Torsion turns, keys and Rough Country 2-3" lift

[Swims350]

yea glad you're happy with it but man for that price you could have had a real lift.

The only thing that kit does is move down the front diff. to improve cv angles, new upper control arms for better angle there but still nothing for lower balljoints and nothing for tie rod ends.

for your original post yea if you're gonna waste the money on the kit might as well use their keys. The thing with those compared to stock is this...

stock keys get you to the droop stops, new control arms in the kit may clear those stops aloowing you to crank much further or maybe just a little bit I'm not sure. If that is the case then you would max out the stockers and not be touching the droop stop, but with the rcx keys you could crank and have it touch the droop possibly if you wanted. All just guesses that's it.

I would have just cranked, rear block or add a leaf, body lift, and had about the same amount of coin in it but with more lift.

I strongly fought myself to buy that same lift, but thought this...

if I'm already cranked in front(and I am) and I buy this expensive kit and I can't get another 2-3 inches OVER what I already have, then why buy it???

If I knew for sure it'd give me 2-3 more inches over what I have I'd buy it for sure, just because it's a bit cheaper then a full 4-6 kit.

then again body lift is cheaper then them all and I don't have the cash to buy it LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Rusty Silence]

I don't get why you'd use a shock extension, instead of the correct length shock. Lose/lose situation...

Regardless, if that cost you $750.... I'm sorry to say, this cost me about $250:

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Blocks, shocks, and a light crank. Cost woulda been lower but I did a U-bolt flip as well.

So I paid $150 more than you for better CV and upper balljoint angles and maybe less tire wear plus I don't max out the suspension on every big bump and my frame isn't hanging down really far under my truck, I think I did pretty good. The extra $350 was to have someone else do the work for me. The shock re-locators aren't to make up for shock length, they are to keep them from hitting the bump stops. It drives a lot better than a t-bar crank. I wouldn't have gone with blocks in the rear anyways, like I said I was going to be adding leaves to my packs because I haul and tow.

I've cranked the bars on 3 of my GMT400s so far and didn't like the ride or the way the trucks drove after. I've done it your way in the past and I'm glad I went with the lift I did this time. It saved me hundreds over a bigger kit when all I wanted was 3". I know this kit isn't for everyone or even most but it did what I wanted it to.

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My 92 was stock.

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My 95 with a 3" body lift.

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Of course by I could hide the frame by taking a pic from a different angle..

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My 97 with cranked bars and 3/4 ton leaves. I hated the way it drove after I cranked the bars. Truck had around 130k miles and the bars weren't all worn out yet which would've given a different ride.

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This is my 99 1 ton. I cranked the bars for the plow but am getting ready to de-crank them some. It has 190k miles on it so cranking the bars actually helped the ride but didn't give me as much lift as good bars would've.

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This truck is a 96 and has 121,000 miles and the bars weren't sagging yet.

 

[Swims350]

sorry but torsion bar cranking is torsion bar cranking. The only way your ride aint the same as torsion bar cranking is if before you hit the frame with them cranked and now you do not, the ride is gonna be stiffer no matter what you still cranked them to get the lift.

The shocks brackets ARE for making up for the lift, shocks don't hit the bump stops, they would over extend. That 2 inches makes up for them being short, sorry but that's the way I see it for sure.

now on a side note, good looking trucks, love them boggers in the back need pics of them on he truck LOL.

 

[Rusty Silence]

sorry but torsion bar cranking is torsion bar cranking. The only way your ride aint the same as torsion bar cranking is if before you hit the frame with them cranked and now you do not, the ride is gonna be stiffer no matter what you still cranked them to get the lift.

The shocks brackets ARE for making up for the lift, shocks don't hit the bump stops, they would over extend. That 2 inches makes up for them being short, sorry but that's the way I see it for sure.

now on a side note, good looking trucks, love them boggers in the back need pics of them on he truck LOL.

Right I agree with what you said about the stiffness of the ride. I still disagree about the shock brackets though because it looks to me like they wouldn't bolt into the original holes now. Here is a pic of what I'm talking about. Plus why would I need longer shocks on an IFS if all I did was crank the bars using up some of the factory suspension travel? I'm sure they come with long enough shocks from GM to allow for full suspension droop.

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Thanks for the compliments on the trucks I wanted to put those boggers under that truck so bad but the tires were so wide 35x14.50 I didn't think I could afford to do it with the rims they were on.

 

[Rusty Silence]

Or are you saying the shocks they send with the kit are shorter than the factory shocks? I guess it doesn't really matter since the brackets don't rub or hurt anything.

 

[Swims350]

no I was saying stock shocks were too short but I can see your point it does look as if it pushed them outward some to clear.

I figured even stockers maxxed would fully extend, since I don't think gm intened on the bars being maxxed and driving.

good pics, nice to see more pics and info on that kit as well.

I wished you had measurements though of that truck before this lift and after and then even better still some with the stock keys cranked, compared to this kit afterwards.

 

[Rusty Silence]

no I was saying stock shocks were too short but I can see your point it does look as if it pushed them outward some to clear.

I figured even stockers maxxed would fully extend, since I don't think gm intened on the bars being maxxed and driving.

good pics, nice to see more pics and info on that kit as well.

I wished you had measurements though of that truck before this lift and after and then even better still some with the stock keys cranked, compared to this kit afterwards.

Yeah that would've been a good idea, I wish I would have thought of that. I do have a pic that I took before I took it to the shop to be lifted.

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Before

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After

 

[Wstrnsky]

Whats the measurement from the bottom of the wheel well (above tire) to the middle of the tire (axle) both front and back ?

 

[Swims350]

better measure would be from the ground to the wheel arch front and back and then what tire size is on it or how tall the tires stand as is.

 

[Rusty Silence]

Whats the measurement from the bottom of the wheel well (above tire) to the middle of the tire (axle) both front and back ?

Front: 24 5/8" Rear: 25"

better measure would be from the ground to the wheel arch front and back and then what tire size is on it or how tall the tires stand as is.

Front: 38 1/2" Rear: 39 1/4"

The tires are 32x11.50R15 but they only measure 29 1/2" tall.