pump/bracket loose will allow you to move it around to get that line threaded.
That bottom hook that you can see in the last pic is a problem. Put the bolt in first, then get the hook on the pump sitting on it. Don't tighten it up until all the other bolts are in, otherwise, as you tighten it up, it'll want to walk up & off that bolt.
Get all the other bolts in & tight, then tighten the one with the hook.
When all is mounted & bolted, then you can re-install the pulley. Another PITA!!! I had to use a long flat screwdriver wedged under something on the block and over top of the pulley wheel. As you tighten, it'll keep spitting out the screwdriver. And, you can't put a whole lotta pressure on that wheel, 'cause it's aluminum & can be tweaked fairly easily. Keep hammering away with the impact until the pulley lines up with the others. I used a ruler, but any straight edge that fits in there will work.
Fill the pump & put the cap on.
Start the truck & check for leaks.
Now you have to burp the pump. While the truck is idling, turn the wheel slowly from left to right, but don't hold it against the stops. Do this at least 10X. The more the better.
No leaks? The fluid is maintaining it's level? Go for a drive. Recheck the pump's fluid level. Make sure not to overfill it.
Like I said, this is NOT a fun job! Take your time. This took me about 4 hours to do. But, I didn't have a clue as to what I was getting into. Probably had it apart & back together 4 or 5X till I got the bolt up procedure right.
 
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